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  1. #1
    Registered Users eagleeye299's Avatar
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    Default Changing Exhaust

    The two bolts that hold the stock pipe to the mid pipe, are they reverse threaded? having a hell of a time getting them off.


    2016 F3 Limited Triple Black

  2. #2
    Registered Users quickster47's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eagleeye299 View Post
    The two bolts that hold the stock pipe to the mid pipe, are they reverse threaded? having a hell of a time getting them off.
    If you are referencing the two with the small hex, no, they are not left hand threads but they are one royal PITA to remove.

    They take lots of TLC and them maybe an application of some serious vise grips to get them finally off. One of mine was pretty easy bu the other one, well, let me say I finally did get it off but not in one piece. And when I changed out my muffler my bike was new with only 147 miles on it.

    Carl
    2012 White RT Limited and 2013 Yellow ST-S Think 3 .i.


  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor Motorcycledave's Avatar
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    Default not on mine

    Righty Tighty & Lefty Loosey

    Quote Originally Posted by eagleeye299 View Post
    The two bolts that hold the stock pipe to the mid pipe, are they reverse threaded? having a hell of a time getting them off.

  4. #4
    Registered Users eagleeye299's Avatar
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    Default

    Tomorrow I'll just cut them off.


    2016 F3 Limited Triple Black

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default No..!!

    regular but if you have WD40 or liquid wrench it will help. Those get heat and are very dry. If you can back it out some oil it and drive it back in to get the threads lubed up.. Good luck..!!
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  6. #6
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    I was VERY lucky; mine came loose without a hitch!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Active Member Colin's Avatar
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    Grinderwas a quick fix lol. One came off easy and the other wasn't so easy. Thanks to your comments here I made sure I had suitable replacements before starting the job of attaching my Akrapovic. Which, by the way, without the baffles has a real nice Deep Tone
    We now have His and Hers Spyders.
    Current Spyder, 2015 F3 Steel Black, Passenger Backrest, Blue Ridge Screen with Xcreen Extention, Akrapovic Muffler, Attitude Handlebars, Blades front rims, RT Swaybar,
    Her Spyder 2011 Magnesium RSS Sportrack and Backrest, Comfort Seat, Grip Puppies, 3.5 inch Riser Bars, Wespyd Signature Swaybar. Hindle Muffler, Godiva Screen, Hiway Pegs Can Am Panniers

    Previous Spyders
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    2015 F3 , Black with Blue Graphics

  8. #8
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    Do you have any way to get us a video (with sound)?
    We'd love to hear the results!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
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    Default Exhaust bolts

    When you run upon tight bolts like you are talking about I always spray WD 40 and them try to tighten them just so you can move them a little bit. Keep tightening them and loosen them. This will crack the rust under the nuts. It always worked for me.

  10. #10
    Senior MOMENTS Member MrLooney's Avatar
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    Default Frozen Nuts / Bolts

    Quote Originally Posted by arris View Post
    When you run upon tight bolts like you are talking about I always spray WD 40 and them try to tighten them just so you can move them a little bit. Keep tightening them and loosen them. This will crack the rust under the nuts. It always worked for me.


    + 1

    By tightening the nut / bolt Jar lid first = this is how you break the seal. Examples on pickles, catsup, Mayo . . . . . . . .
    If it Feels Good, Do It !!


    Too Much Is Just Enough !
    2011 RS~S Pure Magnesium / Black ~M~

  11. #11
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    I always say, "Give me a wrench with a long-enough handle, and I can break any bolt that I'm most likely not going to be able to find a replacement for!"
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  12. #12
    Active Member Plyrod38's Avatar
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    I used a die grinder with a cutting wheel to get my bolts off. I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of stainless bolts with locking nuts to re-install the original muffler if I ever need to. The original bolts were like butter and both heads stripped out instantly.
    2012 RT LTD Lava Bronze, Ultimate seat, backrests and fuel door. Two Brothers Titanamium. Laser Alignment, Seals Floorboards. BajaRon Sway Bar and links, Spyderpops blockoff, Grilles, Missing Belt Guard, Bumpskid, Gold Wing Windshield Vent, Kewlmetal Helmet Locks, Rumbling Pride Flag Holders, Cup holders, Signal LED's on mirrors, Baker Built belt stabilizer, gremlin bell, Bad Boy air horn, TricLed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th taillights and fender LED strips. RT-622 trailer, ........More to come.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by arris View Post
    When you run upon tight bolts like you are talking about I always spray WD 40 and them try to tighten them just so you can move them a little bit. Keep tightening them and loosen them. This will crack the rust under the nuts. It always worked for me.
    Also......If you have the room, hammer taps to break the rust.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member DriftersWay's Avatar
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    I use WD-40 and an impact gun set to low and wok the setting up till it comes off. The vibrations suck the WD-40 right into the threads.
    2022 F3 Limited , Monolith Black / Dark

  15. #15
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    im not sure about the other years but i just replaced mine and the reason it was so hard to get off is there are real strong springs on the back of the bolt pushing agenset the nut so it was hard to turn all the way off then the springs fell out and the nut was off.and i mean tough spring.

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