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Stater and HID lights
Hi guys
wanted to ask you in regards to the HID lights . After i sent them u on my Spyder GS my battery started loosing power. took it in and they said my stater needs upgrading as they is not enough juice to charge my battery . They recommended i buy the RT stater as it has more power.
They want to charge me 1200 dollars for the stater , the flywheel and the stater cap . WTH! its their own HID product and i have to pay for it to work properly?
any ideas folks
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Very Active Member
hid
Originally Posted by MMagic
Hi guys
wanted to ask you in regards to the HID lights . After i sent them u on my Spyder GS my battery started loosing power. took it in and they said my stater needs upgrading as they is not enough juice to charge my battery . They recommended i buy the RT stater as it has more power.
They want to charge me 1200 dollars for the stater , the flywheel and the stater cap . WTH! its their own HID product and i have to pay for it to work properly?
any ideas folks
tell them you want your money back. if they sell them for the bike than they should work
NO BIKE AT THIS TIME
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Very Active Member
Something is amiss..!!
I don't think the hid lighting has much to do with your stater unless you have a mess of other electrical add ons. If they suggest the RT stater you must have a heavy load. Check with ebay, amazon, cheapparts.com for staters. Replacing it is not that involved check around for labor rates..good luck..!!
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Motorbike Professor
Your dealer has made a misdiagnosis...or at least a mistaken correlation. Except at the moment of starting, HIDs generally take less juice than the OEM lights. Your problems are probably coincidental. Your charging system and your battery need to be tested. You can do these tests yourself, after a fashion. Before testing, check that the battery connections, at the battery, not the jump start terminals, are free of oxidation/corrosion and are tight. Poor battery connections prevent proper charging.
Charging System:
The system should read 13-14 volts with the engine running at 4000 rpm. If not, have the charging system thoroughly tested by a dealer. Note that low rpm operation can be ineffective in recharging the battery with a large accessory load.
Battery ability to take a charge:
If the charging system checks out, charge the battery on a maintainer (if possible) or by taking a long ride. A good battery should read 13 or more volts immediately after fully charging. If it reads less than 12.7, it needs to be replaced.
Battery ability to hold a charge:
After charging, let the battery sit off the charger for several hours to overnight. It should read 12.7 volts or higher in the morning. If less, charge it again and disconnect it overnight, then test again. If it is OK then, parasitic losses in the electrical system are pulling it down, such as from continuously powered accessories or component faullts. If it is still low after sitting disconnected, the battery needs to be replaced.
Battery load test:
A crude load test can be run by holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, then taking a reading while cranking. It should read 10.0 volts or greater. If less, replace the battery or have a dealer confirm with a proper load test.
I suspect you have a bad battery or connections if you are not chronically running at low (below 4000) rpm.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Your dealer has made a misdiagnosis...or at least a mistaken correlation. Except at the moment of starting, HIDs generally take less juice than the OEM lights. Your problems are probably coincidental. Your charging system and your battery need to be tested. You can do these tests yourself, after a fashion. Before testing, check that the battery connections, at the battery, not the jump start terminals, are free of oxidation/corrosion and are tight. Poor battery connections prevent proper charging.
Charging System:
The system should read 13-14 volts with the engine running at 4000 rpm. If not, have the charging system thoroughly tested by a dealer. Note that low rpm operation can be ineffective in recharging the battery with a large accessory load.
Battery ability to take a charge:
If the charging system checks out, charge the battery on a maintainer (if possible) or by taking a long ride. A good battery should read 13 or more volts immediately after fully charging. If it reads less than 12.7, it needs to be replaced.
Battery ability to hold a charge:
After charging, let the battery sit off the charger for several hours to overnight. It should read 12.7 volts or higher in the morning. If less, charge it again and disconnect it overnight, then test again. If it is OK then, parasitic losses in the electrical system are pulling it down, such as from continuously powered accessories or component faullts. If it is still low after sitting disconnected, the battery needs to be replaced.
Battery load test:
A crude load test can be run by holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, then taking a reading while cranking. It should read 10.0 volts or greater. If less, replace the battery or have a dealer confirm with a proper load test.
I suspect you have a bad battery or connections if you are not chronically running at low (below 4000) rpm.
Thanks a bunch guys and gals i will follow the test suggested this weekend
although its a brand new battery from April of this year what type of batteries do you guys recommend .
currently my bike has no other power accessories. other then the fog lights and the HIDs (BRP brand the ones for the spyder)
i was reading somewhere that the ballasts can cause a drain if they are interfering with each other ( too Close to each other) and to mount them on the plastic not the metal frame any thoughts on that?
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Motorbike Professor
With a brand new battery, check your battery connections first, for sure...most common cause of failure. Also check that the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under the seat on a 2008-2012) is tight.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Just wanted to chime in: Had a 2008 GS which I had the dealer install the BRP factory HID's on. There were no issues about battery losing power or stator needing to be replaced. When I did the install, heck, RT's were still two years away.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Very Active Member
The hid lights draw less power then the normal halogen bulbs.
Your stator may have issues they can short and not charge but your headlights should not have done it.
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Very Active Member
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Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Azbizzle03
Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
Be careful about posting on old threads. This one is 6 years old and the OP hasn't been here since. Sometimes it is OK to bring up an old thread if you need info that anyone can provide about the original topic and don't have to have a response from the original posters.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
And when you use a touch screen to navigate, you need to be aware of where you touch the screen......or you may like an old post. And you can't undo it!
On the road again...........and forever young!
2013 RT-S SE 5
Yesterday is a cancelled check.
Tomorrow is a promissory note.
Today is cash.......spend it wisely.
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