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Active Member
Another Different Heat Problem
Today I decides to check the brake cyl. on my 2013 RT and this is what I found in the same area.
rSAM_0480.jpgrSAM_0483.jpgrSAM_0484.jpgrSAM_0500.jpg
These wires go to the brake light switch and low pressure switch on the brake cyl. If you notice in the first picture the wire was ran on the wrong side of the frame and was exposed directly to the exhaust.
Here it is after I repaired it with glass cloth tape.
rSAM_0506.jpg
My brake cyl. did show some sign of heat damage.
Hope this helps someone.
We don't know what we don't know...
2013 RT Limited
2012 RT-622 Trailer
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Registered Users
WOW... The ship is sinking fast!!!hahahaha
2013 RSS
Grip Puppies, Calsci Tinted Shorty windshield, Garage remote mod
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...in the pink (Girls On Spyders)
I have wrapped my brake cable wires also....just to be safe......the heat issues need addressing
#IamARyder #RideASpyder #CanAmSpyder
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Good catch!
Will those zip-ties be able to take the heat?
Hopefully, they are better quality than the ones that were on it and they were still holding.
We don't know what we don't know...
2013 RT Limited
2012 RT-622 Trailer
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Active Member
Hot wires
I have a little bit of electronic experience under my belt. I noticed that the exposed copper wires in the fourth photo look quite oxidized. I would highly urge you to get the entire harness replaced under warranty. High heat, like that from the exhaust header, will tend to harden the copper wires, making them seem brittle. Also, in the presence of oxygen, a layer of oxidation will build up and interfere with electrical signals going to/from Nanny. Those wires will break much sooner than the others on your bike causing you all kinds of grief, most likely.
2010 Full Moon Silver RS SE5
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Very Active Member
I see the front end of the parking brake cable is there, too . . . I wonder if the heat there is related to the issue I developed on Sunday, where my electronic parking brake switch will not release my brake . . . I have to physically pull on the lever at the rear wheel to get the cable to release . . . I have an appointment with the dealer on the 17th . . . the first day they had an opening. I hope the NTHSA gets the recall out by then so I can get it all resolved in one visit! Web Runner, you should go to the NHTSA web site and file a complaint . . . send them those photos!
"Topper" is my Pearl White 2013 RT-LTD
Professional Retiree - liked it so much when I retired from the USAF, that I started another career so I could do it again!
Happy to be a member of the Maryland Spyder Web - find us at
http://www.meetup.com/MarylandSpyderWeb/
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Hayfield
I see the front end of the parking brake cable is there, too . . . I wonder if the heat there is related to the issue I developed on Sunday, where my electronic parking brake switch will not release my brake . . . I have to physically pull on the lever at the rear wheel to get the cable to release . . . I have an appointment with the dealer on the 17th . . . the first day they had an opening. I hope the NTHSA gets the recall out by then so I can get it all resolved in one visit! Web Runner, you should go to the NHTSA web site and file a complaint . . . send them those photos!
It's CruiseRT's bike.
2010 Full Moon Silver RS SE5
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Very Active Member
Good catch..!!
do agree that the wires should be addressed. If dealer/brp is not doing it at least splice a sub harness in that area. Could make it longer and re-route it altogether. Jmo...your good for now, nice clean up...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Heat tape
Something for 2013 owners to consider when doing a DIY Patch or just for safety repair. When I was a young commercial refrigeration technician we did a lot of grille work for the local McDonalds franchise owner since he owned our company also. We could buy a fabric heat resistant tape to use when making repairs on the big electric grilles. Or where heat was involved.
Try a good appliance repair parts establishment.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Web Runner
I have a little bit of electronic experience under my belt. I noticed that the exposed copper wires in the fourth photo look quite oxidized. I would highly urge you to get the entire harness replaced under warranty. High heat, like that from the exhaust header, will tend to harden the copper wires, making them seem brittle. Also, in the presence of oxygen, a layer of oxidation will build up and interfere with electrical signals going to/from Nanny. Those wires will break much sooner than the others on your bike causing you all kinds of grief, most likely.
One other incentive, BRP has no motivation to fix these problems if owners do them, and they also never know about variations of the basic problem, like this. When you go to the dealer to get it fixed officially, bring the pictures so they can see the original problem.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Web Runner
I have a little bit of electronic experience under my belt. I noticed that the exposed copper wires in the fourth photo look quite oxidized. I would highly urge you to get the entire harness replaced under warranty. High heat, like that from the exhaust header, will tend to harden the copper wires, making them seem brittle. Also, in the presence of oxygen, a layer of oxidation will build up and interfere with electrical signals going to/from Nanny. Those wires will break much sooner than the others on your bike causing you all kinds of grief, most likely.
Agree. It does need to be replaced. I also agree with reporting the damage as well.
USAF '69-'89 E7
Thailand/Vietnam 1972
Member: Royal Order of Rat Bastards
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Web Runner
I have a little bit of electronic experience under my belt. I noticed that the exposed copper wires in the fourth photo look quite oxidized. I would highly urge you to get the entire harness replaced under warranty. High heat, like that from the exhaust header, will tend to harden the copper wires, making them seem brittle. Also, in the presence of oxygen, a layer of oxidation will build up and interfere with electrical signals going to/from Nanny. Those wires will break much sooner than the others on your bike causing you all kinds of grief, most likely.
Great info, thanks!
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