If you don't have a torque wrench; just pay close attention to how much effort it took to get it off... just put it back rogether with about the same amount!
That will often result in overtorquing. Fasteners put into aluminum (like crankcase bolts), fasteners with soft metal gaskets (like drain plugs), and fasteners with thread locking compounds take more torque to remove than they did to tighten. Fasteners with epoxy thread locking compound (like Spyder handlebar screws) take considerably more torque to remove than to tighten. In addition, it is hard to judge feel the same way in different directions. Different muscles and movements are used and they may not "feel" the same. Use the torque wrench! If you don't have the proper tools, buy them or hire the job done. JMHO
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
If you have a 2013 RS-S all you have to do is bolt on the ST-S bar, that's what I did and I love it....You should also be able to bolt on the RT bar to, But it might be a little to much.
Another question, are the spyder windsheild bolt a common type of button head torx bolt? I lost one somewhere while riding and need to replace it. Can i just find them at Fastenal? If i can i might buy a big bag of them if they come in stainless, and replace all the body bolts with them as well, it seems the spyder uses this one type of bolt all over the body panels, to add a small bit of shiny accent to the all matte finish of the bike.
Another question, are the spyder windsheild bolt a common type of button head torx bolt? I lost one somewhere while riding and need to replace it. Can i just find them at Fastenal? If i can i might buy a big bag of them if they come in stainless, and replace all the body bolts with them as well, it seems the spyder uses this one type of bolt all over the body panels, to add a small bit of shiny accent to the all matte finish of the bike.
You may want to make this a separate thread. You may get more responses that way. Those that have looked at your original post may not look again.
Well, I like to ride side saddle with no underwear .....................................oh, wait, I forgot. Lamont told me not to post after I've been drinking.
2018 F3 S, BRP SS Grill, Spoiler, Attitude Bars, #1 linkage kit, Chopped R Fender, TBR S1R slip On exhaust, Elka Stage 2 R Shock, Shad saddlebags
The Spyder City 3 inch riser is good for me with the Ultimate seat that puts you about 1 inch more forward with a Definite hump on the seat.
Be advised the actual height of the Spyder City riser is 2 3/8 inches!!!!
The black one is 2 3/8 inch the silver is 2 inches that I sold!
I just got a 2012 RSS and after about 600 miles of secondary highway twisties I find that I tend to sit forward to get to the right seating position. After about an hour in the stock saddle I find my upper inner thighs are very sore and I need to get off. I have a air hawk cushion that I tried but that doesn't help much. I'm 5 foot 8 and so far I have found no issue with the leg bend to the pegs.
Do you think the forward position Ultimate would help resolve the saddle comfort issue I'm having?
Is there still enough cable slack for the Spyder City 3 inch riser?
After about an hour in the stock saddle I find my upper inner thighs are very sore and I need to get off. I have a air hawk cushion that I tried but that doesn't help much. I'm 5 foot 8 and so far I have found no issue with the leg bend to the pegs.
Do you think the forward position Ultimate would help resolve the saddle comfort issue I'm having?
Is there still enough cable slack for the Spyder City 3 inch riser?
Before changing the seat, you may want to check to see if you are pushing to hard into to the side panels with your knees. This may be working your inner thighs (adductors) to the point of fatigue; if you are, just loosen your thigh grip a little.
Bob D, if you read this, you now know how to work your chest and back and inner thighs. The spyder is truly an exercise bike.
Before changing the seat, you may want to check to see if you are pushing to hard into to the side panels with your knees. This may be working your inner thighs (adductors) to the point of fatigue; if you are, just loosen your thigh grip a little.
Bob D, if you read this, you now know how to work your chest and back and inner thighs. The spyder is truly an exercise bike.
You're right about the exercise bike comment. Much more so than a motorbike. Especially the upper body. I don't think my inner thigh issue is muscle strain related. It seems to be a seat pressure point caused by more weight over less area in that position. Now that pressure point maybe made worse by thigh gripping and whether a seat or risers or both could address the discomfort. I'm not sure if the stock seat is shaped well enough in the thigh area if you are sitting in the forward position or if the Ultimate low rider will address.
I am 6 foot tall and I installed the 1 inch riser. It works fine for me. I have the OEM seat and OEM pegs and have no problems with this setup. I have made three trips to FLA about 6 1/2 hour trip with no discomfort. I also don't experience the heat issues that most complain about. At my age (63) I feel this is amazing I have had many bikes previous to the Spyder and this one is the most comfortable. I think that the head forward leg back position is more comfortable, and all my previous bike were cruisers. 2012 RSS