No more heat to my right leg

[joelin]

I use black cardboard paper to cover the right hand side panel which is the space where the hot air blow to your right leg .I installed a 5.6 " spal fan right on the spyder web to blow out all the hot air . So don't get over heat on the engine .

[pzim]

Joelin,

Do you have any pictures?
my get's really hot! this might also help me, would like to see how you did it :bigthumbsup:

pzim

[bjt]

[Twodog185]

On that subject....inside the radiator cover, you'll see a scoop directing the air up and out towards the openning. A closer look, you notice the scoop doesn't go all the way to the bottom and there's a 2" gap between the scoop and the cowl body. I plan to go to Lowes and buy a small square of 3/32" plexiglass and attach it to the scoop to extend it to the cowl. Rivits will be used as the permanent attachment. This will direct 95% of the air up and out of the cowl. It should work.

I also wrapped my exhaust pipe along the left side from the header to the crossover with fiberglass wrap. Simple job, and cut the left side heat down by 80%.

Will take pictures when I remove the covers again.

[joelin]

Joelin,

Do you have any pictures?
my get's really hot! this might also help me, would like to see how you did it :bigthumbsup:

pzim

Can anybody tell me how to post pictures ?

[bjt]

You need to upload your pictures from your computer to a picture hosting site like PhotoBucket. Then you link to your pictures on the picture hosting site in your posts here. For future reference, the same process can work on many other forums.

Here is a link to some picture instruction I posted on SpyderLovers before.

[joelin]

[NancysToy]

Looks like a good idea. I have noticed the heat coming through that gap, and had thought about redirecting it to the outside vent hole. I think I will try some kraft foam glued in there.

The extra fan is pretty inconspicuous behind the Kewlmetal web. Nicely done. Did you say where you powered the fan from, and whether it is thermostatically controlled. That is one area that simple programming could cure. The Spyder fan comes on at too high of a temperature, IMO, and shuts off at apparently the same setting. If it came on sooner, as Ken at Evoluzione has done, and stayed on longer, it would help. I also think they should program it to run a while after you shut the Spyder down, like a car, but they probably worry about the battery voltage, which seems to be crucial.
-Scotty

[ataDude]

My $0.02 here ;D There are thermostats in the market (automotive, I think) that will strap to a radiator hose and use that heat as the on/off parameter. I've seen them on other bikes and will keep an eye out for them as I surf.

Looks like a good idea. I have noticed the heat coming through that gap, and had thought about redirecting it to the outside vent hole. I think I will try some kraft foam glued in there.

The extra fan is pretty inconspicuous behind the Kewlmetal web. Nicely done. Did you say where you powered the fan from, and whether it is thermostatically controlled. That is one area that simple programming could cure. The Spyder fan comes on at too high of a temperature, IMO, and shuts off at apparently the same setting. If it came on sooner, as Ken at Evoluzione has done, and stayed on longer, it would help. I also think they should program it to run a while after you shut the Spyder down, like a car, but they probably worry about the battery voltage, which seems to be crucial.
-Scotty

[Danimal]

looks like a pretty good idea... I'm waiting for Ken to have his fan mod available... but the heat isn't that bad for me.

[theRED1]

I also wrapped my exhaust pipe along the left side from the header to the crossover with fiberglass wrap. Simple job, and cut the left side heat down by 80%.

Will take pictures when I remove the covers again.

I also wrapped my exhaust pipe on the left side today. I started looking up some stuff about this exhaust wrap (which I should have before wrapping) and found a lot about rust being accelerated on the pipe wrapped. I've read that water gets soaked into the wrap easily and this causes the rust acceleration. I did use the heat spray but I have find a way to cover the rest of the engine while spraying to apply a more protective coat. Do any of the pros have any thoughts on this rust matter? The heat is definitely is down on the left side! I was thinking about also wrapping the other side. However, if this rust acceleration is true, I may have to rethink this exhaust wrap.

[joelin]

Looks like a good idea. I have noticed the heat coming through that gap, and had thought about redirecting it to the outside vent hole. I think I will try some kraft foam glued in there.

The extra fan is pretty inconspicuous behind the Kewlmetal web. Nicely done. Did you say where you powered the fan from, and whether it is thermostatically controlled. That is one area that simple programming could cure. The Spyder fan comes on at too high of a temperature, IMO, and shuts off at apparently the same setting. If it came on sooner, as Ken at Evoluzione has done, and stayed on longer, it would help. I also think they should program it to run a while after you shut the Spyder down, like a car, but they probably worry about the battery voltage, which seems to be crucial.
-Scotty

I used 12 v outlet for the power . But need to change to 5 amp fuse . The fan stay on all the time even you turn off your bike the fan will stay on for about 10 more seconds . I think the spyder design for 12 v outlet
off delay for few seconds .

[pzim]

Joelin,

Thanks for posting the pictures! :bigthumbsup:
Very helpful, Will try it on my

Thanks
PZIM

[Lamonster]

That may help drop the motor heat too. :bigthumbsup:

[NancysToy]

That may help drop the motor heat too. :bigthumbsup:

The fan sure should.

[Sopher]

Last weekend I went ahead and put on the DEI heat Wrap. Both left and right sides. It looked kind of funny when I ran the bike for the next two rides. At stop lights my bike would eminate smoke like a bad cigarette. It was "Seasoning" the wrap! (I had dipped the wrap in water as the instructions say to make a tighter wrap.)

The heat is lower. I think extending the air scoop to completely cover the fan output is a good way to go. I would favor a flexable plastic as it wont tear up or fall apart like cardboard.

Idea: Craft stores sell thin plastic (about the thinkness of the cardboard on the back of a pad of papper). Spray this flat black and install with pop rivets. I doubt the heat is so high as to melt it, but it may be worth using a heat temp gun to measure it.

[yelloud]

i did not do the plastic with the rivets to shield the heat, but i did do the DEI exhaust wrap. what a world of difference! heres the product i bought, what a time saver!

http://www.deicycle.com/Black_Motorc...licone_Coating

Sopeher ---------> of your final plastic install... thats a great idea, just wanna see how it looks.

[IdleUp]

I'm not trying to be negative, but for idle & slow speed riding (where heat seems to be a problem) the spyder web grille and the 2nd fan might be blocking more air from the primary fan then your moving with the second fan. On that type of fan design, the most volume of air is on the tips of the blades and almost no air in the center. Looks at best you might be using only 40-50% of the fan's capability since the remaining blades are cavitating up against the shroud. The center of the fan is just blocking the opening at this point. Once the primary fan starts, the high pressure area from the primary fan will easily find it's way out of the opening.

We run into the same exact heat problems in the fuselage with the scale model helicopters. You might be much better off installing that fan on the engine compartment to move ambient air from around the engine and exhaust pipes.

Just my 2cents!

[joelin]

I'm not trying to be negative, but for idle & slow speed riding (where heat seems to be a problem) the spyder web grille and the 2nd fan might be blocking more air from the primary fan then your moving with the second fan. On that type of fan design, the most volume of air is on the tips of the blades and almost no air in the center. Looks at best you might be using only 40-50% of the fan's capability since the remaining blades are cavitating up against the shroud. The center of the fan is just blocking the opening at this point. Once the primary fan starts, the high pressure area from the primary fan will easily find it's way out of the opening.

We run into the same exact heat problems in the fuselage with the scale model helicopters. You might be much better off installing that fan on the engine compartment to move ambient air from around the engine and exhaust pipes.

Just my 2cents!

the fan on the picture was 6.5 " It was too big . I installed new one is 5.6" . it fit right on the center of the web . I add one switch for the fan . when I was riding in the traffic at 96 to 103 F I turn on the fan the temperature bar never over 5 bar . the heat to my leg was gone right away .

[jimjel]

Has BRP ever addressed any of the heat issues yet?

[NVR2L8]

I also wrapped my exhaust pipe on the left side today. I started looking up some stuff about this exhaust wrap (which I should have before wrapping) and found a lot about rust being accelerated on the pipe wrapped. I've read that water gets soaked into the wrap easily and this causes the rust acceleration. I did use the heat spray but I have find a way to cover the rest of the engine while spraying to apply a more protective coat. Do any of the pros have any thoughts on this rust matter? The heat is definitely is down on the left side! I was thinking about also wrapping the other side. However, if this rust acceleration is true, I may have to rethink this exhaust wrap.

Folks out there, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the entire Spyder exhaust system is made of Stainless Steel. No issue with rust.
I'm considering the idea of mounting a second smaller fan to the front of the Radiator. The only hurdle is figuring out the best way to mount it.

[IdleUp]

I'm looking for a small fan for the oil cooler - that would accomplish two things - draw heat from the core of the engine by cooling the oil and secondly move air from around the engine and header pipe area.

So far I have not found a small fan at my local parts houses.

[SpyderMark]

Folks out there, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the entire Spyder exhaust system is made of Stainless Steel. No issue with rust.

Corrosion isn't the only issue with wrapping your pipes. The other question is deterioration from excessive heat. Unwrapped pipes are cooled by air flowing over them -- that's why you feel the heat. When you wrap them, you keep all that heat in the pipe.

This isn't a problem if the pipe is designed to hold all the heat (usually fabricated from tubing with thicker walls). For the Spyder, you will almost certainly cause accelerated wear on the pipes. How much accelerated is yet to be determined.

For many, an early demise of their exhaust pipes and the associated cost of replacement is an acceptable trade off to eliminate the perceived excessive heat. Personally, I don't find the Spyder to be hotter than any other motorcycle I've ever owned. Once it gets above 90 degrees F it's just plain HOT on any bike! But then again, I don't ride much in stop-and-go traffic...

Regards,

Mark

[joelin]

I'm looking for a small fan for the oil cooler - that would accomplish two things - draw heat from the core of the engine by cooling the oil and secondly move air from around the engine and header pipe area.

So far I have not found a small fan at my local parts houses.

check with this www.spalusa.com all made in italy

[XXX 74]

Has BRP ever addressed any of the heat issues yet?

I did. They said that the tech will look at it when I take the bike for service. But a lot of people have simply look for a work around and have not reported the issue. I think is a poor design and must be addressed by BRP. They are pretty good in taking responsibility but people NEED to report the issue...