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Too much Junk in the Frunk? Unstick the frunk lid video
OK after this happening to me and a small panic attack
Then after reading a few posts about the front trunk lid sticking and some people not knowing how to fix it, I decided to make a video showing how to unstick your lid.
Hope it is helpful to someone!
Bob
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Bob good job! I would caution about using an adhesive though as it would make it difficult to access the fuses.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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thanks
A good lesson on the problem. I would of never thought about the gasket being loose.
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Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
Bob good job! I would caution about using an adhesive though as it would make it difficult to access the fuses.
Yep..... thanks for pointing that out! I guess I just have to remember to NEVER force the frunk lid closed! If you have to do that, you have too much junk in the frunk or the rubber is off.
Bob
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I might add that it pays to lubricate the latch and pin. If the electric latch deosn't release, adjustment of the latch and lubricating it is likely needed.
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Too much Junk in the Frunk? Unstick the frunk lid video
Bob, you may also want to hit up SpyderPops for his frunk replacement weather strip. It seals better and has far less if a chance of slipping off. Thanks for the video.
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Bob if u use a little contact cement on the rubber and in the rail given time to tack up than re position the rubber and re seat it, this will adhear the rubber gasket to the frunk rail and keep it from comming loose again.
Mike
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Nicely done..!!
great "how to" video. Should help folks for we had a run on stuck latches here lately..thanks..!!
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Thanks for the tips guys!
Bob
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
I might add that it pays to lubricate the latch and pin. If the electric latch deosn't release, adjustment of the latch and lubricating it is likely needed.
Once again.............................excellent advice! I'm calling BRP though......................the electric latch on mine has never worked worth a .
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Originally Posted by Flanker
Once again.............................excellent advice! I'm calling BRP though......................the electric latch on mine has never worked worth a .
It would be interesting for an electric latch to work on an RS...since there isn't one.
For legitimate concerns, calling BRP isn't going to help. Your tech has to deal with it. There are two things that are essential...a microswitch whose arm is intact, not bent, and is properly positioned; and proper adjustment of the latch. You also need to have the liner (if equipped) and the wetherstrip installed correctly. A good tech can deal with all this. If yours has been unable to do so, you may wish to try another dealer.
Last edited by NancysToy; 07-06-2013 at 06:16 AM.
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Not so lucky for me! Mine stays stuck! With the engine running in will open by the switch. Without, I have to push down on the frunk to open just like the video showed. It will not even closed by dropping it as shown in the video. The weather strip appears to be all the way down. Who knows????
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Originally Posted by rolinfaz
Not so lucky for me! Mine stays stuck! With the engine running in will open by the switch. Without, I have to push down on the frunk to open just like the video showed. It will not even closed by dropping it as shown in the video. The weather strip appears to be all the way down. Who knows????
See your dealer.
2010's only open electrically when the engine is running, but the 2011's onward open just with the key just turned on. The trunk should open with the key if you press downward then turn counter-clockwise. You should feell the resistance of the cable and latch when you do this. If not, you are either not following the procedure correctly, or your cable has come loose or broken.
Last edited by NancysToy; 07-06-2013 at 08:21 PM.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
See your dealer.
Agree! Makes no sense that the engine must be running to open it other than maybe engine vibration helping it to unlatch.
Bob
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Misunderstanding! It does open with the engine off. What I was trying to say is that after I turn the key I still have to press down on the frunk with the engine off. Engine on just hit the switch and it is open. So what I am reading here is that this is normal for a 2010 model???? That is to have to press down on the frunk to open while the engine is shut off?
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The button will not work unless the key is on. It does not have to be running though.
My guess is the engine vibration is helping it to unlatch with the button which is why it appears to work when the engine is running. The key is manual and pulls a cable. If you have to press down on the lid to make that work, then double check the rubber and make sure it is well seated. Otherwise your latch or hinge needs adjusting possibly.
Bob
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Excellent Video Bob---thank you so much
Thank you Bob!!!!
This is one of the best and thorough DIY videos I have seen on here. Wish there were a lot more of these available to all of us.
You have saved a lot of us headaches and frustration. Since my wife uses the Frunk 99% of the time I'll make sure she knows of this information.
Again thank you so much for your insight and making and posting of this great DIY Video!
2015 RT-Limited SE6-TricLED Fender LED's (Red and Amber), 3rd LED Brake Light/Tail Light, ISCI Handbrake with black small hands handle,Spyderpops Rock Guard. ,Can-Am Adjustable Wing Vents, Bumpskid, Bajaron's Sway-Bar with metal Heim Joints. Elkas Stage 2 Plus., TricLED Wide-VU Mirrors, TricLED Jumper Port, Laser Aligned!
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Originally Posted by finless
The button will not work unless the key is on. It does not have to be running though.
My guess is the engine vibration is helping it to unlatch with the button which is why it appears to work when the engine is running. The key is manual and pulls a cable. If you have to press down on the lid to make that work, then double check the rubber and make sure it is well seated. Otherwise your latch or hinge needs adjusting possibly.
Bob
The engine does have to be running on the 2010. If it will open by pushing on the lid without the engine running, the latch needs to be adjusted.
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Ok thanks! I did not know that about the 2010 models. Kinda stupid they did it that way and glad they changed it in 2011
Seems to me a safety issue to be fooling with the frunk while the engine is running!
Bob
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Originally Posted by finless
Ok thanks! I did not know that about the 2010 models. Kinda stupid they did it that way and glad they changed it in 2011
Seems to me a safety issue to be fooling with the frunk while the engine is running!
Bob
I don't know that it is really a safety issue, but it most certainly was an inconvenience. Another nice improvement they made was that the key can push down and open the trunk while the engine remains running. Lots of ways to skin the cat after the 2011's were introduced.
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Active Member
Too much Junk in the Frunk
Originally Posted by finless
OK after this happening to me and a small panic attack
Then after reading a few posts about the front trunk lid sticking and some people not knowing how to fix it, I decided to make a video showing how to unstick your lid.
Hope it is helpful to someone!
Bob
Thanks Bob. That answered a bunch questions and is a much better remedy than adjusting any latches or hinges. (Interestingly, I couldn't find any adjustment to the frunk lid)
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Originally Posted by zbunker
Thanks Bob. That answered a bunch questions and is a much better remedy than adjusting any latches or hinges. (Interestingly, I couldn't find any adjustment to the frunk lid)
There is no adjustment to the lid, just the latch on an RT or the latch pin on the RS (& ST?).
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