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Active Member
Won't Run, check engine light won't clear
Alright, I've installed iridium plugs and new wires, BajaRon's, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the exhaust with the Can-Am by Hindle, wrapped the exhaust system with Titanium exhaust wrap. Battery is fully charged. Fuel is new with Sea foam additive. Air filter is a Green re-useable from ESI. Turn key and clear the initial star-up screen. The engine check light will not clear. Press the engine start button, limp mode scrolls across the screen, only the rear cylinder is firing, I know this because the exhaust pipe is warm. Front pipe is cold. Engine runs for about 5 seconds then shuts down. I have rechecked every electrical plug in the engine compartment, to verify they are connected. I'm at a loss. I do not know how to check for fault codes. I know it may seem odd, but have never had a problem with my 2008 RS, I have 19,000 miles on her and now, This! I threw the old plugs and wires away. I hope you techs can suggest what my next step should be. I'd also like to know how to check codes, as well. Thanks for any help
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Active Member
No back fire, no gas smell.
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Thinks out loud
Pull the plug on the dead cylinder and see if it's firing. If not. Trouble shoot from that point back.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Active Member
Pulled plug and it's dry. I'll check the injector, but why would the engine check light come on before turning the engine over?
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Motorbike Professor
Check your plug wire connections again, very carefully...especially the terminal position in the boots at both ends. Also check to see if you accidentally knocked off a vacuum hose. Look for other disconnected wire or connectors. I doubt you will get a meaningful fault code...probably just an artifact. For the RS, turn the key on or have the engine running, scroll to total hours, while pressing MODE, press the Flash High Beams button rapidly, five times within 2 seconds. Active fault codes will show on the screen. Whenever you have a problem after doing some work, retrace your steps. I suspect that you caused your own misery.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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If all was O.K. Befor you started the work then it usually is one of the last things you did. You gapped the plugs? Check to see if you have spark at the plugs. Remove the plug from the cold cylinder, attach the plug wire to it and ground the plug on the side of the block or cylinder and crank it over, you should get a spark at the plug. You can get a bad wire out of the box, but would need an ohm meter to test that.
If you still have your owners manual, that should give you the proper instructions on the code issue.
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Active Member
Most likely caused my own problem. Plug wires are tight, vacuum lines all good.
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Registered Users
Won't Run, check engine light won't clear
Brainstorming.... Don't flame me. Ignition coil, spark plugs, or wires. The spark plug test will tell a lot. Ron's plugs are gapped already...or at least mine were.
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Active Member
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Active Member
Pretty sure there Roger. Seems very tight.
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Thinks out loud
Check 'fuse' for injector.
It's unclear whether there's one fuse for both banks or if they are sepearte fuses.
Last edited by Jeriatric; 06-18-2013 at 05:09 PM.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Active Member
Jerbear Ok, I checked F8 fuse, checks out.
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Thinks out loud
Originally Posted by 1VENOM
Jerbear Ok, I checked F8 fuse, checks out.
All that's left is checking relays. Other than the list of things Scotty offered. Check the vacuum hoses closely. They or one could be cracked on the back side, and if so. Replacement length is critical. If you find one of them bad I'll get the correct length for you.
85mm / 4.33 inches - correct length of each.
Last edited by Jeriatric; 06-18-2013 at 06:20 PM.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Did you pull the connector off the FI and reseat it?
If you have an ohm meter you can check between the pins on the injector it should be about 12 ohms.
My bet though is that it is a connector somewhere.
Roger, I'm reading 15.2ohms. FI is re-seated.
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
If you pull the connector off again ...
With the key ON you should read battery voltage on the connector.
Roger, 11.85 volts
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Registered Users
Ok so here is what I would do, and you would like it as much as I would. undo what you did and put the old stuff back on, see if you are back to running, then change things one at a time and keep checking for if you are running along the way. I know it isn't much help but you may find the problem.
Corbin saddle
spyderpops block off plate, bump skid, belt guard
IPS
Tricled LED lights all around(too many to name here)
Smoothspyder belt tensioner
Custom Dynamics britesides
VTC floorboards, upper air vents, spoiler
BK car stuff HID upgrade
trailer hitch
Repainted rear fender, trunk latch assembly, switch cluster, gauge cluster
cell phone interface kit
travel cover that no longer fits due to the spoiler
New sway bar
New shock relocator
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Very Active Member
i would still put new relays in there cheap at the auto shops i bought 6 when i frist got my spyder and still got them they stay in my spyder just in case.they do go bad some times.
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Waving the flag of Victory
Well, as I said in my last post, I thought I had to surrender. Had Venom delivered to the shop, they told me it would be at least a week before they could get to her. Then by the time I got home there was a message on my phone, saying that the manager had told them to just plug it into "BUDS", The ECM had to be reset and she is purrrrrrrrring. Come and get her, total cost, $89.00, for the diagnostics. Once again I want to thank everyone who made suggestion, and took the time to look at my post. Sincerely a very happy man. 1Venom (Rod) ALLOUT Cycles in Chesapeake, VA, rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Catching a Yellow Jacket in your helmet at 65 mph can double your vocabulary
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by 1VENOM
Well, as I said in my last post, I thought I had to surrender. Had Venom delivered to the shop, they told me it would be at least a week before they could get to her. Then by the time I got home there was a message on my phone, saying that the manager had told them to just plug it into "BUDS", The ECM had to be reset and she is purrrrrrrrring. Come and get her, total cost, $89.00, for the diagnostics. Once again I want to thank everyone who made suggestion, and took the time to look at my post. Sincerely a very happy man. 1Venom (Rod) ALLOUT Cycles in Chesapeake, VA, rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That's awesome! Not only that it was fixed, but for $89!
I know that if *I* took my Spyder in for this kind of thing around here, I might have to add a decimal place to that number...
Silver 2010 RS SE5: Triple Play, Taillight, Brightsides, Fender Tips, Easy Risers; Evo Sway Bar; Airhawk R & Beadrider; latch springs; Grab-On grips; Crampbuster; 24" Madstad smoke windshield & deflectors; N-R round bag & soft saddlebags; BRP handlebar bag; Throttlemeister; Spyderpops Missing Air Dam & Air Mgmt System; Rivco driver & passenger boards & pegs; ISCI parking brake extension; Ultimate Midrider Seat w/both backrests, Fox Racing Shocks, Yoshi R-77 exhaust and a whole lotta love!
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Registered Users
Yeah that was my second guess.
Corbin saddle
spyderpops block off plate, bump skid, belt guard
IPS
Tricled LED lights all around(too many to name here)
Smoothspyder belt tensioner
Custom Dynamics britesides
VTC floorboards, upper air vents, spoiler
BK car stuff HID upgrade
trailer hitch
Repainted rear fender, trunk latch assembly, switch cluster, gauge cluster
cell phone interface kit
travel cover that no longer fits due to the spoiler
New sway bar
New shock relocator
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