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Originally Posted by ARCTIC
Mine did the exact same thing I've got one working fine still fighting the other one shielding with foil helps and reversing the feed wires seems to make a differance also I found my battery connection caused more sensitivity some have give up on these kits xenon dept won't return my call and act like they have no idea this ever happens like I said mine did the exact thing you described I still can't figure out how it makes it run fast with throttle cable and throttle by wire
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My GS did the same thing with the Xenon HID....Once installed it rev'd up to around 5-6k in neutral and I have to hit the kill switch...Then it wouldn't start ...just crank...kept trying for another 5 minutes and it'd do the same...Come to find out it was placement of the ballasts too close to the electrical circuitry...Moved the ballasts to another location and it was fine.
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Installed HID lights and spyder went CRAZY!!!
Mine would not allow the Spyder to start on the first try. It would always start-stall. Hit the button again and it would start. Appeared to be due to the load to first fire the ballasts.
To fix I was told I would need to spend more money for different ballasts that draw less power at startup......would have been nice to know BEFORE I ordered what I had and had everything installed. I pulled it all out and went back to the stock lights. I want to ride, not have the machine pulled apart in the garage.
My kid installed the kit i pulled from the spyder in his VW and said they work great....haha.
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Originally Posted by Littlebadwolf
My GS did the same thing with the Xenon HID....Once installed it rev'd up to around 5-6k in neutral and I have to hit the kill switch...Then it wouldn't start ...just crank...kept trying for another 5 minutes and it'd do the same...Come to find out it was placement of the ballasts too close to the electrical circuitry...Moved the ballasts to another location and it was fine.
Curious where you moved them to? I can't get mine any further away without extending the wires.
Originally Posted by DrewNJ
Mine would not allow the Spyder to start on the first try. It would always start-stall. Hit the button again and it would start. Appeared to be due to the load to first fire the ballasts.
To fix I was told I would need to spend more money for different ballasts that draw less power at startup......would have been nice to know BEFORE I ordered what I had and had everything installed. I pulled it all out and went back to the stock lights. I want to ride, not have the machine pulled apart in the garage.
My kid installed the kit i pulled from the spyder in his VW and said they work great....haha.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unless something obvious comes up as a reliable solution I'm likely pulling mine too. This project has been a long drawn out waste of time. Maybe my atv has the same headlight.
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Re: Installed HID lights and spyder went CRAZY!!!
Make sure your ballasts are mounted to plastic and not touching metal. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and if you have fog lights, they are turned off when you start the spyder. I had them on mt Phantom and the rt. It takes moving the ballasts around a little, but they will work.
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Originally Posted by dave01
Make sure your ballasts are mounted to plastic and not touching metal. Also, make sure your battery is fully charged and if you have fog lights, they are turned off when you start the spyder. I had them on mt Phantom and the rt. It takes moving the ballasts around a little, but they will work.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
After the initial starting issue, I went straight for the battery charger and let it charge for a hour and it had no effect on the issue. Also tried starting it with the charger on it. Same thing. Tried running a ground wire to different areas.... Same thing. Grounded the cases of the ballasts... Same thing. Took the ballasts off of the metal frame... Same thing.
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Originally Posted by ARCTIC
After the initial starting issue, I went straight for the battery charger and let it charge for a hour and it had no effect on the issue. Also tried starting it with the charger on it. Same thing. Tried running a ground wire to different areas.... Same thing. Grounded the cases of the ballasts... Same thing. Took the ballasts off of the metal frame... Same thing.
Try one ballast at a time, with them sitting next to the Spyder, like on a bucket or something. You may have a bad ballast that is shorting out. Been there too.
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Originally Posted by dave01
Try one ballast at a time, with them sitting next to the Spyder, like on a bucket or something. You may have a bad ballast that is shorting out. Been there too.
We are on the SAME page here. I disconnected the ground from both boxes because I had the positives soldered together. I could get it to start sometimes with one headlight and never with the other. Thought I had it all figured out and retested my theory and then it wouldn't start with either of them again
At the time, both ballast were not mounted to the spyder and hanging off the side from the wires
Last edited by ARCTIC; 06-03-2013 at 08:51 AM.
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Originally Posted by ARCTIC
We are on the SAME page here. I disconnected the ground from both boxes because I had the positives soldered together. I could get it to start sometimes with one headlight and never with the other. Thought I had it all figured out and retested my theory and then it wouldn't start with either of them again
At the time, both ballast were not mounted to the spyder and hanging off the side from the wires
Try reversing the feed wires from the stock lites that fire the system also if the battery is at all questionable it will do this like I said before foil wrapping for shielding also helped
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Originally Posted by ARCTIC
This same exact situation is happening to me. I am finished hooking everything up on my 2011 RS (headlights and foglights), but when I try to start the bike, it goes straight to VSS fault. I contacted John from Xenon Depot and he told me I needed to purchase the inline capacitor they sell to fix the problem (CBFIX). I am skeptical about this working, but I am going to try. This has been frustrating to say the least.
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Originally Posted by Mavericklion79
This same exact situation is happening to me. I am finished hooking everything up on my 2011 RS (headlights and foglights), but when I try to start the bike, it goes straight to VSS fault. I contacted John from Xenon Depot and he told me I needed to purchase the inline capacitor they sell to fix the problem (CBFIX). I am skeptical about this working, but I am going to try. This has been frustrating to say the least.
If you end up deciding to give up on the aftermarket ones.. I have a factory can-am kit for sale $340 the bike will run perfectly with the factory kit and replaces the whole light fixture with nicely sealed housings that are designed for the HID lights
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