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Registered Users
I would also opt for the upgraded sway bar. Glad to hear things are getting better for you and it is rideable now.
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Very Active Member
Glad to hear you've got it working better (i.e. haven't stutter bumped yourself into an oncoming gasoline tanker )! As much as I like my Spyder, I've always wondered why the BRP engineers decided to run with the tiny wheel sizes and not something in the 16 or 17" range? Would've made replacement tire selection much larger, and easier for us, and an additional selling point for Spyders. Larger wheel diameters would have made 320mm brake rotors and 4 to 6 piston calipers feasible as well (would have gone well with the 200HP, 6 spd, 640 lb Spyder they should have built all along.........................just sayin').
2018 F3 S, BRP SS Grill, Spoiler, Attitude Bars, #1 linkage kit, Chopped R Fender, TBR S1R slip On exhaust, Elka Stage 2 R Shock, Shad saddlebags
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Flanker
Couple of good points already made by others...................you've just discovered the foibles of increasing the leverage (via your adapters moving the wheels/tires outboard to the stock location) your wheels exert on your suspension; the potential detriment of drastically increasing unsprung weight vs sprung weight (if you didn't know it's commonly accepted at a 1 to 4 ratio) without proportionately altering both spring rate and compression/rebound damping to compensate for the increase in unsprung weight, vividly demonstrating how low aspect ratio tires have stiffer sidewalls vs higher aspect ratio tires, thereby improving turn in response, decreasing rim protection, while increasing ride harshness, and requiring a minimum threshold sprung weight to function properly, as well as how important understanding the theory and practical implementation of toe in/out, camber, and caster settings are to proper suspension function. BTW: They do look bitchin'. As a practical suggestion....................Bajaron seems to have a pretty good grasp on the ins and outs of Spyder suspension based on experience and technical knowledge.................you might wish to consult with him r.e. potential mitigating measures for your new "pimpin' dubs". Good luck! Oh yea...................you've succeeded in making me nervous about swapping my front tires to 185/60/14s on the stock rims. Thanks! One more thing: I take it; it the roads are never wet at "your house"? Because if they are......................you'll discover why not having fenders over your tires sucks. OK, OK.................one more, one more thing..........................the taller OAD of the new front rim/tire combination with a corresponding increase in rear rim/tire OAD has fundamentally altered the overall stance of your ride, affecting center of gravity, polar moment of inertia, weight shift on acceleration and braking, roll rate and yaw response. They still look bitchin' though.
I put 185/60/14 Electra platinum tires and six spoke rims on my 2011 RS. Had to shim the fenders up and out a little bit them went on a four day ride though the Utah mountains, ran like a champ I also have Baja Ron's sway bar and rt front shocks. I have set on 5 setting on front shocks going to dial down to four setting to see if I get the same turn performance with a softer ride
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men should do nothing.” Edward Burke
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Active Member
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You have already invested a bucket full of time and money so go the extra mile and find a front end alignment shop and have the alignment checked by a professional that can think outside of the box. Keep us up to date as you are definitely thinking outside the normal box !!,
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Good job!!! I was just gonna tell you NOT to do the alignment. Don't fix what's not broken. If everything feels good to you then leave it as is until you real need the alignment. From your previous post it sounds lime you don't trust the place too much. Enjoy the bike the way it is right now.
When you get a chance, can you PM me the details of your spacers and the specs of your wheels. Much appreciated!!
Mellow
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I'm happy for you, doing what you want is the best thing to do. Just keep doing it safely. Good luck.
2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod
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Im really glad you got your Spyder running nice now. I have a question? I have a 2012 RS-S and I ordered new rims/tires 215/35/18 custom made from RideWrightWheels. I'm kinda worried because I hear stories about the Spyder's computer system goes crazy and that it goes into limp mode. Has anyone had any issues with this? Any info would help.
Thank you
Last edited by Jsalientes3; 07-19-2013 at 07:28 AM.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Jsalientes3
Im really glad you got your Spyder running nice now. I have a question? I have a 2012 RS-S and I ordered new rims/tires 215/35/18 custom made from RideWrightWheels. I'm kinda worried because I hear stories about the Spyder's computer system goes crazy and that it goes into limp mode. Has anyone had any issues with this? Any info would help.
Thank you
Well.... My story didn't really have a happy ending... A couple weeks after my last post, the bike went into limp mode on an on ramp while I was doing about 80mph in a wide turn. I was surrounded by traffic, in the passing lane, with an 18 wheeler to my right. It was the scariest thing I've experienced in a LONG time. I seriously can't believe/understand, why the someone would design a bike of any kind, to shut down & completely drop speed when it senses a "fault". It felt like it dropped to first gear while in 5th. It's the most dangerous thing you can do to a rider. ABSoLUTELy STUPID!!! I thought I had a blow-out the way it was sputtering.... I saw my life flash before my eyes as I heard cars breaking inches behind me. I was forced to pull off to the right since there was no left side lane, while cars where swerving around me.
Anyway, I took it to be checked a few days later & they told me it was obviously caused by the wheels. The way it was explained to me was, the spyder has sensors that monitor a number of scenarios, and/or conditions; and when certain scenarios/conditions are met, it = limp mode. I questioned why I had not experienced this before, while having the wheels and going much faster than I was that day. He felt the magic ingredient was the fact that I was in a slight turn, AND going 80MPH, causing the sensor to think I was spinning out.
My daughter is always wanting to ride with me, & I never want to have that happen while I have her with me, so I went back to stock for now. When I did, I realized what a difference the ride quality really was. Nothing comes close to the stability of the stock set-up.
Keep this in mind, The greater the difference is in OD from the stock wheels, the greater your chances are of going into limp mode. My 17" tire size was only .48" larger, which is a 2.1% difference in OD. If your going with a tire size of 215/35/18, thats 1.48" larger which is a 6.6% difference in OD. If your also replacing your rear wheel & making sure the OD difference of the back tire matches the front difference, then you might be ok. If you weren't planning on replacing the back wheel/tire, then I'm willing to bet my left nut that your dash will light up like a xmas tree before you leave your driveway.
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Yeah, I heard about the sensor move trick. The shop who checked out the codes, instructed me to call back & speak to their lead tech who was on vacation at the time. Apparently they install after market wheel all the time, & this particular tech knows how to either disable, or move the sensor to prevent limp mode. I know folks on this forum would argue to NOT disable or mess with the sensors.. But I'm sure if they ever go into Limp Mode, they'd be singing a new song. I'm gonna stay stock for now... We'll see... I'm keeping my mind off of the wheels for now, by redirecting myself & having some fun with HID lights, and some LED's from Tricled..
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We can't wati to see what you cook up next!
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