ST heat on left side

[capt.jim]

The splash panels are the black plastic pieces below the floor boards, right? Why did you remove all that, do you just like the appearance better or some other reason?

The splash panels for ease of oil changes and cooling, the rest only for aesthetics.

[greybeard]

the regional rep almost called me a liar about the left side heat. He noticed that the slots below
the tank on the ST are closed off,said that the hot air could be crossing over from right side
will try a cam can on the right blower before anything else. mine gets almost unbearable

[Edsts]

The heat is on , very surprise the plastic does not melt , forget riding with shorts tried that this weekend and I had to keep my left leg from touching the side wall , when making a sharp turn I usually squeeze my legs to the side walls , once again for as much as this machine cost . I just very disappointed that it was built in this manner. Also can't believe their R&D dept did not notice the heat !

[JKMSPYDER]

I took care of my heat problem on my ST-S for about $60. I bought some exhaust wrap and adhesive heat tape from my local auto store. I wrapped the exhaust on the left side with the wrap, then applied heat tape to the inside of the upper left panel and the black plastic strip by the oil tank. It has reduced my heat problem considerably!

[azjerry]

The exhaust wrap didn't help me any at all but I never heard of heat tape. I'll look for that.

[pro10is]

High Temp exhaust wrap will cure that problem. Wrap as much of the pipe as possible.

Don't waste your time and money with exhaust wrap, it's worthless for this particular problem. The original purpose of exhaust wrap was to attempt to increase the exhaust gas temperature in an effort to decrease its density. This is called exhaust scavenging and it is an attempt to gain a little more power using the same diameter tubing. Exhaust wrap was not meant to realistically reduce the external temperatures of pipes enough to resolve the problem of external heat dissipation.

As I was going through the difficult task of wrapping my exhaust I said to myself: you idiot, you know the laws of thermodynamics, no way this is going to work. And it didn't, not even a little. There is just far too little insulation available with exhaust wrap even when overlapped correctly to possibly contain the constant extreme high temperatures generated by the exhaust. It helps for about the first ten minutes after which the heat just bleeds right through. It may lower the surface temp a little but what real difference does it make if instead of 990 degrees it's 905 degrees? If anyone tells you it works just dare them to grab their wrapped exhaust pipe after the engine has been running for a while. It would take the kind of ultra high tech ceramic heat insulation used on the Space Shuttle to effectively contain the temperatures constantly generated by the exhaust, certainly not a mere eighth inch or so of woven fiberglass or even the "pulverized lava rock" nonsense used in the so-called premium wrap I tried.

The only thing that may help a bit is insulating the tupperware with thick foil covered foam high temp heat insulation wherever the exhaust pipe is nearby. BRP already includes some of this type of insulation, so try adding more. It'll still get hot after a while though so don't expect night and day results.

[Ga Blue Knight]

The splash panels are the black plastic pieces below the floor boards, right? Why did you remove all that, do you just like the appearance better or some other reason?

The splash panels are the flat plastic pieces on the bottom of the bike that are Parallel to the road surface. The thought is to allow a large opening on the very bottom of the bike. This should allow heat to be pull down and out of the engine compartment as you move by what's called a Venturi effect. For it to work fully you need some air intake on top or sides.

[oldgoat]

Don't waste your time and money with exhaust wrap, it's worthless for this particular problem. The original purpose of exhaust wrap was to attempt to increase the exhaust gas temperature in an effort to decrease its density. This is called exhaust scavenging and it is an attempt to gain a little more power using the same diameter tubing. Exhaust wrap was not meant to realistically reduce the external temperatures of pipes enough to resolve the problem of external heat dissipation.

As I was going through the difficult task of wrapping my exhaust I said to myself: you idiot, you know the laws of thermodynamics, no way this is going to work. And it didn't, not even a little. There is just far too little insulation available with exhaust wrap even when overlapped correctly to possibly contain the constant extreme high temperatures generated by the exhaust. It helps for about the first ten minutes after which the heat just bleeds right through. It may lower the surface temp a little but what real difference does it make if instead of 990 degrees it's 905 degrees? If anyone tells you it works just dare them to grab their wrapped exhaust pipe after the engine has been running for a while. It would take the kind of ultra high tech ceramic heat insulation used on the Space Shuttle to effectively contain the temperatures constantly generated by the exhaust, certainly not a mere eighth inch or so of woven fiberglass or even the "pulverized lava rock" nonsense used in the so-called premium wrap I tried.

The only thing that may help a bit is insulating the tupperware with thick foil covered foam high temp heat insulation wherever the exhaust pipe is nearby. BRP already includes some of this type of insulation, so try adding more. It'll still get hot after a while though so don't expect night and day results.

Excellent. A fellow scientist who applies his brain.

[spyderrider12]

So I should just use the Thermo-tec heat shield and not bother wrapping the exhaust pipes? Also, does anyone have a picture of the splash guards? Couldn't understand what part was being talked about.

[thrinsag]

I just got my ST-S and feel an awful lot of heat on the left side. Also read in the ST tech section where a brake fluid reservoir melted (thread just posted on 6-30-13). Wouldn't making some of these moddifications void my warranty??

[Highwayman2013]

The splash panels are on the bottom, under the engine.

[Zenagirl]

Don't waste your time and money with exhaust wrap, it's worthless for this particular problem. The original purpose of exhaust wrap was to attempt to increase the exhaust gas temperature in an effort to decrease its density. This is called exhaust scavenging and it is an attempt to gain a little more power using the same diameter tubing. Exhaust wrap was not meant to realistically reduce the external temperatures of pipes enough to resolve the problem of external heat dissipation.

As I was going through the difficult task of wrapping my exhaust I said to myself: you idiot, you know the laws of thermodynamics, no way this is going to work. And it didn't, not even a little. There is just far too little insulation available with exhaust wrap even when overlapped correctly to possibly contain the constant extreme high temperatures generated by the exhaust. It helps for about the first ten minutes after which the heat just bleeds right through. It may lower the surface temp a little but what real difference does it make if instead of 990 degrees it's 905 degrees? If anyone tells you it works just dare them to grab their wrapped exhaust pipe after the engine has been running for a while. It would take the kind of ultra high tech ceramic heat insulation used on the Space Shuttle to effectively contain the temperatures constantly generated by the exhaust, certainly not a mere eighth inch or so of woven fiberglass or even the "pulverized lava rock" nonsense used in the so-called premium wrap I tried.

The only thing that may help a bit is insulating the tupperware with thick foil covered foam high temp heat insulation wherever the exhaust pipe is nearby. BRP already includes some of this type of insulation, so try adding more. It'll still get hot after a while though so don't expect night and day results.

I asked the tech to apply another layer of insulation to the inside of the left panel because my thigh was getting burned through my jeans. He said there wasn't room for another layer. I also told him other owners of the STs were also having extreme heat problems on the left side. Told him it actually burns our legs, I have pink marks on my legs from the heat. Very very uncomfortable! He asked if BRP came up with a solution. I mentioned folks are wrapping pipes, adding extra insulation, and even cutting holes in panels or removing them. He's going to do some research. Hope he comes up with something!

[MikeinGA]

There is heat on the left side near knee and seat.......I would think that shorter people will be affected more....I feel it...the exhaust is not that high....but there is no place for the heat to escape

I have the same problem with my 2011 RS-S. I taped my headers with Titanium header tape, it helped but it still hot on a long ride. I'm going to a install heat reflective barrier on the inside of my panels and use an air wing push into the area. That should do it for my RS-S. The big heat problem with the ST's is right under the seat and gas tank is the catalytic converter that creates a lot of heat. One way to remove that much heat is to ducted outside air directly over top of a heat shield that reflects the heat away from of the gas tank and rider. THE POBLEM with both RS's & ST's is you need a fan/fans to move this air when sitting still, like in traffic or stop lights. That's IMHO.

Mike

[billrob71]

I have the same problem with mine on my 13 RSS, I know this is debate is going back and forth but I did wrap mine with header wrap for right now. I wrapped it about 4 times around the pipe which is alot more then the package says is needed but used what I had remaining. Had a 40 foot length of wrap and used it all on that pipe from the first bend to the bend at the drive belt. There is no heat felt coming up on the left side anymore. It's been in the mid to upper 90's right now and hit over a 100 today, road the bike, and it hit 5 bars on the temp gauge and put my hand inch away from the pipe before there was heat enough to feel, and the heat on my leg is very minimal.

031_zpsd8bd9823.jpg032_zpsb1df8675.jpg033_zps0af781b0.jpg036_zpsc1e19de0.jpg035_zps1c92b9a0.jpg

[JacqueTanis]

Air Wing Push?

I have the same problem with my 2011 RS-S. I taped my headers with Titanium header tape, it helped but it still hot on a long ride. I'm going to a install heat reflective barrier on the inside of my panels and use an air wing push into the area. That should do it for my RS-S. The big heat problem with the ST's is right under the seat and gas tank is the catalytic converter that creates a lot of heat. One way to remove that much heat is to ducted outside air directly over top of a heat shield that reflects the heat away from of the gas tank and rider. THE POBLEM with both RS's & ST's is you need a fan/fans to move this air when sitting still, like in traffic or stop lights. That's IMHO.

Mike

[tajohn]

billrob71 This is the first positive heat reduction post.....Keep us posted on future rides.