Spyder just shuts off while riding?

[StriperKing]

2010 RTS SM5

OK first I am way more mechanical than most so get as detailed as you want.

So we were riding the other day for a couple hours then all of a sudden the bike just shut off twice for about 2-3 seconds but never completely shut down and never acted up again that day. We then went on a ride for 185 miles and not one issue. Then tonight I rode for about 1 1/2 hours then while going down the rode at about 55 MPH just shut off and coasted to a stop. All the lights and guages were still on brite so I put it in neutral and hit the start button and nothing. I then turned the key off for a couple seconds, turned it back on, the comp. cycled and I hit the start button and it fired right up. I went about 100-200 yards and the same thing happened. This happened about 5 times but after the 5th time it didn`t do it again and I rode home for about 1/2 hour ride. It acts just like you hit the kill switch, not a miss, stutter just shuts off. So here is what I have checked:
1. Gas tank half full
2. Battery conections were tight and the battery is only a couple mo. old
3. Checked all the relays under the seat and in the frunk and all were tight but I pulled them all out and re-inserted them. They were all clean also.
4. I tried to wiggle the kill switch while it was running and did not do anything.
5. I wiggled the key while it was running and it did not do anything.

If it were not for the shutting off you could not ask for it to run any better. It is just as crisp and responsive as always and there are no faults, codes, warnings, nothing. Anything I am overlooking? I really felt it would be a loose relay and it still could have been but who knows. My gut feeling is one of the relays is going bad but there again who knows. It would be better if it just quit and stayed that way then it would be easy. Sorry for the book but wanted to give all the details.

[NancysToy]

If I read this right, when it went sour, your starter did not work at first. That would tend to point to a wonky kill switch or a bad connection to the right control pod. There are some other possibilities...bad DESS module, or bad ECM among them...or possibly a bad (not loose) relay. Did you have any active fault codes? This may be one to get the dealer involved with, and possibly BRP dealer tech support. BUDS may show some codes. If not, it certainly points to a the kill switch, DESS, relay, or a communications problem. BTW, check the battery connections and voltage, just for giggles, if you haven't already.

[StriperKing]

If I read this right, when it went sour, your starter did not work at first. That would tend to point to a wonky kill switch or a bad connection to the right control pod. There are some other possibilities...bad DESS module, or bad ECM among them...or possibly a bad (not loose) relay. Did you have any active fault codes? This may be one to get the dealer involved with, and possibly BRP dealer tech support. BUDS may show some codes. If not, it certainly points to a the kill switch, DESS, relay, or a communications problem. BTW, check the battery connections and voltage, just for giggles, if you haven't already.

Your thoughts are pretty much in line with mine. As far as the starter, it will never try to start after it dies and I put it in neutral. If I cycle the key off and reboot it fires up everytime instantly. Oh and no active fault codes at all.

[mjw930]

When you hit the start button before you cycle the ignition it does the dash recycle?

[StriperKing]

When you hit the start button before you cycle the ignition it does the dash recycle?

No it does not cycle till you turn the key off and then back on. Normally you know how you get that grace period after you turn the key off that it will not have to cycle but after it quits you can turn the key off and right back on and it will go through the whole cycle.

[mjw930]

No it does not cycle till you turn the key off and then back on. Normally you know how you get that grace period after you turn the key off that it will not have to cycle but after it quits you can turn the key off and right back on and it will go through the whole cycle.

Ok, I asked because we had a problem with a GS where everything looked fine but when you hit the start switch it would click then cycle the display. Turned out ot be a corroded negative battery lead. If any negative connection is loose is loose or corroded it will get enough voltage but when you hit the starter it can't pull enough current. You say you replaced the battery a few months ago, have you checked all the ground leads for corrosion?

[NancysToy]

A live display but a disabled starter switch certainly points to a kill switch/DESS issue. Without having BUDS hooked up while it is misbehaving, it would be hard to troubleshoot. Replacing one component at a time (hunt & peck troubleshooting) doesn't normally appeal to me, but in this case it may be necessary. I'd let the dealer pull his hair out.

[StriperKing]

A live display but a disabled starter switch certainly points to a kill switch/DESS issue. Without having BUDS hooked up while it is misbehaving, it would be hard to troubleshoot. Replacing one component at a time (hunt & peck troubleshooting) doesn't normally appeal to me, but in this case it may be necessary. I'd let the dealer pull his hair out.

I agree but it might go 6-8 hours of riding before it acts up. The dealer could literally have it for a year at that rate and it is out of warranty. As far as the relays go I know I would have to be able to pull a main relay and have the dash lights on with the key on and it not start. Eliminating all the sub function relays like ride control, headlights, etc. you pretty much have the main relay #1 and #2 left. If you pull the main #2 you loose dash lights. If you pull #1 you lose starting and running function but still have headlights and dash lights so this is close. When I had the problem and I hit the key after putting it in neutral I got nothing, no start, no clicks, and no warnings just like the switch was dead. With relay #1 removed all is the same but when I hit the start button I get a dps warning, abs among others so I feel I can rule this one out also. I took the kill switch housing apart and all looks good but that dosn`t mean anything.

Unless I am wrong a DESS failure would show key failure or DESS failure, not totally sure about that but just my thought.

Right now I am leaning toward the kill switch unit or ECU. Scotty what are your thoughts on what I am thinking?

[NancysToy]

I agree but it might go 6-8 hours of riding before it acts up. The dealer could literally have it for a year at that rate and it is out of warranty. As far as the relays go I know I would have to be able to pull a main relay and have the dash lights on with the key on and it not start. Eliminating all the sub function relays like ride control, headlights, etc. you pretty much have the main relay #1 and #2 left. If you pull the main #2 you loose dash lights. If you pull #1 you lose starting and running function but still have headlights and dash lights so this is close. When I had the problem and I hit the key after putting it in neutral I got nothing, no start, no clicks, and no warnings just like the switch was dead. With relay #1 removed all is the same but when I hit the start button I get a dps warning, abs among others so I feel I can rule this one out also. I took the kill switch housing apart and all looks good but that dosn`t mean anything.

Unless I am wrong a DESS failure would show key failure or DESS failure, not totally sure about that but just my thought.

Right now I am leaning toward the kill switch unit or ECU. Scotty what are your thoughts on what I am thinking?

I'd start by replacing the #1 relay, from your description. Cheap fix and it can't hurt. Swapping relays would be another option if two are the same. At least replacing or swapping the relay will narrow the focus if it doesn't provide a cure. The kill switch works via the DESS, so I'm not sure all failures of the DESS would show a fault. The ECU should not affect starting, so if the starter won't turn over, I think it could be eliminated. I'm still leaning toward the relay. It would explain the ability to start after a reboot.

[StriperKing]

I'd start by replacing the #1 relay, from your description. Cheap fix and it can't hurt. Swapping relays would be another option if two are the same. At least replacing or swapping the relay will narrow the focus if it doesn't provide a cure. The kill switch works via the DESS, so I'm not sure all failures of the DESS would show a fault. The ECU should not affect starting, so if the starter won't turn over, I think it could be eliminated. I'm still leaning toward the relay. It would explain the ability to start after a reboot.

That is what I will do and the ECU elimination sounds good also. I will update as I find things out. Thanks for all your help!!!

[Bob Denman]

Did you get the fire lit back up under it yet? (Waiting to hear the conclusion to this one... )

[kubie]

Me too!

[StriperKing]

Did you get the fire lit back up under it yet? (Waiting to hear the conclusion to this one... )

No I have been working 10-12 hours a day and it is raining and nasty. The bad thing is you don`t know when it will do it. I would much rather it just leave me high and dry. The headlight and #1 main relay are the same so I am going to switch them and hope my lights act up. More to come.

[grich]

I have the RT Limited 013 shut down on me when i came to a stop started rite back up and haven't had any more problems

[rcdurango]

Last year while riding home from Lamont's BBQ I had the same thing happen. After taking it to the dealer the pod was replaced. It reminded me of like hitting a kill switch.

[StriperKing]

OK I just wanted to update this thread. It is great info for others if we update with our fixes. Anyway it finally got so bad it would not hardly stay running but it did not happen till many more miles, like a thousand or more. It finally threw a P2530 code which let me research just that code. It says "ignition switch state not plausible" "ignition key switch connection or internal switch fault" but with this new info I found that many 2010 RT-S owners have had this problem and all I could find had a bad kill switch. You have to replace the whole kill/starter switch on the right side of the handle bars. This is a huge job if you want to run the wires as they are from the factory. I replaced mine and just got back from a 2,500 mile ride over the past 9-days and it is perfect. They have redesigned this switch for 2011 and up and this is what you would have to get and because of this you will have to get the new handlebar rod this switch mounts to also but if you order this it will tell you what you need in the part look up system.
So if you have a 2010 made before Feb. something of 2010 you have the old style and here is what is wrong with the design. The wires run to a ribbon strip and this connection is sealed with a poured clear rubber but it is done at a 90 degree angle from thr switch to to wires but when installed the wires are bent over parrallel to the switch/handlebars. This pulls the wires loose from the rubber and lets water get to the wire/ribbon connection and corrosion starts as the copper gets wet through the gap where the wires pull loose from the rubber. Mine had very visible corrosion.
The new style has the wire harness run into the poured rubber and not just the wires, then they seal this with silicone as a further safe measure.
If you have one of these and it is not bad yet you could seal yours with silicone now and maybe save a lot of expense and trouble. If you remove a few screws and remove the back of the switch cover it will be easy to do. Here are a few pics so you know what to look for. I have played with it enough that most of the corrosion is rubbed of. It looked like battery corrosion.
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