Rough Idle, Check Engine then Limp Mode after Storage

[nhoj]

Took the RT out of storage yesterday. Installed the battery, it started quickly. Bit of a rough idle at first but it smoothed out quickly and seemed fine.

After it warmed up a bit the idle became very rough, then the check engine light came on and soon Limp Home mode and it would not idle at all without help.

Shut it off, waited 15 minutes bit but the same result.

Took it out for a ride hoping it would clear but after a couple of minutes Limp Mode again.

Disconnected the battery for an hour then tried it again but same result...rough idle, check engine then Limp Mode.

Read the codes: P2279 and P0106 which both hint at air leaks and manifold pressure issues.

The RT ran flawlessly last season (8000Km, 5000mi). Rode right into December and it was running fine the day it went into storage. Changed the oil and ran it for a couple of hours then. Removed the battery and kept it charged over the winter.

Thoughts or suggestions.
Thanks

[Storm56]

Did you put stabilizer in the fuel? Last fall I had untreated hi-test 93 octane fuel go bad in my BMW 1150RT in less than 2 months. Machine would not start in my case at all, fresh fuel and she ran like a top as usual.

[bruiser]

Could be bad gas but that doesn't normally cause Limp Mode. This may sound funny but I would check the vacuum hoses and wiring. It's a long shot but possible mice may have decided to winter over in your Spyder and made a meal out of the hoses and wiring. I'd be making an appointment at the shop though.

[NancysToy]

I agree about the fuel stabilizer and possible bad gas, as well as the possibility of water in the fuel from condensation if the tank wasn't fully topped off, or from absorbtion due to ethanol fuels. Your fault codes seem to point in another direction, though.

P0106 = Manifold Absolute Pressure circuit range/performance...indicating a problem with the MAP sensor not reading as expected
P2279 = Intake Air System Leak...normally indicating a cracked manifold or a gasket leak

I would look at a couple of possibilities. First would be checking the air intake and airbox for a mouse nest. A blocked intake could cause both these faults. Second, I would look carfully for cracked or chewed vacuum hoses. Both these problems indicate improper intake pressure/vacuum...and mice are typical offenders wen it happens over the winter, with the ravages of temperature change on previously heated rubber hoses running close behind. I'd also add some Marine Stabil or Seafoam and some fresh gas. It can't hurt.

[Storm56]

Several good suggestions here, could be any one of them. I have been a pretty fair backyard mechanic most of my life and was a field service engineer for over 10 years. One thing I learned, sometimes the hard way....

Check the easy simple things first.

[nhoj]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The gas was stabilized before we put it away. So we will pull off the panels and check for obstructions, leaks and cracked hoses.

If that doesn't reveal anything its off to the dealer next week. If you are going to have these type of problems its a good thing they happen at the beginning of our riding season.

Thanks again. Will report back with the solution.

[Kungfuspyder]

My friend had a problem with his RT recently it would idle rough, check engine light would come, would not downshift automatically. The vacuum lines were broken due to heat exposure, yours probably as Scotty said, could be a mouse has chewed into to them while yours was in storage, a possibility. After my friends vacuum lines were replaced it ran fine. If your spyder is SE5 shift, the paddle shifter works off of vacuum. Try this, ride your spyder and see if it downshifts automatically when coming to a stop, if it doesn't and stalls out it will probably be the vacuum lines. Just trying to help you troubleshoot your problems, I hope you get this figured out soon.

[Bob Denman]

Thanks again. Will report back with the solution.

Good Luck!!

[NancysToy]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The gas was stabilized before we put it away. So we will pull off the panels and check for obstructions, leaks and cracked hoses.

If that doesn't reveal anything its off to the dealer next week. If you are going to have these type of problems its a good thing they happen at the beginning of our riding season.

Thanks again. Will report back with the solution.

Even with stabilized fuel, moisture can collect in the gas tank from condensation if the tank is not full. Ethanol can also cause phase separation if there is insufficient stabilizer or excessive moisture. Don't automatically discount the possibility just because you stabilized before storage. Never assume anything!

[Illinois Boy]

I agree about the fuel stabilizer and possible bad gas, as well as the possibility of water in the fuel from condensation if the tank wasn't fully topped off, or from absorbtion due to ethanol fuels. Your fault codes seem to point in another direction, though.

P0106 = Manifold Absolute Pressure circuit range/performance...indicating a problem with the MAP sensor not reading as expected
P2279 = Intake Air System Leak...normally indicating a cracked manifold or a gasket leak

I would look at a couple of possibilities. First would be checking the air intake and airbox for a mouse nest. A blocked intake could cause both these faults. Second, I would look carfully for cracked or chewed vacuum hoses. Both these problems indicate improper intake pressure/vacuum...and mice are typical offenders wen it happens over the winter, with the ravages of temperature change on previously heated rubber hoses running close behind. I'd also add some Marine Stabil or Seafoam and some fresh gas. It can't hurt.

Any chance this could be a classic "frozen-block" problem due to low coolant/antifreeze? I certainly hope not for this person's sake.

Just wondering how much it would take to freeze these motors to cause damage like a cracked-block and etc.

[Rando]

Just curious. I had the same problem with the vacuum lines. How many have the SpyderPops radiator block off plate installed? Could the contained heat from the plate be the cause of the cracked vacuum lines?

[AbNormy]

Left side Tupperware has to come off hoses located on left side of throttle body.

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[GadgetGuy442]

I'm going to check my vacuum lines for sure now!!

One other thing that is good preventive maintenance to do is to excersize electrical connectors and use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

For every electrical connector you can get to, separate the two halves and re insert them together 4 or 5 times. Then separate one more time, and put some dielectric grease in each of the female terminal recesses, then reinstall.

This saved me from a throttle body replacement that the dealer was instantly ready to do, when all it turned out to be was a corroded terminal. HAVE PUT TWO THOUSAND TROUBLE FREE MILES ON MY 2010 RTS SINCE THEN, so am pretty sure I didn't need a new throttle body!!

It's worth a try, IMHO.

Bill

[spydercpl]

Keep this one on hand

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[spidergreg]

I got a 2012 RTS and got the P2279 code, changed out the hoses and all is well. It was a bit hard finding the front hose, removed the wire ties on the harness and was able to find it. My NAPA store only had the H458 and not the H466 silicone, so I replaced with the EPDM rubber this time. Will order the H466 for next year. Have to wonder why BRP doesn't use the silicone in the first place!!!

[willowwonka]

Mine is sending same codes . Could it be my hoses