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  1. #1
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    Question Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

    I am considering buying an RS-S with the Auto/Paddle shifting system and Reverse but as all my experience to date has been with traditional manual shifting clutch systems I am a little nervous about going to this Auto transmission.

    Are there any known issues or problems that pop up with one more often than the other? Anything to watch out for if I test drive one with an Auto?

  2. #2
    Registered Users SpyderFun's Avatar
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    Default Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

    Quote Originally Posted by MuGGzy View Post
    .....Anything to watch out for if I test drive one with an Auto?

    Yes.....having too much fun! Keep the throttle on while shifting and you will see how easy and smooth it is....




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    Active Member Derek Paisley's Avatar
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    Default Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

    The only problem (if you can considerate it a problem) is that there is no clutch.
    While moving, you are always in gear.

    I have a 2012 RSS SE5 and love it!

  4. #4
    Registered Users JaymeG33's Avatar
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    While riding last summer with other fellow GS/RS owners, the automatics seemed to run hotter on the temp gauge than the manuals. We couldn't contribute it to any other factors. There were 3 manuals & 2 autos in our group & both automatics ran much hotter, at least 2 bars higher on the gauge.

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    Very Active Member spydaman60's Avatar
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    it's all a matter of personal preference! I wouldn't be without the sm5! just love the feeling of dropping it and popping it!

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    I am new to Spyders and the forum. I rode both and felt much more comfortable with the manual, of course I have been riding motorcycles over 40 years and do not plan on getting rid of my regular rides just yet. Feel it will be much easier and more natural when switching back and forth between rides. Of course I prefer a manual shuttle over HST on my tractors too, beginning to sense a pattern here...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaymeG33 View Post
    While riding last summer with other fellow GS/RS owners, the automatics seemed to run hotter on the temp gauge than the manuals. We couldn't contribute it to any other factors. There were 3 manuals & 2 autos in our group & both automatics ran much hotter, at least 2 bars higher on the gauge.
    Good to read that as I have some concerns over the heat issue, hope it is the case!

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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    About the only main difference I see is you will save $1,500 or so if you go with a SM5.

    I have owned four ,s. The first came with the SM5 because that is all that was available. The next three were all SE5's.

    Did not miss the manual shifting. I have only had one glitch with the SE5 in 50,000 plus miles. The shift linkage disconnected on my 2010 RT.

    The way I drive, (conservative, no burn outs, average 5 mph over posted on highways), I did not notice any performance issues, or mileage issues.

    The SE5 is actually fun once you get used to it. Don't miss the SM5 here at all.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  9. #9
    Very Active Member daveinva's Avatar
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    Learned on a SM5, bought an SE5. Love love love the SE5, it's part of what makes a Spyder a Spyder.

    On two wheels, I like having the clutch because there are countless times where it comes in handy to slip the clutch in low-speed maneuvers. On three wheels-- where slow speed maneuvers don't risk dropping the Spyder-- there's no need for that kind of finesse.

    And, as a practical matter, the SE5 shifts *faster* than the SM5, and it doesn't hurt performance, i.e. the advantages you'd see on an MT versus AT with a *car* for example aren't there on the Spyder. If the SM5 was faster or sipped less fuel then it'd be a debate, but as the wise man above just said, the only advantage is that it's cheaper on Day One.

    For the record, I much prefer having a manual transmission on a car than an auto, am partial to having the manual clutch on a bike (although scooters can be fun), but on the Spyder, the SE5 is just a joy to use, and lets me focus completely on the ride (one less hand to cramp, one less foot to fumble with, etc., etc.).
    Silver 2010 RS SE5: Triple Play, Taillight, Brightsides, Fender Tips, Easy Risers; Evo Sway Bar; Airhawk R & Beadrider; latch springs; Grab-On grips; Crampbuster; 24" Madstad smoke windshield & deflectors; N-R round bag & soft saddlebags; BRP handlebar bag; Throttlemeister; Spyderpops Missing Air Dam & Air Mgmt System; Rivco driver & passenger boards & pegs; ISCI parking brake extension; Ultimate Midrider Seat w/both backrests, Fox Racing Shocks, Yoshi R-77 exhaust and a whole lotta love!

  10. #10
    Very Active Member MidLifeCrisis's Avatar
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    Default Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

    SEs cost more to maintain are more complicated and more reports of various failures. Not a high rate of failures anymore, but something to think about.

    Slowing down in turns is different. SEs shift quick, so they grab real quick if your trying to simulate gently slowing around corners. That takes a bit of getting used to.

    They don't cost as well, if the engine kills either. My kill switch went bad and everything went dead in the middle if a turn through a busy intersection. I pulled in the clutch and rolled through. I know the SEs clutches disengage in certain RPMs too, but I personally prefer having control in emergencies. Can't beet the relaxation of an SE though in traffic.

  11. #11
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Have the SE 5 and am very happy with it(great to tour with). Also ride a two wheeler and have had zero issues transitioning.

    It's just another choice you get to make and a buck or two you can spend, or save. In the end you'll be happy with your choice. And that's what counts.


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

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    The clutches in the SE 5 trannys don't fully lock up until you get them up to about 4000 rpm... If you loaf along with the clutches slipping; you'll burn them.
    The SM 5 trannys don't have this setup, so it's not an issue with them...

    But I sure do love my ESSIE!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Registered Users DynamoBT's Avatar
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    Love my SM5!! I feel more involved in the overall action of the machine. Like to drive a stick in a car too. Makes me more "in" the process. Tried the SE5 once at a demo at low speeds and did not like it. Felt the Spyder was "driving me" not me it. I suppose I would get used to it. You just have to try both and see which you like.
    Marilyn

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    Very Active Member daveinva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidLifeCrisis View Post
    SEs cost more to maintain


    The only "extra" cost is ensuring my oil is topped off...
    Silver 2010 RS SE5: Triple Play, Taillight, Brightsides, Fender Tips, Easy Risers; Evo Sway Bar; Airhawk R & Beadrider; latch springs; Grab-On grips; Crampbuster; 24" Madstad smoke windshield & deflectors; N-R round bag & soft saddlebags; BRP handlebar bag; Throttlemeister; Spyderpops Missing Air Dam & Air Mgmt System; Rivco driver & passenger boards & pegs; ISCI parking brake extension; Ultimate Midrider Seat w/both backrests, Fox Racing Shocks, Yoshi R-77 exhaust and a whole lotta love!

  15. #15
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    We've come to find around here that the SM is simpler, and more forgiving to changes such as pipes, air filters and tuners. The SE is more complex, can be finicky with oil level and electronics, and doesn't always play nice with the same setups that work well on the SM machines.
    The SE is easier to ride for sure and takes less thought. The SM is more old school.

    Personally, I'm a fan of the SM as I grew up on 2 wheels shifting gears. It just feels right to me. My wife would be more comfortable on the SE. But it's really a personal choice. One really isn't significantly better or worse than the other.....

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    Very Active Member BikerDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaymeG33 View Post
    While riding last summer with other fellow GS/RS owners, the automatics seemed to run hotter on the temp gauge than the manuals. We couldn't contribute it to any other factors. There were 3 manuals & 2 autos in our group & both automatics ran much hotter, at least 2 bars higher on the gauge.
    I have owned both the manual & the seemi auto and experienced no difference in run temps
    220,000 Mile Spyder Ryder, IBA Premier member #59352, Saddlesore 1000 (11), Bun Burner 1500 (3), Saddlesore 2000 (2), Bun Burner Gold, MILEEATER SILVER

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    Not having an SE I can't comment. But what is the failsafe mode if say your throttle gets stuck wide open? Not like there's a clutch to pull in, is there? How do you find neutral instantly before you run into something? If you hit the kill switch does the rear tire instantly lock up?
    When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
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  18. #18
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by asp125 View Post
    Not having an SE I can't comment. But what is the failsafe mode if say your throttle gets stuck wide open? Not like there's a clutch to pull in, is there? How do you find neutral instantly before you run into something? If you hit the kill switch does the rear tire instantly lock up?
    The engine STOP switch. BRP even suggests it be used to stop the engine before turning the key off. It's a good habit to get into, and may, save your bacon.


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerbear View Post
    The engine STOP switch. BRP even suggests it be used to stop the engine before turning the key off. It's a good habit to get into, and may, save your bacon.
    Good to know. I have that habit from my two wheeled machines.
    When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
    Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
    Sold List: 97 Ninja500R, 03 SV650K3, 01 Ducati 750Sport Dark, 73 CB350/4, 03 F650GSA, 08 Gixxer600, 03 Gixxer600, 91 VFR750F, 09 KLX250, 06 Thruxton 900, 08 Spyder RS , 12 Street TripleR, 15 RC390, 02 VFR800, 09 KLX250S, 10 F650GS
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    ... Motorcycles are kind of like Baskin Robbins... You're looking at 31 flavors of ice cream, don't you kind of want to know what they all taste like?...
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  20. #20
    Very Active Member MidLifeCrisis's Avatar
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    Default Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

    Quote Originally Posted by daveinva View Post


    The only "extra" cost is ensuring my oil is topped off...
    I was referring to the filter and additional labor charges at oil changes and any other adjustment or calibration requirements.

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    I Have both-09SE5 and 2012RT Manual.
    I love having both _Keeps my brain busy- Like the downshifting around corners on the manual- Only thing I could do without on the Manual is the Initial start in 1st gear? Would not win a drag race with it.

    SE5 is Also great and requires little thought so I can "Day Dream" More- Fast as L through the gears BUT have to change 2 filters.

    If somneone GAVE me $1,500 dollars the day I bought the RT I would have got another Auto BUT that being said I,m happy I have the Opportunity to drive Auto one day and Manual the next day!!!!!!!!!

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  22. #22
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    The clutches in the SE 5 trannys don't fully lock up until you get them up to about 4000 rpm... If you loaf along with the clutches slipping; you'll burn them.
    The SM 5 trannys don't have this setup, so it's not an issue with them...

    But I sure do love my ESSIE!
    I hate to be nit picky Bob but the published stall speed on the SE5 centrifugal is 3200 +/-200 rpm. So you can be assured it is not slipping at 3400 rpm and above. But 4000 rpm is important because when you up shift at that rpm it will drop 600 to 3400 rpm and there is no margin left.

    Clutch Speed.jpg

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  23. #23
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    I hate to be nit picky Bob but the published stall speed on the SE5 centrifugal is 3200 +/-200 rpm. So you can be assured it is not slipping at 3400 rpm and above. But 4000 rpm is important because when you up shift at that rpm it will drop 600 to 3400 rpm and there is no margin left.

    Clutch Speed.jpg
    It will drop more than that in some gears, so 4,500 is safer. Although we can nit-pic the stall point and shift points, for most owners it is safest just to round off the numbers to the nearest 500.
    -Scotty
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  24. #24
    Very Active Member daveinva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidLifeCrisis View Post
    I was referring to the filter and additional labor charges at oil changes and any other adjustment or calibration requirements.
    Oh, that? How much does that cost when compared to draining and replacing the clutch fluid, both done on two year cycles?

    We're nit-picking by anecdote here.
    Silver 2010 RS SE5: Triple Play, Taillight, Brightsides, Fender Tips, Easy Risers; Evo Sway Bar; Airhawk R & Beadrider; latch springs; Grab-On grips; Crampbuster; 24" Madstad smoke windshield & deflectors; N-R round bag & soft saddlebags; BRP handlebar bag; Throttlemeister; Spyderpops Missing Air Dam & Air Mgmt System; Rivco driver & passenger boards & pegs; ISCI parking brake extension; Ultimate Midrider Seat w/both backrests, Fox Racing Shocks, Yoshi R-77 exhaust and a whole lotta love!

  25. #25
    Very Active Member MidLifeCrisis's Avatar
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    Default Advantages/Disadvantages of Auto or manual Transmissions?

    Quote Originally Posted by daveinva View Post
    Oh, that? How much does that cost when compared to draining and replacing the clutch fluid, both done on two year cycles?

    We're nit-picking by anecdote here.
    Not sure. Just posting what the service department told me. Not trying to say mine's better than yours. Just helping the OP decide. If I'm way off base, than I stand corrected. There are others way more experienced and knowledgable than me on this forum who could chime in. There's however no way to deny the SE is more complicated. With complication comes other caveats. That's not to say the SE Isn't an equally good choice and for some the only way they could even ride.


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