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  1. #1
    Registered Users l0ckman's Avatar
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    Default Update clutch problem

    Got it back everything seem good. $900 +, and they still say it's my fault.

    Michael

  2. #2
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    (If I may ask... )
    What did they say you were doing to it to monkey it up?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Yeah..!!

    How did you mess it up..??
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  4. #4
    Registered Users l0ckman's Avatar
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    Keeping the rpm's to low. They say even when the clutch lever is all the way out, it does not fully engage until 3 to 4 thousand rpm.

    Michael

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by l0ckman View Post
    Keeping the rpm's to low. They say even when the clutch lever is all the way out, it does not fully engage until 3 to 4 thousand rpm.

    Michael
    I find that hard to believe. I'd like someone from BRP or elsewhere to explain precisely how that happens and what components control such an arrangement.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  6. #6
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by l0ckman View Post
    Keeping the rpm's to low. They say even when the clutch lever is all the way out, it does not fully engage until 3 to 4 thousand rpm.

    Michael
    Total BS! Clutch springs are clutch springs, and there is no centrifugal engagement mechanism on the SM to bring the clutch in harder. It would not be covered anyway, as the plates and discs are a named exclusion in the warranty, but to spread crap like that as an excuse is just not right. I hoped they checked your clutch assist solenoid. That is the most likely cause of premature clutch failure for an SM, other than abuse.

    On the plus side, if they put in the new clutch pack with the extra disc, you should have smooth sailing from here on out...if your clutch assist solenoid is operating correctly..
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  7. #7
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Thumbs down I have a very LOW tolerance for shops like this

    Time to find someone else to care for your Spyder if they are that out of touch, or even worse. If they know better and are simply lying to you. just my 2c


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  8. #8
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    Scotty's right; they're feeding you a line of hooey!
    The ESSEM's clutches lock up fully once you let go of the clutch lever; unlike the ESSIEs, which do need some rpm to lock up...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Registered Users l0ckman's Avatar
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    Default Just to make it clear mine is an manual shift...

    They did show me a print out from the "BUDS" that showed that I spent most of my rpm's below 4500 (60% of the time).

    Not sure if that is good or bad (they say bad), to me that sounds like I do not speed, 4000 rpm is 55 mph.

    So I will shift at 5000 rpm or above and see how that goes, it does seem high to me now I guess I will get used to it. I do not want to replace the clutch again, and besides it seems not to be a big problem out there so it must be my problem not the spyder's.

    Thanks for all the input and good will, I will try to do better.

    Michael

  10. #10
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    You should shift higher than that these motors love rpm and you're not going to hurt anything by revving it. If your worried about speed keep it in a lower gear.

  11. #11
    Thinks out loud Jeriatric's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by CatsJ35 View Post
    You should shift higher than that these motors love rpm and you're not going to hurt anything by revving it. If your worried about speed keep it in a lower gear.
    Well said


    Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Sarge707's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by l0ckman View Post
    They did show me a print out from the "BUDS" that showed that I spent most of my rpm's below 4500 (60% of the time).

    Not sure if that is good or bad (they say bad), to me that sounds like I do not speed, 4000 rpm is 55 mph.

    So I will shift at 5000 rpm or above and see how that goes, it does seem high to me now I guess I will get used to it. I do not want to replace the clutch again, and besides it seems not to be a big problem out there so it must be my problem not the spyder's.

    Thanks for all the input and good will, I will try to do better.

    Michael
    On the RT I use 3rd gear on secondary roads right up to 50 MPH- More than that 4th gear- 5th NOT until 60 MPH?
    Try it and you will notice the engine will be happier!!!

    2015 F3 sm6, Custom Dynamics fender lights.

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  13. #13
    Very Active Member jthornton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by l0ckman View Post
    Keeping the rpm's to low. They say even when the clutch lever is all the way out, it does not fully engage until 3 to 4 thousand rpm.

    Michael
    "They" may be talking about the SE5 transmission and it locks up at 3200RPM but it doesn't have a clutch lever...

    John

  14. #14
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    The upside: try driving with the rpm's higher as suggested. The spyder seems to like that 4500-5500 "happy spot". You are always at the power point. It takes some getting used to. Around town in 2nd or 3rd. Highway 55 mph in 4th gear. Not going to 5th until you are on the highway at 65 mph or so.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

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  15. #15
    Banged Up Member MouthPiece's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    The upside: try driving with the rpm's higher as suggested. The spyder seems to like that 4500-5500 "happy spot". You are always at the power point. It takes some getting used to. Around town in 2nd or 3rd. Highway 55 mph in 4th gear. Not going to 5th until you are on the highway at 65 mph or so.
    "Or so" would be 70 mph for me.

    Chris

  16. #16
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    Default Interesting, but some how hard to believe.

    When I ride 2 up with my wife on the back, I tend not to rag it. I drive conservatively. Real smooth acceleration and shifting. I probably shift around 3500-4500 rpm. spend most of my time in 3rd or 4th gear round town. Never thought I would be hurting the bike. Even when it's just me on the bike going through residential areas I tend to keep the rpms lower than normal and run at lower rpms. I don't like sounding like I am going fast when I am not. I have my moments when I accelerate and shift aggressively at higher rpm usually on shifts between 3 and 4 or 4 and 5 gears. Hate to think on days when I am feeling mellow and like being a Sunday driver, I am actually hurting the bike. This may make me consider the way I ride. My wife made me promise her I wouldn't drive hard core. She had no sense of ha ha, when see caught me doing 160 kmph on the highway (100 mph). Still find it hard to believe that shifting at low rpm can lead to premature clutch burn out.

  17. #17
    Very Active Member BikerDoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Can-Am Poogs View Post
    When I ride 2 up with my wife on the back, I tend not to rag it. I drive conservatively. Real smooth acceleration and shifting. I probably shift around 3500-4500 rpm. spend most of my time in 3rd or 4th gear round town. Never thought I would be hurting the bike. Even when it's just me on the bike going through residential areas I tend to keep the rpms lower than normal and run at lower rpms. I don't like sounding like I am going fast when I am not. I have my moments when I accelerate and shift aggressively at higher rpm usually on shifts between 3 and 4 or 4 and 5 gears. Hate to think on days when I am feeling mellow and like being a Sunday driver, I am actually hurting the bike. This may make me consider the way I ride. My wife made me promise her I wouldn't drive hard core. She had no sense of ha ha, when see caught me doing 160 kmph on the highway (100 mph). Still find it hard to believe that shifting at low rpm can lead to premature clutch burn out.
    The rotax engine was designed for a racing bike, not the Spyder.. What is hard to believe about something being damaged if you use it in a fashion other than the way it was designed to be used for?
    220,000 Mile Spyder Ryder, IBA Premier member #59352, Saddlesore 1000 (11), Bun Burner 1500 (3), Saddlesore 2000 (2), Bun Burner Gold, MILEEATER SILVER

  18. #18
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    Default whats wrong with taking it easy.

    Quote Originally Posted by BikerDoc View Post
    The rotax engine was designed for a racing bike, not the Spyder.. What is hard to believe about something being damaged if you use it in a fashion other than the way it was designed to be used for?
    I just find it hard to believe when I don't abuse a motor an clutch system and pamper it, I am causing damaging to it. I can go hard core on a bike just like the next guy. Looking forward to it. I agree with what has been posted. The Rotax has a sweet spot between 5000 and 8000 rpm where it just purrs.

  19. #19
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    RE: Hard core--I don't think anyone would call me hard core when it comes to driving the and trying to eke out performance and speed. The ranges I was suggesting are more than what I did at first--around 3800 rpms or so--just above the point where the semi auto is supposed to catch. As mentioned before, it took a little getting used to, but, I do feel the performs better.

    There are also some earlier posts about running the at redline continuously. Not recommended by all--but adhered to by some.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  20. #20
    Active Member 2 Cruysyn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MouthPiece View Post
    "Or so" would be 70 mph for me.
    Ditto MouthPiece.

    I start thinking about fifth gear when I'm above 65 headed for 70, or whatever.


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