boy, that fuel door is a great idea.. are there any pics showing the fuel door open? or maybe a pic from below? .. i am assuming the seat still travels up and down if needed..
i would be installing this on a 2014 rs .. thanks guys ... chuckk ..
I am considering doing the same thing. Love the hot nail suggestion for the screw holes. I found this guys site when I googled before finding this thread, just another example, and it has a link to the billet door on amazon, $20. http://www.spyderrt.info/u-do-it
There were some earlier reports (I think it was Inspector Gadget) that the metal door transmitted too much heat from the 998 and you needed to put some sort of insulation over the door so you didn't burn your thigh.
How's the door working our for you on the 1330 ?
I really like the idea. I'm starting to ride two up more often and getting gas dislodges my passenger.
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks for resurrecting this thread!
A picture of mine:
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
A how to video on how to install a gas door would be most popular.
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Bob, I don't think you need to do this.........BUT - if you do .......heat up a large NAIL red hot and do it while the door is on with the other bolts in ..............Mike
You can install a fuel door in your seat for FREE
All you do is remove the seat and on the fuel cap side Cut the plastic
from the top down DO NOT CUT THROUGH UPHOLSTERY, only the plastic
you have just made a fuel door it is now using the foam and upholstery
for a hinge. now put it back on and enjoy not having to get your passenger
get off to gas up . There are a bunch of folks here on the forum who have
done this mod and love it. It's easy and FREE. I don't have a picture handy
but I am sure some one here will be happy to post one here for all to see.
Ride Safe
Dave
Last edited by Motorcycledave; 06-18-2016 at 07:54 PM.
The inside diameter of hole is 4.5 inches......all the doors sold have a different inside diameter...this one is 4.5 inches, if you dont buy this particular one the measurement might be different...my waiver...
I can show you with pictures how to do it for FREE
Originally Posted by 2Paw
Could someone who has one of the custom seats tell me the overall diameter of the fuel door as well as the diameter of the opening. I am thinking of adding one to my stock seat as a DIY project.
You can buy doors at some parts stores or online, but I'm not sure what size it needs to be.
There were some earlier reports (I think it was Inspector Gadget) that the metal door transmitted too much heat from the 998 and you needed to put some sort of insulation over the door so you didn't burn your thigh.
How's the door working our for you on the 1330 ?
I really like the idea. I'm starting to ride two up more often and getting gas dislodges my passenger.
Well I've had a matte black one on for a few years now .... I've never noticed it being warm / hot ..... of course I've never worn shorts while riding ....just blue jeans .......... Mike
I can show you with pictures how to do it for FREE
thanks but I cut 4.5 in.hole tonight, perfect placement, just need long countersunk 1/4 -20 screws with nylon self locking nuts
havent figured out how long yet...drilled 2 holes and quit, got too hot to do anymore at 108deg
hardest part was mentally deciding to cut a hole in a $ 700 seat
finished sort of DYI Fuel Door Modification RTS2016
two screws need to be shorter two on left side top...fix tomorrow, not scratching but close enough to cause me concern. Thank you for the advice. The hardest part was picking up the hole saw and committing to cut my seat. Get powdered coated black if you do it...the paint is already coming off around screw hole, I will touch up. With plether pulled back attached door drilled holes, removed door put plether back used ice pic inside to outside for screwhole placement through plether.
Last edited by marty1096; 09-15-2017 at 12:16 PM.
Reason: addition
thanks but I cut 4.5 in.hole tonight, perfect placement, just need long countersunk 1/4 -20 screws with nylon self locking nuts
havent figured out how long yet...drilled 2 holes and quit, got too hot to do anymore at 108deg
hardest part was mentally deciding to cut a hole in a $ 700 seat
4.5 inch hole saw with arbor. Do a starter hole first
hole size dependent on inside diameter of the fuel door purchased.
the fuel door inside diameter are all different depending on model purchased.
the link for hole saw and fuel door are in this thread
you also need, for better word, a drill adapter. I bought from Lowe
I cut with seat up, outside to inside with neighbor holding seat for me.
My friend cut his seat inside to outside
your choice
I am considering doing the same thing. Love the hot nail suggestion for the screw holes. I found this guys site when I googled before finding this thread, just another example, and it has a link to the billet door on amazon, $20. http://www.spyderrt.info/u-do-it
The text below is straight from 'Inspector Gadget' website. I intend to follow that pretty closely, with some slight changes suggested by BlueKnight911
Installing this Bully GD-301P Billet Aluminum Fuel Door was a bit of a challenge, but once I determined the exact location it worked out well.
1. After positioning it on the seat where indicated I used an Awl to punch holes where the bolts would go and then drill with a small (1/16") bit.
2. Then from the inside carefully drill 1/4" out through just the seat pan.
3. Now you can place the 1/8" aluminum backing ring that you have cut, drilled, and tapped to 1/4 X 20 and mark out for the pan cut out.
4. I used a demal with a wheel on it to cut the hole (see photo for size) in the seat pan and then cut the foam with a knife, being careful no to cut into the seat vinyl
5. Carefully cut the vinyl seat covering from the center making several pie shaped pieces, but do NOT cut all the way out to the hole edge, but just enough to make the vinyl roll over to the inside.
6. Using a stapler, pull the vinyl to the inside of the hole and fasten securely as shown in the photo.
7. Insert the bolts through the Fuel Door-through the seat pan, and now thread into the inside backing ring and tighten. Note the 1 long bolt and lock nut placement in the photo.
8. Made sure you cut the bolts just past flush with the backing ring so they will not protrude to far in or they will hit and scratch the tupperware when closing the seat.
Click on any photo to get a larger view. (Note from UtahPete go to his website http://www.spyderrt.info/u-do-it for the pics....too much trouble trying to post them here)
Fuel Door Update: I really love the fuel door for its convenience and looks, but I found that the fuel door itself gets rather hot either from the engine heat or from the black color drawing in heat from the sun----so much so that at times it really burns the inside of my leg. Not wanting to give up my fuel door I fabricated a pot holder (for the lack of a better name) and it works very well. As you can see in the photos I can still access the fuel door by flipping the pot holder and placing it under the glove box lit. It is just slid in between the seat and tupperware and can be removed easily when I don't want it to be seen. It is covered with the same material that the seat is made from, but you could use just about anything to provide a different decoration as long as you use some batting material for the insulation. I used 4 layers of quilt batting.
Hi Pete I was wondering how you were coming on that project. Glad you got it done. I used tee nuts to hold mine in place instead of making a ring. Post a pix when you can. Good job DIY.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
Hi Pete I was wondering how you were coming on that project. Glad you got it done. I used tee nuts to hold mine in place instead of making a ring. Post a pix when you can. Good job DIY.
Yep " T " nuts are the way to go ..... the following year after this thread I began doing the Fuel Door as a vendor .... I had to come up with a much simpler method for doing them and I did...... There are other posts for my " streamlined method " on how I learned to do it easier. Using " T " nuts was one of them. .... I also decided to make the first two holes by positioning the door RING against the seat and using the HOT nail to start the top an bottom holes ... then they could be safely drilled .... Then using 1 1/2 x 1/4 in. bolts to COMPRESS the Ring onto the seat .... this makes doing the rest of the holes much easier and accurate, and while using the " T " nuts , you can use your final short bolts to assemble the finished product. Those " T " nuts surface are only 1/32 nd of an inch thick so scratching the paint won't happen ...... good luck .... Mike
Hi Pete I was wondering how you were coming on that project. Glad you got it done. I used tee nuts to hold mine in place instead of making a ring. Post a pix when you can. Good job DIY.
Paul, my post was just my way of resurrecting that old thread. I have started on the project and when I'm done will start a new D-I-Y thread showing the steps involved.
Mike, I like your idea of melting the holes in the foam and fabric so they don't get torn up by the drill bit. I'll probably use my soldering iron for that.
I did finish installing the billet arm on Jane's bike. I could do a write up on that, too, at some point. And the dual WOLO horns on my bike and the new lighted bumpskid on Jane's. I don't know if you saw the one I did about installing solar power on the Lees-Ure Lite trailer. I feel like a teenager customizing his first car. Fun!
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Originally Posted by chuckk
.......heat up a large NAIL red hot and do it while the door is on with the other bolts in 
Watching somebody do the cutting out, would be pretty darn useful. 
Just kidding
What tools did you use to cut the hole?
