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Very Active Member
Brake Bleeding
The brakes on my RT have always felt a bit spongy and my pedel travel is becoming excessive so I thought I would adjust the pedel and bleed the brakes until I read the manual. I have done a lot of brake bleeding in my time but I have never seen such a complicated proceedure and it says I have to use BUDDS as well. Has anyone done a basic brake bleed with out using budds? I have a 1 man brake pump that I just purchased but not sure how this would work with this system.
Regards,
Randy
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Motorbike Professor
While I don't believe in an owner bleeding the brakes themselves on a Spyder (or any other modern ABS vehicle), be sure not to turn on the ignition from start to finish if you do so. It will cause problems that can only be rectified via BUDS...and possibly additional bleeding. BTW, you will not be able to bleed the ABS module without the computer...just like other ABS vehicle.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Thanks for that, good warning about the ignition switch.
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Don't you have to bleed the brakes when you change pads?
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
I think removing the brake light switch prior to the work might be a good idea too.
Its not the brake light switch, its the other one. A brake low pressure switch that kicks in when then pedal travels too far(such as when you bleed the brakes). If you do it DO NOT turn the key on until you are done. Take your time and start at the back then the front wheels. This will at least change the fluid and maybe get some air out. But you will not be able to do a great job of it because you can't kick the ABS in.
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Very Active Member
I had the same ...spongy brakes....and the shop wanted 3 hrs labor but finally cut me a deal for $175. This was last year and I haven't had any prob since.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
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2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
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2019 Slingshot
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
No.
The hydraulic system does not normally need be bled for routine maintenance.
Better take another look at your maintenance schedule.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Well for now I only adjusted the height of the pedal. I also pumped the breaks about 30 times in a row and now the break pedal feels firm but I need to take it on a test ride to see if its any better.
Last edited by bluestratos; 02-25-2013 at 01:13 PM.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
EDIT:
That was in response to a question about bleeding brakes everytime the pads were replaced.
I don't think that is recommended.
I meant brake pad replacement doesn't usually require brake bleeding.
That's better. The brake system does require periodic flushing/bleeding...aka fluid replacement.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Been through all this already
Hello
I have 2008 GS. I have been through the whole show with the repairs on brakes. And, after much involvement from brp a bunch of diagnosis the sponge brakes are actually going to need a new master cylinder. So, I wish they would have just done that first instead of all this maybe this will fix it stuff that BRP has the dealers do!
my advise is don't mess with the bleeding of the system it only ends up costing more.
And, I hope you all save yourselves a lot of expense and just replace the master cylinder. Also, when pushing the peddle does go the tinyest bit more after you think you pushed it to the stop point? It is hard to tell but if you know your bike then you can notice. If so, most likely the master. That parts like diagnosing a car. I was scared to diagnose but now I have had enough BRP processes to last me a life time.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by bluestratos
The brakes on my RT have always felt a bit spongy and my pedel travel is becoming excessive so I thought I would adjust the pedel and bleed the brakes until I read the manual. I have done a lot of brake bleeding in my time but I have never seen such a complicated proceedure and it says I have to use BUDDS as well. Has anyone done a basic brake bleed with out using budds? I have a 1 man brake pump that I just purchased but not sure how this would work with this system.
Regards,
Randy
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Originally Posted by bluestratos
The brakes on my RT have always felt a bit spongy and my pedel travel is becoming excessive so I thought I would adjust the pedel and bleed the brakes until I read the manual. I have done a lot of brake bleeding in my time but I have never seen such a complicated proceedure and it says I have to use BUDDS as well. Has anyone done a basic brake bleed with out using budds? I have a 1 man brake pump that I just purchased but not sure how this would work with this system.
Regards,
Randy
I did mine when I changed my pad this spring, I made sure that I didn't turn the key on until I was done and had no problems, don't know if it works but I found a gravel road and hit the brakes to make the antilock come on several times to get new fuild into the abs system.
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After two years of riding, I had a spongy brake pedal this spring. Knowing how touchy the Spyder is with the brake system and the need to bleed the ABS system, I just had Caswell's in Mora, MN do the bleed when they did the 9300 mile checkup (13000 miles). Got the bike back with a nice firm brake pedal and no nasty messages on the screen on the way home.
It was easier for me just to pay to have it done properly and not have any issues. But that is just me!
Gunner
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Very Active Member
While a basic brake flush and bleed can be done without BUDS if you follow all the 'rules' and avoid all the pitfalls, it is much easier to do it right and complete with the help of BUDS.
BUDS is a tool. If you are going to work on your spyder you need the right tools or pay someone that does. Anyone can buy BUDS. It costs more than a socket set but a whole lot less than paying for all the service. But its not for everyone. Its a decision many choose not to buy, for good reason.
Last edited by jcthorne; 06-04-2017 at 07:08 AM.
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Brake bleed
Originally Posted by bluestratos
The brakes on my RT have always felt a bit spongy and my pedel travel is becoming excessive so I thought I would adjust the pedel and bleed the brakes until I read the manual. I have done a lot of brake bleeding in my time but I have never seen such a complicated proceedure and it says I have to use BUDDS as well. Has anyone done a basic brake bleed with out using budds? I have a 1 man brake pump that I just purchased but not sure how this would work with this system.
Regards,
Randy
I bled my brakes with no problem. 2014 RT. I use a brake bleeder with a check valve in it so one person can do the job. Be advised that the resovor doe's not hold that much so keep an eye on it and keep it full. My brake fluid was very black, and that's without many miles on the machine.....
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Originally Posted by manxman
I use a brake bleeder with a check valve in it so one person can do the job.
What bleeder would this be?
Eckhard
Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
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Very Active Member
google "check valve brake bleeder".s-l640.jpg
2015 RTS Special Series
Russell Day Long seat
F4 Customs windshield
Sena 20s
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What about leakage from the threads of the bleeder?
Eckhard
Spyder RT Ltd, 2011
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Very Active Member
I just cracked the bleeders enough for the fluid to come out with some pressure on the pedal. No fluid leaked out of the threads, so I continued and when I was done I had a full pedal again.
2015 RTS Special Series
Russell Day Long seat
F4 Customs windshield
Sena 20s
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Very Active Member
Jus received my check valve today. Plan on bleeding clutch and brakes this weekend. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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Very Active Member
If a 2nd person is available--just have them hold pressure on the brake pedal starting from the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder--with the pedal depressed slightly open the caliper bleeding screw until a bit of fluid(approx 1/4 oz) comes out & then tighten the bleeding screw, all done with the brake pedal being depressed. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't become empty during the brake bleeding process which can happen if excessive fluid is bled out of the calipers. .
UNFORTUNATELY I owned a business named Brake Express in Calif for 7 yrs. The only vehicle we ever had a problem with was a few of the Dodge which required pumping the brake pedal 40 times--Not 35, after we finished, The Dodge had a brake accumulator in the ABS section & it required the additional 40 pumps on the brake pedal to solve & complete the process.
Darrell
CAUTION: Brake fluid eats paint. You can poor or spray oil or gasoline on your paint job & it will clean off--especially with a waxing compound. If you happen to let a few drops of "BRAKE FLUID" spray on your paint--nothing short of a new paint job will cure the problem.
2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black
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