Is Can Am aware that some 2013 RT's have severe handling issues?

[chris56]

hope your RT is technical OK ?!? - if I teach a biker (the other ones like my kids have no problem) how to ryde - I first tell him that he will NOT be able to make a straight line on the road, and I`m always right with that
second is I tell him that there are some one-arm Ryders (also here in Europe) so try to drive with one arm only ...
I needed thousend !! miles to follow my friends with their (BMW) bikes on our mountain-tours here in the alps & wouldn`t change back to 2-wheelers
greetings from AUSTRIA

[bruiser]

I'm going to throw another wrench in the fan blade. No one has mentioned that this could be a build issue from the dealer. If they didn't assemble the beast correctly or left something loose. I'm sure by now your head is spinning with all the responses. Get used to it. That my friend is Spyderlovers in action. By the way, not trying to sound funny but the faster I drive my 2012 RTS the smoother it runs.

[Bob Denman]

Good point! Dealer setup can make or break the experience!

[NancysToy]

I'm going to throw another wrench in the fan blade. No one has mentioned that this could be a build issue from the dealer. If they didn't assemble the beast correctly or left something loose. I'm sure by now your head is spinning with all the responses. Get used to it. That my friend is Spyderlovers in action. By the way, not trying to sound funny but the faster I drive my 2012 RTS the smoother it runs.

The only thing they assemble for the suspension and steering is to bolt on the wheels, as far as I know.

[Bob Denman]

But they should also take it for a test ride to make sure that all is hunky-dory;right?

[BajaRon]

But they should also take it for a test ride to make sure that all is hunky-dory;right?

They should but some customers get upset when they see 10-15 miles on their 'Brand New' machine. Not sure if this is just a good excuse for the dealer to get out of a pre-delivery test or if it's just not worth the grief.

[NancysToy]

A test ride is no longer a part of the PDI protocol, to the best of my knowledge. It is quite impractical in the northern climates, and as Ron said, it aggravates some owners.

[Bob Denman]

I dunno; it just seems that a dealer that's serious about his business might at least ask a buyer if he would mind seeing a few miles on the odo in order to make sure that all is as it should be...
27 years ago; I worked as one of those guys who put together bikes for a Honda/Kawasaki dealership in a nearby Twon. (Trust me; they'd hire ANYBODY!) Nothing got out without some seat time being logged to make sure that the bike was gonna be a keeper.
But it WAS a long time ago... In a galaxy far away...

[Tin Man]

I have over 3000 miles since August on my 2012 RT. Didn't like the handling at all until i changed the air pressure to 20lbs on the front 28lbs on the rear tire and setting 5 on the front shocks. What a huge difference this made in handling in corners. Riding on the highway is still a struggle with this bike with all the air turbulence. I have a relaxed grip and all the others suggestions I've heard but it just doesn't handle good on the highway. All over the road, but when I'm on back roads with no side air turbulence I can do 75 mph and hold a nice straight line. Should be better than this on the highway for a tour model. Thinking of ordering Ron's stabilizer bar next to see if that helps.

[bruiser]

Scotty, when I got my 2012 RTS last June the test ride by the dealer was still part of the PDI. They had to put minimum of twelve miles on it . Then hook it to BUDS afterwards. Of course that was 6 months ago.

[NancysToy]

Scotty, when I got my 2012 RTS last June the test ride by the dealer was still part of the PDI. They had to put minimum of twelve miles on it . Then hook it to BUDS afterwards. Of course that was 6 months ago.

They may have reinstated it. In 2010, after a number of problems with the new RTs, they issued a dealer notice that added the test ride. About six months later (when winter rolled around) they cancelled that requirement. I was not aware they had reinstated it. Perhaps your dealer just feels it is important, and decided to retain it. Sounds like a good place to do business.

[SilverSurfer]

Not necessarily indemic to 2013s. There are some occasions with any Spyder that there may be a defect in the steering position sensor. Testing is a very specific procedure requiring BUDS. The defect can be due to the dealer build or before. It's true that moving from two to three wheels conveys a bit of shock ... lateral G's, vs. straight-down center of gravity and so on. If you can't reconcile what should only be a minor breaking-in/"get used to" period, I'd get your 2013 into the shop for a steering position sensor check. I'm even more suspect on the SPS in your case because the 2013s have undergone extensive improvements in front-end design that in previous models caused many of us to mod the shocks, install swaybars, etc.

You've got a great machine and I feel it warrants some qualified inspection.

Best,

~ Surfer

[NancysToy]

Not necessarily indemic to 2013s. There are some occasions with any Spyder that there may be a defect in the steering position sensor. Testing is a very specific procedure requiring BUDS. The defect can be due to the dealer build or before. It's true that moving from two to three wheels conveys a bit of shock ... lateral G's, vs. straight-down center of gravity and so on. If you can't reconcile what should only be a minor breaking-in/"get used to" period, I'd get your 2013 into the shop for a steering position sensor check. I'm even more suspect on the SPS in your case because the 2013s have undergone extensive improvements in front-end design that in previous models caused many of us to mod the shocks, install swaybars, etc.

You've got a great machine and I feel it warrants some qualified inspection.

Best,

~ Surfer

A steering sensor miscalibration can make a Spyder pull to one side, go into limp mode, suddenly "twitch" the bars at rest, or even cause sudden steering deviations under extreme conditions, but it will not make the Spyder wander (unless the rider fights it), or dart to both sides...only one. I expect the OP's problem lies elsewhere.

[Netminder]

I had 0 miles on my 2012 RT and I don't know wether it is the experience of riding my ATV, but I had none of the above issues with wobbles or alignment. I also have rode 2 wheelers most of my life. Maybe it is because I read alot hear before I bought, and also took a Spyder course before buying! I would defenitely have the dealer check it , it is a new machine and they should verify it is not mechanical (alignment) and once that is confirmed, you will feel more confident in adjusting your riding style.

[Ivorspyder]

I had only ridden 2 wheelers when I traded my Goldwing in on a 2012 RT.I was staying in Northern Michigan at the time and had just completed a 7000 mile trip on my Wing so my 1st ride was on twisty roads 2 lane roads.I never experienced any wobble but felt a very slight sway.My 2nd ride was with other motorcycles 200 miles of twisters.By the end of the day felt really good with the RT.
I paid attention to postings on this forum which were most helpful.I tightened my shocks to a 5 and air pressures of 28 in front and 30 in the back.
I now have done 6200 miles .Been on all sorts of roads and have had absolutely no problems.The RT rides great and I feel as comfortable with it as I did my Wing.I have extras on it like The Corbin seat and Seal Floorboards which makes the ryde really comfortable.I have ordered Baja Ron's swaybar which should improve what is already a good ride.
Hope you sort your problems out.

Ivor

[MouthPiece]

Getting back to the orginal posting of this thread on whether BRP was aware that some 2013's were out of allignment, this may (emphasis added like the original wording of this thread) be a problem, but I think it too early in the ball game and too small a sample to even say that if may be a major issue.

Seeing your dealer and tech is certainly warranted though.

Chris

[Raknid]

I am new to Spyders as well and found the ride disconcerting at first as well. As Tin Man states above ^^^^^ setting more tire pressure ( mine came from dealer @ 14 psi front) - and firming the ride adjustment made a world of difference at highway speeds and maintaining a clean line in spirited twisties. Hope that is all you are experiencing here. Good luck....

[flybuddy]

I too was frustrated by this and when I researched the issue the general response was "it's the ryder not the spyder". Unfortunately as I researched further I came across numerous threads that said things like:
I got Elka shocks and now it doesn't dart all over on the highway
I got an alignment and now tractor trailers don't blow me off the road anymore
I got a new CalSci windshield and it's more stable on the interstate
ETC, ETC..
The truth is that it's a combination of both as someone else also said. It takes a good amount of getting used. I would jump on the interstate for drives where I normally wouldn't for just an exit or two to build my experience. I also added air in tires, Elka shocks, Rons swaybar, lead in frunk, and CalSci windscreen. The windshield was interesting. It's wider and reduces the turbulence the rider feels from trucks, etc. This reduced overcontrolling (PIO--pilot induced oscillation). Another thing I believe happens is that the shape of the lower front coupled with the mini wings actually lifts some weight off of the front wheels making the steering more sensitive at high speeds. I've dabbled with some lift killers that have helped. It'll never be a GoldWing on the highway (it's a taildragger with the aerodynamics of a sledgehammer) but you can get to the point that you'll feel comfortable.

[azrn8285]

I had a nightmare for 8 months with my 2011 RT. I had uneven tire wear and new tires put on x2 but the dealer said the alignment was fine. I finally got another Spyder rider to take mine and I took his. His went down the interstate straight and was the best ride I had had on a Spyder. I cannot write here what he said about mine lol! I took it back in and told the dealership. Finally a new mechanic checked it and the alignment and toe in was all off. I now love my ride! So have someone else ride it and don't let the dealers tell you it is all you. It is way too dangerous and no fun to have this great bike wandering all over the road. Good Luck and Ride Safe! Anne

The above posts cover the subject well. A similar post covered the same problem and the consenses was that it could not be BRP--but probably the driver. Now the subject seems to be flip-flopped.

There appears to be a couple issues going on here.

My usual reply to new riders was to avoid the "death grip" and learn to give as little input into the as possible. Most of us on SL have gone through this same process when experiencing the for the first time. I drove two wheelers for over 40 years before getting on a and experienced the very same thing. I felt like I was not in "control". It took me a good 500 plus miles before I felt I was comfortable.

The second issue: perhaps some new 's did come from the factory that were not properly aligned. There appeared to be a lot of comments indicating this was a possibility. Another subject mentioned along these lines was possibility of out of round wheels, or bad tires. Another mentioned checking air pressure. All of the above could be a contributing factor to the situation.

IMO: Safety is paramount to the situation and caution is recommended. Try the exercises at low speed in a parking lot or some driving on roads where there is little to no traffic if possible. Work on your confidence and speed slowly. See the owners manual for specifics. If the problem still persists, a check of the by the dealer is warranted.

Please keep us posted. Hopefully, if mechanical, this is just a "new model" glitch that they will get solved very quickly.

[StanProff]

I test drove a Spyder RT twice over a period of about a year before buying. I also have 2 wheelers and have ridden for over 40 years. The learning curve doesn't come quick for some of us, When I purschased the Spyder My wife and I had a cross country trip planned but I vowed to put at least a couple of thousand miles on it before heading out. I also bought the 622 trailer and made many day rides (with the trailer loaded) to get accustomed to the handling before the big trip. By the time we left on the trip I had absoultly no worries with the spyder. The trip covered 4,500 miles and 12 states in a 17 day period. You WILL love the spyder if it is set up correctly and has no mechanical issues to hender your enjoyment. Hang in there, keep us posted.

[Mr. White]

May I offer my .03 to this thread. I had to ride several thousand miles to get used to BR1. I had 45K on my Gold Wing Motor Trike and they are TWO different animals.

Along with the other fine suggestions here, I offer that you should put 25 pounds of air in the front tires and 32 in the back....ride twenty miles and let two pounds out of the front and one out of the back....ride twenty miles again and again adjust pressures....find your own sweet spot...it will be different than others due to weight(s) of rider(s) shock settings...start with three and move up to four or five...it takes a little fooling around but you will be rewarded with a good handling and comfortable machine.

I ride alone and find 18 in front and 28 in the rear with four on my shocks gives me the ride I enjoy....try it, it can't hurt. This plus an alignment check should help and hopefully solve your problem.

[CurrantRyder]

I just took delivery of a 2013 RT Limited and was horrified at how dangerous its road handling is. Anything above 50 mph goes beyond scarey and after making an extended trip home, following delivery, I consider myself lucky to be alive.

Trucks passing, undulating pavement, mild cross winds, cause the machine to enter into a high speed wobble that is almost impossible to correct with steering inputs. I've been riding for more than 50 years and this is the worst experience on a road bike I've ever had. Trying to hold a steady line, without wandering side to side, is only possible for short distances. The mental attention it takes to hold the machine in your lane, on the interstate, is beyond description.

I hope Can Am is aware of this and corrects quickly before someone gets hurt, ...or worse.

After 530 miles, much of it highway, on my new 2013 RT, I think I've finally found why the machine exhibits instability at speed. As "KBFK" mentioned in another string, in this same forum, the sensitivity of the power steering, of some new 2013 models, seems to be more sensitive than older models. In further defining my experience, I am guessing that the electronic circut which governs variable assist (lowering steering sensitivity inputs as speed increases) is either defective or not programed correctly in my model, and perhaps other 2013 machines.

The effect is that the slightest movement of the handlebars causes the machine to get into a wobble when at highway speeds. At lower speeds, the steering is still very senstitive, but not as concerning as when at speed.

This may be a "one-off" issue with my machine, which I have an appointment next week to get checked out, or it may be a more widespread issue which has yet to fully mature as more riding experience with the 2013's unfold.

Bottom line: if you're getting serious about buying, or trading up to a 2013, I would recommend taking it out on the highway for a short test drive, and judge for yourself.

With that said, these are great machines. However, a re-program of the power steering may be necessary for the machine to reach it's ultimate purpose - that of a safe touring experience.

[flybuddy]

After 530 miles, much of it highway, on my new 2013 RT, I think I've finally found why the machine exhibits instability at speed. As "KBFK" mentioned in another string, in this same forum, the sensitivity of the power steering, of some new 2013 models, seems to be more sensitive than older models. In further defining my experience, I am guessing that the electronic circut which governs variable assist (lowering steering sensitivity inputs as speed increases) is either defective or not programed correctly in my model, and perhaps other 2013 machines.

The effect is that the slightest movement of the handlebars causes the machine to get into a wobble when at highway speeds. At lower speeds, the steering is still very senstitive, but not as concerning as when at speed.

This may be a "one-off" issue with my machine, which I have an appointment next week to get checked out, or it may be a more widespread issue which has yet to fully mature as more riding experience with the 2013's unfold.

Bottom line: if you're getting serious about buying, or trading up to a 2013, I would recommend taking it out on the highway for a short test drive, and judge for yourself.

With that said, these are great machines. However, a re-program of the power steering may be necessary for the machine to reach it's ultimate purpose - that of a safe touring experience.

I'm not sure that the older models are any different. Sounds exactly like how my 2012 RT handles. You get used to it but it is disconcerting. The wobble will only come from overcontrolling. This is why it feels worse when near an 18 wheeler, you're having to make lots of small corrections due to the turbulent airflow. I wish there were a way to shut off the power to the steering for highway travel.

[Bryk]

I have been following this thread closely as I am going to be taking ownership in March of a 2013 ST. I imagine it won't be anything like a motorcycle at highway speed with turbulent air. Those of us with 2 wheel experience in cross winds and going near tractor trailers are used to the bottom of the bike pulling out a bit, or getting blown out by the wind.

However with the spyder, much like a small car is easily effected on the highway. Then you throw in the fact that power steering wheels typically have a little bit of give to typically handle winds and turbulence/pulling from a tractor trailer. Now with handlebars as input, but the same effects as a car is going to be a unique experience. It will require fine tuning of the power steering, the rider becoming acclamated, and proper alignment. With the Spyder being so light weight, it is definitely going to require a lot of precision.

[CurrantRyder]

I'm not sure that the older models are any different. Sounds exactly like how my 2012 RT handles. You get used to it but it is disconcerting. The wobble will only come from overcontrolling. This is why it feels worse when near an 18 wheeler, you're having to make lots of small corrections due to the turbulent airflow. I wish there were a way to shut off the power to the steering for highway travel.

Again, I'm not ruling out driver error, but I've driven 2012's and although they were "precise" they were not like my 2013 which has a host of geometry changes. I've upped my air pressures, can't change the shock setting (2013's are non adjustable), and I practice ultra light steering inputs - all to no avail.

I'm hopeful to know more next week when my appointment with the dealer comes up. I'll keep the group informed.

Ken