New Recall Gas Cap Did Not Fix Gas SMell

[Grandpa Pete]

Well. I received the new gas cap a couple of days ago, so, they have founf their way to the Great White North ( well central minnesota).. to cold to try it out. Next week might be in the 30's, I'll try then..

[lookerjdc]

New gas cap solved the 'smell' problem for me

[cjackg]

[QUOTE=Bob Ledford;570846]It went back in the shop this afternoon for a canister MRI!!!!! QUOTE]
Good Luck! I am on the 2nd canister, purge valve, & gas cap and replacing them did not fix the prob after a few days. Tests that I have been doing show clearly that the fumes & drip start about 20-30 min after a hot shutdown.
The experiment I have been doing with a filter at the end of the vent hose to catch the drip shows the drip pulled back up into the canister after a full cool down, about an hour.
More testing planned, then I am going to contact BRP but I really think the only true fix for this is going to be wrapping the pipes and front of tank to prevent fuel boiling....

[GadgetGuy442]

Just got the gas cap for my 2010 RTS... My last name starts with an "S" so I'd figured I would hear others received theirs before I got mine.

Am happy to say I have never had a gas smell with our machine, but will make the swap and toss out the old cap anyway. Don't want to wait for trouble to come knocking on my door.

Just waiting for Spring and warmer weather now......

Bill

PS... I used to be an engineer in the powertrain activity with an auto company. Had carburetor (remember them?) and emission system responsibilities (canisters, purge valves, purge solenoids, etc.). A couple of comments I'll make are that the evaporative emission system, when engineered properly, should work with no noticeable odors at all. If there's odor noted, that should be checked and fixed. Because the fuel system is designed to vent to a canister, and then purge the canister while driving, any canisterectomy makes me feel a little nervous. The total fuel handling system is designed in a way that relies on the safe capture of the vapor, and to simply avert that part of it is pretty risky in my humble opinion. If you smell fumes, insist on getting the technical expertise your dealer needs to fix it.
Trust your nose!

One other thought - depending on where the purge port is located in the throttle body (relative to the position of the throttle plate), the rate of purge will depend on engine speed and throttle position. I honestly don't know how the engineers have set up the Spyder, but higher purge rates generally occur when the throttle is in a more closed position, thus creating more engine vacuum to the purge port. My personal driving style is one where I shift early and generally keep my engine rpms down, and I've never noticed any fuel vapor smell. Am not suggesting there's cause and effect going on here, just making an observation.

[Bob Ledford]

I now have the “straight skinny” on the raw gas smell emitted by the Spyder’s of the world. BRP”s CSR for dealers told the dealer to first check the charcoal canister for having raw gasoline in it. They took my Spyder a 2011 RT-L and denuded it of its outer skin and inspected the canister looking for a liquid drip. They pressure tested the system for leaks and found.every connection to be gas tight.

Here is what the BRP CSR desk had to say. If the canister is dry the system is workng as designed to work. The theory of operation is that when you get done riding your supposed to park your Spyder in a well ventilated area to let it cool down and the recovery system to do its thing. Then you bring it inside.

The new replacement cap has a higher vent pressure valve in it. That must be so the vapors in the tank push the vapors through the canister unit it cools down not allowing them, the fuel hydrocarbons, to escape into the atmosphere like the old cap did. Supposedly if the canister size were increased to handle everything it would have to be made big enough to fill the “frunk!”

Guess it is time to buy a Spyder cooler, a36 inch box fan, for the garage! Then I will have the only Spyder in the USA that has its own fan to stay cool with. At least until I stumble on a cure. The “mad scientist/engineer rides again!”

2013.02.09

[Bob Denman]

Bob, I've got to admit that the answer you received seems... like a dodge!

[NancysToy]

That sounds like it opens up a huge can of worms regarding liability. If potential owners are not warned of these "special procedures" up front, and they are not printed in the instruction manual, I doubt that the courts would consider them "prudent and normal." JMHO

Anyone up for a game of dodgeball?

[AbNormy]

Thanks Gadgetguy and Bob Ledford. I've been using a spydercooler since I bought my 2012 RT A&C in April and that's prolly only reason hadn't had a house fire, as it was a long hot summer last year expecting another. We got SpyderPops block off plates and Harvey drilled the cowling underneath as well. Bikes currently at dealer I bought it from Central Texas Powersports, Georgetown, Tx, for the 14k service and they're saying the canister might be saturated. Hoping Melvin and Billy get this sorted out. I did get some exhaust wrap with stainless ties, will report back on results. Really appreciate folks taking the time to post their experiences with this. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1362086660.029687.jpg


Sent from my home in Central Texas!

[AbNormy]

Got our 2012 RT A&C 14k service finished, replaced filters K&N trans oil filters valve adjust pluqs and wires from Baja Ron, plus they wrapped the left header so hopefully the heat won't boil the gas under the Tupperware! Billy and Melvin @ central Texas power sports do good work. If your in CenTex area they beat woods hands down.


Sent from my home in Central Texas!

[Bob Ledford]

Since my last update I have made some discoveries

1. It is related to heat.

2. Fill up just before parking for the day. No smell.

3. I am not overfilling the tank.

4. When it is 80 degrees out and the tank is partially full no smell.

5. When is 81 degrees out and the tank is partially full it stinks.

6. Following BRP's suggestion to leaving it outside, don't get it. But running a 36 inch box fan for 10 minutes or more even on SLOW speed does kilL THE SMELL?

I want to try wrapping the exhaust pipes when I feel more motivated not to ride every day of the week.

[Bob Ledford]

Still smelling some fumes. But the BRP work around is working . But I don't consider it fixed by any fig newton of my imagination.

[Bowtie41]

Nope, your not missing anything.....
I removed mine at about 50 miles. I have no fuel smell.

Speaking of hot fuel.....anyone ever grab the metal fuel filter after a ride? It gets hot enough that you can't keep your hand on it.
I wrapped the filter with heat tape and pulled the bracket away from the motor as much as possible. Don't know if it does anything but since there is no real volume in the filter it's just another thing to think about.


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My 2012 RT(new to us) has fuel odors.I have checked the cap,etc,and all looks ok.Only had Spyder about 2 weeks,bought from a friend,orig.owner.Only been on a 100 mi. ride since bought,been raining since every freakin' day,but had some odor when we got home.On day we bought it I asked him about the gas smell,he said the dealer told him it was "normal?"He didn't mention ever getting a new cap.If I buy one,will it be the updated one?Anyone have a pic of he replacement so I can make sure it's the updated cap?Any tips/steps/instructions to remove the can(for testing purposes,lol)?Anything need to be capped off?I really appreciate any info you can share.Thanks!

[jcthorne]

My 2012 RT(new to us) has fuel odors.I have checked the cap,etc,and all looks ok.Only had Spyder about 2 weeks,bought from a friend,orig.owner.Only been on a 100 mi. ride since bought,been raining since every freakin' day,but had some odor when we got home.On day we bought it I asked him about the gas smell,he said the dealer told him it was "normal?"He didn't mention ever getting a new cap.If I buy one,will it be the updated one?Anyone have a pic of he replacement so I can make sure it's the updated cap?Any tips/steps/instructions to remove the can(for testing purposes,lol)?Anything need to be capped off?I really appreciate any info you can share.Thanks!

There
are lots of suggestions about on what you can do about the gas smell on your 998 bike. Just read through the forum.

In the end, the only real way of getting rid of it on anything other than a 2013 RT is to trade it in on a newer Spyder with the 1330 engine. In high ambient temps, they ALL have gas fumes. Some worse than others, some while riding and some worse when parking in the garage. Leave your garage door open long enough for the bike to cool and vent. BRP never really corrected this issue on the 998s except for the 13 RT.

[Pirate looks at --]

There
are lots of suggestions about on what you can do about the gas smell on your 998 bike. Just read through the forum.

In the end, the only real way of getting rid of it on anything other than a 2013 RT is to trade it in on a newer Spyder with the 1330 engine. In high ambient temps, they ALL have gas fumes. Some worse than others, some while riding and some worse when parking in the garage. Leave your garage door open long enough for the bike to cool and vent. BRP never really corrected this issue on the 998s except for the 13 RT.

JC do you think that installing the 13 scoops might mitigate some of the heat issues that maybe causing the fuel to heat up to such a degree?

[jcthorne]

JC do you think that installing the 13 scoops might mitigate some of the heat issues that maybe causing the fuel to heat up to such a degree?

Yes,
they really do help. Both heat and fumes. They still heat soak after parking though and the gas stink comes back. But the air scoops do make matters much better while riding. Well worth the small cost.

[KX5062]

My 2012 RT(new to us) has fuel odors.I have checked the cap,etc,and all looks ok.Only had Spyder about 2 weeks,bought from a friend,orig.owner.Only been on a 100 mi. ride since bought,been raining since every freakin' day,but had some odor when we got home.On day we bought it I asked him about the gas smell,he said the dealer told him it was "normal?"He didn't mention ever getting a new cap.If I buy one,will it be the updated one?Anyone have a pic of he replacement so I can make sure it's the updated cap?Any tips/steps/instructions to remove the can(for testing purposes,lol)?Anything need to be capped off?I really appreciate any info you can share.Thanks!

Check underneath the bike and see if the plastic panels are still there. Many believe that removing those will help by increasing air circulation and thereby cooling the fuel tank. The big problem is the rear cylinder exhaust header runs right next to the gas tank, superheating the gasoline. I had the boiling gas problem on my old GS and solved it through various methods, but I can't say if those apply to the old RT line or not.

[Bowtie41]

Check underneath the bike and see if the plastic panels are still there. Many believe that removing those will help by increasing air circulation and thereby cooling the fuel tank. The big problem is the rear cylinder exhaust header runs right next to the gas tank, superheating the gasoline. I had the boiling gas problem on my old GS and solved it through various methods, but I can't say if those apply to the old RT line or not.

I had talked to Spyderpops about their heat shields and they said I could add both heat block-off plates to the right side panel if I removed the plastic shields underneath too,but I looked at the parts CD and am unsure exactly which shield to remove.Ever nice day the wife either takes it to work or makes me go on a ride,so nothing gets none.Think I'll slip her a sleeping pill so I can look under it,lol.I'm sure I'll get it figured out okay.I like to ride in shorts and my ankle is at about medium-well now,lmao.I'm also ordering the heat wrap for the exhaust,going to put the bypass pipe on,and other tips I learned here.It's already a cool looking ride,soon t will a cool feeling ride too!Thanks for all the help everyone