After further investigation last night, the coolant appears to be leaking from the 2 worm clamp positions shown in these pics
Those are not worm clamps (which tighten with a screwdriver), they are Oetiker clamps. They must be cut off to be replaced, and leaks there often indicate worn hoses. You could probably replace them with worm (screw) clamps without difficulty (except for cutting them off without damaging the hose). Be sure this is the location of the leak. Coolant collects at the hose fittings, and can appear to leak there when it is really from somewhere else.
Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
This one has me a bit worried, as it appears oil is leaking from the left/front side of the front cylinder. The other side is clean & dry
Could be from a valve cover gasket, water pump (?), or something else. Worry about one thing at a time. Get the major coolant leak taken care of. The oil leak may have been there some time, and appears to be minor. You just discovered it in your careful inspection for the coolant leak.
unk & I found the connection for it no problem & yes,
I'm aware I have to install a fuse to power it, but my question is,
Did BRP NOT put a prefab cutout in the plastic of the Frunk for easy installation? I mean, its there own mod, you'd think since they made it Plug&Play they'd also have an easy access point for it. If they did, I can't see where on Teds Red Sled, can you? [/QUOTE]
Good job finding the connection! I didn't find it, and figured it had been eliminated from the 2011 model. It is already powered, via the 10 amp circuit that feeds the rear outlet. The 12V accessory outlet is marketed for the RS (but will fit anything), so there is no mark or cutout in the RT trunk for it. You will have to find a place and cut your own hole.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
So yesterday, we got sent home early. I have therapy scheduled twice a week for right after I get off (normally) of work, and its close by work, but about 30 minutes from home. So I figured I'd go home & slueth around Teds Red Sled for the aforementioned coolant leaks, which I think we've found as those Otiker clamps or however you spell them are the most likely culprit. So I figured I'd take The Tedster with me to my Therapy appointment for the first time. All of the therapists that work there had seen his pics & heard of his tales, but had never had the chance to meet him til yesterday.
Surprise Surprise, Teddy was once again the center of attentioncan you believe thatHe went straight to work schmooze'n with everyone in the waiting room, and taught a little boy about 4 or 5 how to High 5 & give him a treat (Teddy, not the kid) & then it was our turn to go back.
Just a quick update from my last post about all the insurance frustration I had to ho thru, come to find out, sent I was referred to Therapy by a hand surgery specialist, and this was basically their own Therapy department, its considered Occupational Therapy and NOT Physical Therapy, don't ask me, i don't know wjy. But my regular insurance does cover OT, but for PT, I'd have to go thru a seperate company and only go to their providers. So in the end, the 3 hours of frustration was nothing more than a miserable waste of time for me, but at least I got it figured out.
Now, as for my arm, my issues have transferred and are getting worse. I was told last week NOT to do the hand exercises with my arm stretched straight, only the ones with my arm bent at my side. Doing the out stretched exercises caused a nerve to get inflamed or something, cause now anytime I straighten my right (injured) arm, and try using my right hand to apply any pressure, even like using a screw driver to remove 4 bolts, my index finger gets about 10 degrees colder than the rest of my fingers on the same hand, then I get a bad achy, tingling feeling like pins & needles that usually lasts a good 30 minutes or so. Nothing dibilitating, just very frustrating and annoying more than anything. So now I'm told to try limiting my use with it even more, cause anything as simple as holding the steering wheel in the car, even lightly causes this reaction, as I said, just very very frustrating.
Anyways, my therapist loved Teddy and was happy that I brought him in with me as was the other patients, and of course, I dug out his treats and let them play & schmooze with him, and he posed for more than a few pics to say the least. Its been a bit since I've taken some pics of him myself, and I need to do that and post them for y'all. You may not recognize him, as its winter time, so I'm not shaving him down any more and he's really starting to get shaggy, kind of the inbetween stage from shaved to full coat. You'd think he's been chowing down like crazy & doubled his weight with how big he looks compared to be shaved
Getting sent home early again today, so I'll be checking the radar closely and if we get a break in the rain, Teddy & I will gear up and take his Red Sled for a ryde up to Middletown Cycle so they can do all the BUDS updates that are due, check the valve clearance & I'll also have the check about the oil and coolant leaks as well. Also need to get the redesigned side panel, can't forget that. Here's to hoping there's a break in the weather today
Getting sent home early again today, so I'll be checking the radar closely and if we get a break in the rain, Teddy & I will gear up and take his Red Sled for a ryde up to Middletown Cycle so they can do all the BUDS updates that are due, check the valve clearance & I'll also have the check about the oil and coolant leaks as well. Also need to get the redesigned side panel, can't forget that. Here's to hoping there's a break in the weather today
Checking valve clearance is not a quick and dirty thing...it takes several hours. Did you arrange this with them beforehand?
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
I had a coolant leak and discovered it was my worm clamp. The clamp seemed that it would come loose real easy so I replaced the worm clamp. I went out for a 10 mile ride and so far the leak hasn't returned.
Good luck fixing your leak and with your therapy.
[B]
2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods) 2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014
Checking valve clearance is not a quick and dirty thing...it takes several hours. Did you arrange this with them beforehand?
Yeah, when we went up last week, I asked the owner & the Service Manager about getting the valve check done & all the BUDS updates done & was told to bring it in whenever we could & they'd get us taken care of. I even asked if I had to redress the sled & showed him pics of how stripped I got it right now, but still able to ryde & they said to bring it in as it is, as long as I was ok with ryding it like that. Said it should save me a good chunk on labor costs, cause as doc & roger mentioned, with all the airbox & resonator removed, the engine is wide open, and I have all the side panels removed up front as well, so much less they have to worry about doing
I called just to confirm, and was told I'd have to wait til next week, as their only Spyder Tech. had already started on an major Spyder job & it more than likely will take all week to complete
Ok, this is starting to really frustrate me. With the helpful tips from y'all, I managed to disassemble even more of Teds Red Sled so that I could actually get in and be able to see where the coolant leak is. Thinking it's coming from the hose clamps, I removed all the plastic shroud around the fan and of course the plastic side support. I screwed the fan back in place, just without all the shroud & reconnected its wiring, so it runs like normal. I started the Spyder and let it run about 15 minutes & the temp. Gauge wad reading 5 bars and the fan kicked on as it should. Before all this, I made sure to top off the coolant, bringing it back up to the Full line on the tank.
I figured, as suggested, that once it got heated up, the coolant leak would be obvious and show itself. Try my best, I couldn't find any leaking and nothing on the floor. So I went and wire-tied a few dangly things securely to the frame and geared up Teddy & myself & figured we'd take a nice test ryde to really get things warmed up & that should do the trick.
Have to admit, this was by far the worst test ryde we've ever taken, & not because of the missing body panels, but because of the HORRIBLY SQUEEKING BRAKES!!!
Let me clarify here before anyone jumps all over me or gets the wrong idea. All 3 brakes are brand new Simi-Centred Pads that I purchased from BajaRon when I also ordered everything else for the maintenance. And yes, I have PM'd him directly about the issue & he immediately replied with a list of things I can try to correct the issues I'm having & also to reassure me this is an anomaly, and out of all of the numerous sets of pads that he has sold, I was the first to complain of an issue of brake squeal with them. So I'm pretty confident that its just some adjustment that I need to make to get them to quiet down, but with my right hand being so limited, its just not something I can easily tear into at the present time.
On our 60 mile test ryde a couple weeks back, I noticed them a little, but that test ryde, as evidenced by our video, was mostly open road with very little stop and go, so it didn't seem to be that big a deal, and I kind of wrote it off as they were brand new pads that were still getting broken in. But our ryde yesterday was just around town, all stop and go from block to block and squealing like a pig being chased for dinner at every stop. We even took it out on the highway to get up to speed and followed some of Rons suggestions for maybe correcting issues if our rotors were glazed, but that didn't help any at all. Not to mention, not saying it can't happen, but I seriously doubt that all 3 rotors would mysteriously glaze over at the same time just from sitting a few months, as we had no squeal to speak of from our previous brakes and the rotor on the rear is relatively new, with less than 8000 miles, and the fronts are still stock with a bit over 34,000.
Was just so embarrassing, as people from a block a way could here us sqealing, just made for a really frustrating ryde. I need to get my hand working right so I can investigate this further, cause its a ryde stopper for sure.
Anyways, so we rode for a little over 20 miles total, mostly city and I know the temp. was good and warm, as without that shroud & tupperware on, you really notice when that fan kicks on for sure. Back home to the garage, I grab the work light & I'm sure I would see evidence of the coolant leaks, again thinking its coming from the hose connections/clamps, but to my surprise, NOTHING! Not a drop of coolant to be seen, I don't get it.
Ok, so before leaving for work this morning, I went out to the garage expecting to once again see a puddle of green greeting me at the door, but nope, notta, bone dry every where I looked, connections, hoses, clamps and floor were all still nice clean and dry???
So what gives? Is my brain broken & I was just imagining this. If so, my imagination must be damn good, cause I even posted photos of what I thought was a coolant leak. Maybe its mass hullicinations, and the electronics are in on it too???
Last edited by CyncySpyder; 01-30-2013 at 07:42 AM.
No Dave. It looks like this problem is falling into the category better known as a "PFM" . I hate it when one of these things crop up.
What is PFM?
Three in the garage, and I think I can fit at least one more in.....and then we will have to build another garage.
The roads in NY are so bad that I am glad we bought a Ryker Rally
O M G !!! Any advice on an Energy efficient heater for a 1 car/Spyder garage
I just received my electric bill for this past month, which usually runs around $120 in the coldest part of winter. In years past, I never really did the work myself on Teds Red Sled, besides routine maintenance of oil changes etc... so I never really had to be out in the garage for any real length of time when it was freezing out, so I never had to really worry about heating it, til this year that is We have one of those oil filled electric radiator looking heaters that was left over from my previous place that the fire didn't damage and that's what we've been using this winter. It works, but when its below freezing out, I keep its setting on 60 when we're out there, but the best it can usually manage is around 42-50 degrees F, not great but beats freezing. I had been leaving it running to help build up the heat better, but it still wouldn't get above 50F & I just learned, I can't afford to keep doing that. This bill I just received is for $240.80
Can anyone recommend a good space heater that's energy efficient to heat a 1 Spyder garage?
Right before my previous place burned down, I had just purchased one of those EdenPure space heaters that are highly advertised, but sadly, didn't get a chance to use it before it got melted in the fire, so I have no real clue how well & energy efficient they truly are. They make great claims, and I was about to purchase another for the garage, but when I started doing my research last week, I found a lot of negative reviews and claims of misleading and false advertising, and that scared me off.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated it. And just an FYI, this is a 1 car detatched garage with an over-head attic area & it looks like their is no insulation that I can tell. Idealistically, I'd add insulation to help control the heat absorbtion and loss, but we're in a condo complex which strictly defines that are garages are to be used solely for storing our pocessions and automobiles and technically no workshops/working garages are permitted. We technically only own the drywall out and aren't suppose to change anything inside the walls, as I found out soon after moving in and getting assessed a fine for removing two of my walls in the kitchen
I've Never lived in a condo before, so I'm living and learning, that's for sure. Got a notice last month, that our Moto-Mate Camper, which I've been storing next to the Cougar in our assigned parking space isn't allowed to be there & if I don't remove it, I'll once again be assessed a penalty. UGH!!! I usually wedge it in the garage with the Spyder, but with the Spyder all apart, I need the extra space to be able to move around and actually work on it, which also technically isn't allowed
Sorry, I'm done b*tch'n, any recommendations on heating the garage is appreciated
I just received my electric bill for this past month, which usually runs around $120 in the coldest part of winter. In years past, I never really did the work myself on Teds Red Sled, besides routine maintenance of oil changes etc... so I never really had to be out in the garage for any real length of time when it was freezing out, so I never had to really worry about heating it, til this year that is We have one of those oil filled electric radiator looking heaters that was left over from my previous place that the fire didn't damage and that's what we've been using this winter. It works, but when its below freezing out, I keep its setting on 60 when we're out there, but the best it can usually manage is around 42-50 degrees F, not great but beats freezing. I had been leaving it running to help build up the heat better, but it still wouldn't get above 50F & I just learned, I can't afford to keep doing that. This bill I just received is for $240.80
Can anyone recommend a good space heater that's energy efficient to heat a 1 Spyder garage?
Right before my previous place burned down, I had just purchased one of those EdenPure space heaters that are highly advertised, but sadly, didn't get a chance to use it before it got melted in the fire, so I have no real clue how well & energy efficient they truly are. They make great claims, and I was about to purchase another for the garage, but when I started doing my research last week, I found a lot of negative reviews and claims of misleading and false advertising, and that scared me off.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated it. And just an FYI, this is a 1 car detatched garage with an over-head attic area & it looks like their is no insulation that I can tell. Idealistically, I'd add insulation to help control the heat absorbtion and loss, but we're in a condo complex which strictly defines that are garages are to be used solely for storing our pocessions and automobiles and technically no workshops/working garages are permitted. We technically only own the drywall out and aren't suppose to change anything inside the walls, as I found out soon after moving in and getting assessed a fine for removing two of my walls in the kitchen
I've Never lived in a condo before, so I'm living and learning, that's for sure. Got a notice last month, that our Moto-Mate Camper, which I've been storing next to the Cougar in our assigned parking space isn't allowed to be there & if I don't remove it, I'll once again be assessed a penalty. UGH!!! I usually wedge it in the garage with the Spyder, but with the Spyder all apart, I need the extra space to be able to move around and actually work on it, which also technically isn't allowed
Sorry, I'm done b*tch'n, any recommendations on heating the garage is appreciated
Dave,
Consider a Kerosene Space Heater. You will heat the garage quickly and for a lot less than trying to heat with electric, because you only run it when you need it..... Attached is a pic of one sold by Northern Tool, about $130.00 as I recall.
Some conventional looking kero heaters have a blower on them. Watch for Carbon Monoxide if you run in closed spaces. have a CM detector around. The trailer, a lot of ustore places charge a very small fee for parking a RV outside.
Good Luck
Oldmanzues.
I have also found a kero heater to be a very efficient way of heating a small space. A couple tips for those though:
1) If you need to move the heater when lit, take care not to drop it as this will damage the wick.
2) DO NOT let the heater run out of fuel, again it could damage the wick.
3) Replace the wick on an annual basis whether it needs it or not, old wicks that have sat around for a while become less efficient.
I learned a lot of these things the hard way. It is amazing how a simple device can have little quirks like that.
I lived in a house down in SC that was part of a development and had to deal with the home owner's association, it s absolutely no fun. I feel your pain,
Three in the garage, and I think I can fit at least one more in.....and then we will have to build another garage.
The roads in NY are so bad that I am glad we bought a Ryker Rally
insulation is the key. do it anyway. midnight insulation run, very covert. your oil filled heater is fairly efficient, if you can retain the heat. you did close the stairway hatch, right ? the cost of a new heater will buy a good amount of insulation. is the garage door insulated? you could glue cheap styrofoam to the interior of it. it all adds up. look for some on craigslist.
Ok, so I mentioned in an earlier post how we're let'n Teddy's coat grow out for the winter time. Well, he had to go for his anual check up yesterday, and his wonderful vet noticed how shaggy he was looking & also asked if we've been back into our daily ryding routine, which I admitted we sadly are not yet. She stated she could tell, cause Teddy was showing signs of stress or depression, which of course, the good doctor was correct. Teddy has a small bald spot on his front left paw, which I thought was a 'hot spot' usually caused by his food allergies, but she readily corrected my ill flawed logic, as hot spots are usually roundish in shape and are found throughout a dogs coat, if in fact caused by food allergies. That was how it was when we first discovered his food allergy problem a couple years back & switched him to his Hypoallergenic diet, and the hot spots went away within 3weeks of his new diet. This is nothing like that however & she noted that his present mallady was stress or depression related. Great doc. Thanks for making me feel more like cr*p that we've not been ryding. But she was just doing her job & telling me the truth. I wonder how many other ppl out there have doctors orders to ryde their Spyders for the good mental health of their dogs?
Anyways, we're still waiting to get the Red Sled into the shop for the valve check before I put it all back together, tho we're almost there.
Any parents out there that may occassionally cut your kids hair every now and then can identify with our next laughable situation. Since Teddy's hair is get'n so shaggy, I decided to go ahead and at least give him a bit of a trim around the rear quarters, paws, belly and of course, his Iconic mowhawk. Well, you know how kids can have a hard time sitting still sometimes while your trying to cut their hair & the implications that their impatients can sometimes illicit. Oooopppppssssss, did I do that? Right now, Teddy has a couple of little bald spots right next to his mowhawk. I'm glad he can't see it, or I'm sure he'd prolly give me a tongue lashing, and not in his usually loving manner that he does. But he has his part in moving when I asked him to hold still, while I was trimming with the clippers. He usually listens really well and this is our first mishap in 2 years of style'n his mowhawk. Was bound to happen sooner or later, ya know?
After the game, we'll take another look and see if we can do a comb-over or maybe we'll have to shave his iconic mowhawk and allow it all to grow back in evenly, we'll see.
Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
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can you believe that
He went straight to work schmooze'n with everyone in the waiting room, and taught a little boy about 4 or 5 how to High 5 & give him a treat (Teddy, not the kid) & then it was our turn to go back.
Yup, sure did
sadly, not today
What is PFM?
We have one of those oil filled electric radiator looking heaters that was left over from my previous place that the fire didn't damage and that's what we've been using this winter. It works, but when its below freezing out, I keep its setting on 60 when we're out there, but the best it can usually manage is around 42-50 degrees F, not great but beats freezing. I had been leaving it running to help build up the heat better, but it still wouldn't get above 50F & I just learned, I can't afford to keep doing that. This bill I just received is for 
$240.80
it was fun while it lasted.
