Though size may vary from brand to brand (and even model to model) with the same size markings, this at least gives you some ball park figures to work with.
As you can see, the 185/60/14 is closer to stock Diameter/Circumference dimensions than the 175/65/14 and the 185 gives you more tread on the ground at the same time.
Though size may vary from brand to brand (and even model to model) with the same size markings, this at least gives you some ball park figures to work with.
As you can see, the 185/60/14 is closer to stock Diameter/Circumference dimensions than the 175/65/14 and the 185 gives you more tread on the ground at the same time.
Did the 185/60/14's fit okay under the stock fenders?
The 185-60's will fit but will be tight, I removed my fenders and elongated the holes in the brackets to move them out 1/4-3/8 ", which actually puts them directly in the middle of the tire, others have added washers between the bracket and fender to raise them up slightly.
I exchanged the original Kendas for the Toyo Proxes CF1 ==> 175/60-R14. The tyres are in use for approx. 17.000 miles now and look almost new. No significant signs of usage!
From my experience I can recommend these tyres, but I don't know if these tyres are available in the US?!
I exchanged the original Kendas for the Toyo Proxes CF1 ==> 175/60-R14. The tyres are in use for approx. 17.000 miles now and look almost new. No significant signs of usage!
From my experience I can recommend these tyres, but I don't know if these tyres are available in the US?!
Regards,
Alex
That is a great tire choice (or Tyre as they say). The diameter is virtually the same as OEM, a bit more tread on the ground and the Toyo CF1 looks to be a very good tire. I do not believe that tire is available in the US.
If wider tires works on front wheels the better especially for stopping, the more contact surface between tires and road the better
I don't actually know if that's true...
It's about pressurealso; the larger surface area will spread the bike's weight out and reduce the pounds per square inch on the ground...
Or is it strictly a traction thing?
Is there an engineer here who can tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree?
I elongated the holes in the brackets outward with a dremel tool. I also trimmed the bottom of the splash guard straight down, this made getting the tire in or out much easier without it hanging up on the tip of the guard.
It's about pressurealso; the larger surface area will spread the bike's weight out and reduce the pounds per square inch on the ground...
Or is it strictly a traction thing?
Is there an engineer here who can tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree?
Also the half inch or less in the choices given would probably make little difference.
Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders Amsoil, 10w40, Rons performance wires
I elongated the holes in the brackets outward with a dremel tool. I also trimmed the bottom of the splash guard straight down, this made getting the tire in or out much easier without it hanging up on the tip of the guard.
Thanks, I will need to do mine soon and I know they won't fit with the stock setup.
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I don't actually know if that's true...
It's about pressurealso; the larger surface area will spread the bike's weight out and reduce the pounds per square inch on the ground...
Or is it strictly a traction thing?
Is there an engineer here who can tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree?
I'm not a tire engineer and your theory has merrit on the surface. But if more pressure per square inch were the formula then dragsters would be running pizza cutters.
I'm not a tire engineer and your theory has merrit on the surface. But if more pressure per square inch were the formula then dragsters would be running pizza cutters.
In general, traction improves with more tire on the ground, but vehicles seem to have a point where increasing the contact area begins to reduce traction. This effect is enhanced by wet or snowy conditions. From what I have seen, the point at which it happens is at least partially dependent on the weight of the vehicle, the tread pattern (or lack thereof with a dragster), and the weather or road conditions. If it was a cut and dried thing, we would probably all run the same tire, with the same pressure, all the time. Each owner must find what works for him and the way he rides. BTW, I don't recommend the pizza cutters.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
That's right, very sticky tires. I know from my winter experience back in Pennsylvania that a narrower tire gave better traction in the snow.
In poor traction situations a wider tire acts like a ski. Snow, standing water and mud, for example. In these situations (except for packed snow) you want to get through the problem down to where traction exists, so narrower is better.
Like Scotty says, each situation and combination of circumstances prescribes a certain 'Ideal' tire. The problem is, we don't usually have a rack full of different tires like a race team, and no one to swap them out every time the conditions warrant. So we select the tire that will do us the most good in the majority of situations we encounter. This always requires compromise.
Then, hopefully, we are aware of the weaknesses of our chosen tire and ride accordingly when the tire is not optimal for that particular condition.
In poor traction situations a wider tire acts like a ski. Snow, standing water and mud, for example. In these situations (except for packed snow) you want to get through the problem down to where traction exists, so narrower is better.
Like Scotty says, each situation and combination of circumstances prescribes a certain 'Ideal' tire. The problem is, we don't usually have a rack full of different tires like a race team, and no one to swap them out every time the conditions warrant. So we select the tire that will do us the most good in the majority of situations we encounter. This always requires compromise.
Then, hopefully, we are aware of the weaknesses of our chosen tire and ride accordingly when the tire is not optimal for that particular condition.
Well said, Ron!
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Since we're tlaking tires here; does anybody know of a 155 or 145 section width shoe that could work up front? I've been wondering if that might help Doc on his WFO runs at Bonneville...
bigger front tire?????
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Originally Posted by hecoon
with longer bolts! 
Also the half inch or less in the choices given would probably make little difference.
Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders 
In general, traction improves with more tire on the ground, but vehicles seem to have a point where increasing the contact area begins to reduce traction. This effect is enhanced by wet or snowy conditions. From what I have seen, the point at which it happens is at least partially dependent on the weight of the vehicle, the tread pattern (or lack thereof with a dragster), and the weather or road conditions. If it was a cut and dried thing, we would probably all run the same tire, with the same pressure, all the time. Each owner must find what works for him and the way he rides. BTW, I don't recommend the pizza cutters.
