while the bike was up in the air today, i discovered that the loop that my guardian bell hangs from was almost worn thru. i beefed it up with some solder. these bells are made out of lead, or something similar.
had the bike not been in the air, i never would have caught it. it would have fallen off in the spring, then i couldn't tinkle. i did add an extra ring to it , to get it closer to the ground, to make it more powerfull. if your bell is grungy looking, they buff right up with some fine steel wool.
i added a layer of 3/4 to each extension to make it easier to roll over the pipe and clamps. the forward edge has a 45° bevel. if only i had remembered to make a set for the rear wheel.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,wth. is anybody else doing this mod ? just wondering.
do you have enough space on that table to jack the spyder to get the wheels off? and what did you end up spending to make that work? looks good and i have a lwr back problem and like others i cant stand being on the floor trying to work. also how high does this table go up and how low does it sit to the floor?
Tall flag mount, spyderpops skid plate & stainless steel screen mesh, airhawk adjustable cushion, raised white lettered tires.
i think you could slide a floor jack in between the spyder frame and the table top. the clearance is the same as if the bike was sitting on the ground, except where the pipe crosses over the table. the table sits about 5-6 inches tall, when fully lowered. 30 inches all the way up. the conversion cost would be roughly 50-100 bucks in materials. i had all the wood, screws, hinges, paint. i only had to buy the pipe and some of the clamps, so i spent less than fifty. i'm really glad i did it, to me it was worth every penny.
added another layer of 3/4 for the rear wheel to roll over the pipe. should make for much easier on and off. i just stuck it on with a goodly amount of silicone caulk.
I'm sooo diggin this thread. I have a harbor freight about 25min from my house and 15 from my work. They mail out coupons for 15% and what not on a pretty regular basis. I can't wait till the next one I get. I lift would make so many thing so much easier.
it is soooooo nice to clean up the bike while sitting, or standing. no more kneeling for this kid. keep an eye on craigslist, you might find one real cheap. i just missed out on a couple high dollar lift tables that were cheap, before i found this one.
i'll be adding wheel stops on the rear of the out-riggers. sometimes i park on it front first ( the lazy way ), this will stop the bike from going off the back of the ramps, should i screw up and not stop in time.
pics to come soon, having technical difficulty.
finally added the wheel stops. they're just angle iron that hvac guys use for installs,any angle iron would work. they are jacked up a little on a layer of 3/4.
i softened up my shocks last week and unbeknownst to me lost some height on the front end. this caused me to drag hard backing on to the lift. this was mainly caused by my floorboard support that's bolted to the frame. i added a layer of 1/2 '' plywood to each ramp, for a little more lift,problem solved.
i recently switched back to my original gs shocks, set on five. it seems that they are ''taller'' than rt shocks set on three or less. i'm not scraping on the lift, or my driveway apron anymore. just an fyi.
still works great. still glad i did it. still a little bit of a p i a to back on to every time out, although i usually get it on the first try. never really liked the idea of my big spyder up on a little atv type jack, but that's just me.
just having the bike on the lift, not raised, makes it so much easier to detail or whatever else, while sitting.
Silly question? Why cant you just drive it on normally? What am I missing?
The lift sits about 7 or 8 inches off the floor and you'd need to make full length runners to get to the end where it is wide enough to fit the front wheels. I went that route on the one I tried my conversion on. You can also reverse the end you mount the ramp on if you install blocks under the lift to keep it from tipping up as you ride on.
I abandoned my project after it was finished because the harbor freight lift would not lift my RT Limited. The harbor freight is rated at 1000 lbs. The hydraulic jack pushes against a cam action to start lifting and the weight of my Limited could not be overcome. I took the $$$$ loss on the harbor freight and went and purchased the complete Handy lift system. I'm much happier even if it cost a lot more.
EDIT :: Here is the conversion I did using platform runners to be able to drive on forward.
backing onto this lift is the best weight distribution, since the table moves forward ( backward in my case ) as it lowers to the ground, around 18-24 inches. if you pulled onto it, there would be so much weight on the overhanging end, it probably wouldn't lift at all, or it might flip.
How do you all do any type of underneath work w these type lifts?
Doesn't look easy at all to get to stuff?
I use my car lift, I just put the front wheels on it and lift it up for access, if I need it level I use a separate jack on the back. That's the only way I have found to gain total access under the bike where you need to be?
HARBOR FREIGHT also carries another lift...
this is the one i use because i'm limited in space in my MAN-CAVE... 003.jpg gives me a good height to work under, and 005.jpg it collapse nicely to fit under my work-bench...
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Replaced pipe with sc80. This lift sells for $1040.00. Use for side by side and lawnmower. A real back saver.
This is a nice lift similar to the Handy lifts. Two differences are the Handy B.O.B. is made in USA and Handy offers a Spyder conversion platform package. Replacing the "through bars" in order to expand the width so the Spyder will fit on the ATV platforms is an alternative to the Spyder option. If I was to do that on this particular lift I would consider adding a wider "stabilizer bar" on the bottom to prevent any tip-over possibility. This is something that is part of the Handy design. Using the ATV platform is also a possibility on the Handy lift as well. I chose not to do that and order the Spyder platform because I didn't want to be leaning or reaching over the ATV platform when working on the Spyder. Using the Spyder platform you don't have the ATV platforms in your way and can get up close to work on the Spyder.
saved the bell
i did add an extra ring to it , to get it closer to the ground, to make it more powerfull.
if your bell is grungy looking, they buff right up with some fine steel wool.
it was fun while it lasted.
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Originally Posted by dizzyspots
2016 F3T Magnesium Metalic : Smooth Spyder Dual Backrest, Lamonster LED Head lights and Fog lights
