How to modify HARBOR FREIGHT LIFT TABLE to lift a spyder
i bought a h f lift table .in this thread i'll show you how i modify it to lift my g s . i just couldn't stand to crawl around on my knees any more to do cleaning, maintenance, and mods .
first pic is standard lift table.foot pedal operated. goes up smooth, comes down smooth. bought it used on craigslist for200.
second pics shows extensions. these are simply boxes, made from 2 by 6, the tops are 2 by 10. 9 1/4 wide by 20 inches long. they are 6 3/4 tall, same height as table top, fully lowered. the ramps are 48 '' long. with the 2 by 10 tops on them they will be 6 3/4 on the extension end to zero on the other end.
TBC...... sorry pics are wrong order.
NICE JOB COZ, i luv it.....
here's my solution, since i don't have enuff room in my MAN CAVE for a lift.... this allows me just enuff access to do what is necessary...
hey, send me that OEM muffler u have hang'n on the walk, and i'll do a MOD to it like mine....
NICE JOB COZ, i luv it.....
here's my solution, since i don't have enuff room in my MAN CAVE for a lift.... allows me just enuff access to do what is necessary...
hey, send me that OEM muffler u have hang'n on the walk, and i'll do a MOD to it like mine....
i bought a h f lift table .in this thread i'll show you how i modify it to lift my g s . i just couldn't stand to crawl around on my knees any more to do cleaning, maintenance, and mods .
first pic is standard lift table.foot pedal operated. goes up smooth, comes down smooth. bought it used on craigslist for200.
second pics shows extensions. these are simply boxes, made from 2 by 6, the tops are 2 by 10. 9 1/4 wide by 20 inches long. they are 6 3/4 tall, same height as table top, fully lowered. the ramps are 48 '' long. with the 2 by 10 tops on them they will be 6 3/4 on the extension end to zero on the other end.
TBC...... sorry pics are wrong order.
This has nothing to do with a motorcycle lift but I thought that this info might help a shopper from harbor freight.
Harbor freight's drill # 06526 is on recall/ Check yours out and if it is on recall, take it back.
i can start all over again! ps. spyd3r, your spyder cave is very cool thanks arris, i do happen to have a h f hammer drill, and it's stuck in reverse. hopefully thats the one.
i can start all over again! ps. spyd3r, your spyder cave is very cool thanks arris, i do happen to have a h f hammer drill, and it's stuck in reverse. hopefully thats the one.
I have a rigid drill that was stuck in reverse. After removing the handle, I found out that the lever that moves the drill from forward to reverse was broken off.. I just moved the lever to forward and ordered the part for the drill. But check if yours is on recall before taking it apart.
I've been looking at the hf lift, and wondering if I remember enough about hydralics to set 2 of them side by side with a plate for the rear wheel and a common pump to lift it all.
just finished the first ramp, except for connecting it to the actual extension. here's the cool part,,,,,,,, when the table is up, the ramps, rather than sticking out in mid air, or taking them off and setting them to the side somewhere else in the garage, will fold backwards out of the way underneath the extension.
the ramp halves will be hinged, and hinged to the extension itself, allowing it drop down to vertical and backwards. these ramps are big ( four feet ) and kind of heavy, so this seemed like a good solution to the handling / storing problem. we'll soon see how it all works out. TBC.......
the hinged ramps work.this part of the project was most difficult. if i had to do it over, i would have used surface mount strap hinges under each joint. i didn't think of it in time, so i just used what i had,, commercial door hinges, very heavy duty . this involved lots of trimming , carving, adjusting ect. i would recomend against it and just use strap hinges, or just use solid ramps and forget about it. TBC .......
the extension supports are 3/4 black iron pipe ( gas pipe ) , atatched with muffler clamps. the pipe is one ten foot piece cut in half. 13 bucks at h d . muffler clamps ( 8 ) were 22 bucks. tomorrow i'll bolt the whole assembly to the table top and test it. the only real question is whether the 3/4 pipe is strong enough. T B C.......
Pretty slick coz, I like the folding sections....why didn't HF think of that?
As for the 3/4" pipe bending, the most vulnerable spot is the center of each pipe....adding a clamp there will resolve that. If they are still a little iffy, gussett from the bottom inside edge of the boxes to the bottom of the table.
'09 SM5, Hindle pipe, K&N, sport rack, backrest, Givi shield EVO swaybar, Symtec grip heaters, Spyderpops belt guard....some other stuff.
Don't worry about the bullet with your name on it,
Be afraid of the one saying 'To Whom it May Concern'!
mounted the assembly to the table, perfect fit to the bike. turns out the ramps are a little to long to fold backwards, need to trim off a couple inches. the pipe started to bow when i lifted the table, so i'll add clamps in the center as dannymax advised and see how it does.
on a side note, the bike would not start to get it off the lift. found a slightly loose ground cable. cleaned and tightened and put the tender back on it. i'll check it tomorrow. could be time for a new battery. TBC.......
If the center clamp doesn't do the job, cut some wood to fill the gap between the outrigger and the table. It will stiffen the pipes and brace against the table and block. 3/4" is pretty small to do that job. A typical metal extension would use 1 1/2" or 2"...or thick-wall pipe
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
when i realized that i could not undermount the pipe, i thought i would use the smallest o.d. that i could get away with, since i have to drive over it. good idea, adding the wood in between. i'll probably do both just to be safe.
mounted the assembly to the table, perfect fit to the bike. turns out the ramps are a little to long to fold backwards, need to trim off a couple inches. the pipe started to bow when i lifted the table, so i'll add clamps in the center as dannymax advised and see how it does.
on a side note, the bike would not start to get it off the lift. found a slightly loose ground cable. cleaned and tightened and put the tender back on it. i'll check it tomorrow. could be time for a new battery. TBC.......
Nice job I had made my ramps out of wood too but let them stay on the ground, I saw no reason for them to raise with the lift.
I added longer pipes to move the extensions out on my Handy lift and built wooden ramps. I keep my RT parked on it at all times in the garage. The wooden ramps are duct taped on except when raised, then I remove tape and retape when lowered.
2015 an Am Spyder RT Limited
2013 Yamaha WR250R - Sold
2011 Can Am Spyder RT-S SE5 Limited - Sold
2011 Aspen Sentry Trailer
2003 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2007 Unigo Trailer - Sold
2001 BMW K1200LT - Sold
2001 Honda 750 NightHawk - sold
2015 RT Ltd , Canamspyderaccessories Brake pedal ext. Red
finished the lift table mods today. added center clamps, and gussets from the extension boxes up to the table top frame. shortened up the ramps so they fold perfectly. spyder won't start AGAIN, so i can't test anything. DANG. it all looks very good on paper though.
How to modify HARBOR FREIGHT LIFT TABLE to lift a spyder
it was fun while it lasted.
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Originally Posted by SPYD3R
2016 F3T Magnesium Metalic : Smooth Spyder Dual Backrest, Lamonster LED Head lights and Fog lights
so i can't test anything. DANG. it all looks very good on paper though
