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  1. #1
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    Default Not wanting to start ??

    While riding and then stopping for gas etc when I get back on and try to start it it seems completly dead. Not the battery as all the lights work but the starting does nothing? I double click it push on the brake pedal and still no response. Finaly after mutiable tries it will kick over. But is mighty scary. Any one else have this problem? And if you cured it what did you do??

  2. #2
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Still could be battery or connections. Check that the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal under the seat) is tight. Caution: Do not loosen it! Then check the battery terminals (inside the bodywork) to see that they are clean and tight. If all is good, check the battery condition. After charging, then sitting for a few hours, the battery should remain above 12.6 volts. While cranking (with wide open throttle to prevent charging) it should remain at 10.0 volts or higher. Also check that all relays in the fuse box in the front trunk are properly seated. If all checks out, you may have a starter of solenoid issue, and will need further troubleshooting and dealer attention.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



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  3. #3
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    Check all of those miserable battery connections, and work your way up the difficulty ladder only if no solution is found...
    Good Luck! Please let us know what you find!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #4
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    I don't think it is the battery as it was replaced 1 1/2 months ago. Checked the connection under the seat and it turned but felt tight enough for being a nut all seems well. Hope I don't have to remove the panels as have hard bags and also have to remove the frames. But if that could be the problem guess I will have to.

  5. #5
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    I hope that your efforts are well-rewarded!
    Please let us know...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBones View Post
    I don't think it is the battery as it was replaced 1 1/2 months ago. Checked the connection under the seat and it turned but felt tight enough for being a nut all seems well. Hope I don't have to remove the panels as have hard bags and also have to remove the frames. But if that could be the problem guess I will have to.
    If the connection under the seat turned, it is not tight. That could easily be your problem, or it could still lie at the battery. Sometimes there isn't an easy answer.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  7. #7
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    here i am saying the same thing i seem to rag on ,battery cables will vibrate loose,the fusess,and relays vibrate loose ,you must check them,i do every 500 miles and found them loose ,that is most likely why the new bikes have the battery in under the front trunk.easery to keep tight.sorry about you having saddle bags on,that would be rough to keep cheaking those battery cables,but this is a fact things like that vibrate loose,and all kinds of bad things start showing up when not tight.and clean.

  8. #8
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    OK Scotty I tried the - cable and like you said it was still loose, I could move it back and forth with my fingers so tightened it and will try it for a bit before taking the panels off. It does seem to work. It was when I had to put on the brake to start that gave me the trouble none yet so am hoping. Also like one of the poster said I took the #10 wrench from the set that came with the bike and bent it sideways. It bent VERY easy so I didn't have to take off anything to hold the nut in place to tighten it!! Thanks to all your help is needed. Will let you know if this is the fix, but I think so.

  9. #9
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    im glad that might be the fix,i was worried i would need to fly to arizona,and help you thgton the battery cables.also if that dont work befor you rip the one side bage off check your fusses and relays in the trunk ,man were having fun now.love it.

  10. #10
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    Default Same thing also

    I'm having the same issue. Sometimes I have to fiddle with the switch to get it to crank. Seems like it needs to be in just the right position. I took the assembly loose to see if it was dirty contact. It's a closed/covered switch. When I tried starting with the button on the switch instead of started button it cranked everytime. My next try will be and see if it has moved anyleast amount causing the button to not be fully depressed. Good luck and keep us posted on findings, and I'll do the same.

  11. #11
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    Fly on over Napper. If nothing wrong I have lots of beer anyway.

    Snauser did you try the tighten the neg cable under the seat? Mine had a hard time when I had to put on the brake to start. So will see.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    that sounds good are we close enough to doc and forest so we can get those brothers to go out and have a party,then we would have some real fun.and any other brothers and sisters can join in.heres the plane ill be flying in .
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
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    That is a real neat-looking peice of aeronautical engineering!
    Is is just me; or have you actually used it to drop water balloons on your neighborhood???
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schnauzer View Post
    I'm having the same issue. Sometimes I have to fiddle with the switch to get it to crank. Seems like it needs to be in just the right position. I took the assembly loose to see if it was dirty contact. It's a closed/covered switch. When I tried starting with the button on the switch instead of started button it cranked everytime. My next try will be and see if it has moved anyleast amount causing the button to not be fully depressed. Good luck and keep us posted on findings, and I'll do the same.
    got a bud that has a 12 PE that 5 hrs away left it sit for 1/2 hr came out and just got the clicks we picked it up and the hot cable was about melted. Dealer says some starters have been having issues

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