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Ultimate Spyderlover
Does your Spyder squeal?
When rolling the spyder forward or backward, there is a squeal sound. I've heard that it could be brakes, but how could that be if the squeal is happening when brakes are not applied? I was thinking maybe a belt alignment issue causing the bearings to squeal, but I really don't have a clue. The bike does seem to have a little more resistance to rolling than when I first got it, but that's subjective which mean I could be wrong on that. Any thoughts?
2012 Spyder RS S SE5 Magnesium, Power Commander V with Autotune, HMF Exhaust, Green air filter,
TricLed/Custom Dynamics Led Project titled "Knight Rider"
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Mine squeals on the left front on acceleration. We noticed that something was wearing on the balancing weights inside the tire rim. So we bent a pin that was hanging down. But it still squeals, anyway.
Im going to a dealer for a check-up next week and that's on my list.
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Ultimate Spyderlover
Originally Posted by Rattigan_Roger
Mine has developed the squeal when moved and I've isolated it to the left brake rotor.
It also chirps like cricket in concert with throttle position.
Lamont posted that he had a similar problem and attributed it to too tight drive belt.
I couldn't find any follow up on that though.
Thanks. I can let go of this worry now.
2012 Spyder RS S SE5 Magnesium, Power Commander V with Autotune, HMF Exhaust, Green air filter,
TricLed/Custom Dynamics Led Project titled "Knight Rider"
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Originally Posted by Kratos
When rolling the spyder forward or backward, there is a squeal sound. I've heard that it could be brakes, but how could that be if the squeal is happening when brakes are not applied? I was thinking maybe a belt alignment issue causing the bearings to squeal, but I really don't have a clue. The bike does seem to have a little more resistance to rolling than when I first got it, but that's subjective which mean I could be wrong on that. Any thoughts?
Check the belt, If it's hard against the rear sprocket flange [rubbing] that will/can cause squealing.
And can cause some resistance.
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Motorbike Professor
Disc brake pads rub against the rotor continuously. The friction can make them vibrate or chatter, and squeal as a result. The noise should disappear when the brakes are applied.
Brake pads that become glazed or develop hard spots can squeal when applied. These conditions will also reduce your braking effectiveness.
Dirt or accumulated brake dust on the calipers, pins, rotors, or pads can cause brake squeal, as can humid or damp pads. These types can be either with brakes on, brakes off, or both.
Belts can cause squeal as they move against the sprocket flanges or the belt teeth. This depends somewhat on the design, the belt composition, and sometimes weather conditions.
Your squeal could be any of these, but start by seeing if it disappears when the brakes are on, and by cleaning the rotors and pads with brake parts cleaner. If the pads are glazed, hard application of the brakes from a speed of 45-50, several times in a row, can sometimes help. BRP has a service bulletin addressing the belt squeal.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Ultimate Spyderlover
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Disc brake pads rub against the rotor continuously. The friction can make them vibrate or chatter, and squeal as a result. The noise should disappear when the brakes are applied.
Brake pads that become glazed or develop hard spots can squeal when applied. These conditions will also reduce your braking effectiveness.
Dirt or accumulated brake dust on the calipers, pins, rotors, or pads can cause brake squeal, as can humid or damp pads. These types can be either with brakes on, brakes off, or both.
Belts can cause squeal as they move against the sprocket flanges or the belt teeth. This depends somewhat on the design, the belt composition, and sometimes weather conditions.
Your squeal could be any of these, but start by seeing if it disappears when the brakes are on, and by cleaning the rotors and pads with brake parts cleaner. If the pads are glazed, hard application of the brakes from a speed of 45-50, several times in a row, can sometimes help. BRP has a service bulletin addressing the belt squeal.
All of your options make me feel really good. My fear was that it was something not on this list. Thanks for all your help NancyToy. You are a treasure here at Spyderlovers.
2012 Spyder RS S SE5 Magnesium, Power Commander V with Autotune, HMF Exhaust, Green air filter,
TricLed/Custom Dynamics Led Project titled "Knight Rider"
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Squeak
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Disc brake pads rub against the rotor continuously. The friction can make them vibrate or chatter, and squeal as a result. The noise should disappear when the brakes are applied.
Brake pads that become glazed or develop hard spots can squeal when applied. These conditions will also reduce your braking effectiveness.
Dirt or accumulated brake dust on the calipers, pins, rotors, or pads can cause brake squeal, as can humid or damp pads. These types can be either with brakes on, brakes off, or both.
Belts can cause squeal as they move against the sprocket flanges or the belt teeth. This depends somewhat on the design, the belt composition, and sometimes weather conditions.
Your squeal could be any of these, but start by seeing if it disappears when the brakes are on, and by cleaning the rotors and pads with brake parts cleaner. If the pads are glazed, hard application of the brakes from a speed of 45-50, several times in a row, can sometimes help. BRP has a service bulletin addressing the belt squeal.
I also have a squeak or squeal when moving the spyder slowly after first starting up. It is inconsistent and intermittent and doesn't happen every time. Of course, once I proceed, the engine noise masks the squeak if it is still there.
This makes it impossible to diagnose
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I get the squeal backing out of the driveway, either with the engine off or under power. I attribute it to the brake pads. I think putting on a loud exhaust will drown it out.
When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
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JLohPhotos
... Motorcycles are kind of like Baskin Robbins... You're looking at 31 flavors of ice cream, don't you kind of want to know what they all taste like?...
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Very Active Member
Service Bulletin 2012-4 addresses drive belt squeal under acceleration.
Penny and Rick have owned many motorcycles starting in 1974 with Hondas, then to Suzukis, Gold Wings and ultimately Spyders.
74 Honda 360T (pair); 78 Suzuki GS 1000 (pair); 82 Honda Aspencade; 84 Honda 400; 87 Yamaha 1100; 99 Honda Valkyrie; 01 Suzuki Burgman(triked); 02 Honda GL 1800(triked); 10 Spyder RTSE; 11 Spyder RTSM; 12 Spyder RTSL (pair); 20 Spyder RTL (current)
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Active Member
Squeal
Originally Posted by alajeu
I also have a squeak or squeal when moving the spyder slowly after first starting up. It is inconsistent and intermittent and doesn't happen every time. Of course, once I proceed, the engine noise masks the squeak if it is still there.
This makes it impossible to diagnose
I had a squeal also and my dealer said it was my belt. He said they has something like belt dressing to use on it. They fixed it and I have not had any problems since.
James
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Very Active Member
BREAKS
it's your BREAKS... the pads touch the rotor (designed that way to keep water off and to generate 'heat' which is a good thing when you need to stop) and all the noise is, is the vibration caused by the pads 'jumping' on the rotors while your 013.jpg is moving slowly... no problem...
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Ultimate Spyderlover
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
it's your BREAKS... the pads touch the rotor (designed that way to keep water off and to generate 'heat' which is a good thing when you need to stop) and all the noise is, is the vibration caused by the pads 'jumping' on the rotors while your 013.jpg is moving slowly... no problem...
Thanks. My worries are gone.
2012 Spyder RS S SE5 Magnesium, Power Commander V with Autotune, HMF Exhaust, Green air filter,
TricLed/Custom Dynamics Led Project titled "Knight Rider"
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Mine don't squeal, mine tells me in a crying sound; "What took you so long to get me out of the darn garage?'
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Registered Users
Ever since I changed my rear pads to the Gen 3 pads, my Spyder sounds like a dieing cow when backing up. Other than that, they work great.
Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Some Guy
Ever since I changed my rear pads to the Gen 3 pads, my Spyder sounds like a dieing cow when backing up. Other than that, they work great.
Same here with my '08 GS with the original pads & only 2000 miles on it. Comes from the rear brake.
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Very Active Member
Here is one mans solution from long ago
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ighlight=brake
Have not done it myself, but never really had the problem that often. Usually happened for me only in reverse at very low speed. Don't think I have heard it since I changed the rear brake pads to the Gen 3's. At 34 K miles I'm still on the original front pads. Went over to a friends house this weekend to use his better jack and change them out, but put the new pads back in the box as the old ones still have a lot of miles left in them. Does anyone know if we can turn our rotors or do they have to be replaced when they get too big a wear lip.
Happy owner of Silver PE #1232
All The Gear All The Time - ATGATT
Gulf Coast SpyderRyders
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by sabunim5
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ighlight=brake
Have not done it myself, but never really had the problem that often. Usually happened for me only in reverse at very low speed. Don't think I have heard it since I changed the rear brake pads to the Gen 3's. At 34 K miles I'm still on the original front pads. Went over to a friends house this weekend to use his better jack and change them out, but put the new pads back in the box as the old ones still have a lot of miles left in them. Does anyone know if we can turn our rotors or do they have to be replaced when they get too big a wear lip.
I'd replace the rotors. The minimum rotor thickness is 5.33 mm (0.21"). You might be able to turn them and stay above that, but it would be a thin cut and if the are warped at all, they probably would not meet specs after turning. This is no place to save pennies!
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Active Member
My 08 GS had a bit of a squeak when rolling back and I found it was just the breaks rubbing on the disk.
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