Any A/mkt Clutch Kits for 09 SE5's?

[DLE]

When I roll on the throttle at higher RPMs, the engine revs and the Spyder catches up after a couple of seconds. Assuming I may need a new clutch plates, is anyone aware of after market clutches for the se5?

[NancysToy]

What oil are you using? Even if you install new plates, use of the wrong oil will bring the problem back and ruin the new plates in time.

[DLE]

What oil are you using? Even if you install new plates, use of the wrong oil will bring the problem back and ruin the new plates in time.

Amsoil motorcycle oil. Got it from Baja Ron. Other oil used was obtained from BRP for the Spyder.

[pro10is]

My RS-S SE5 does the same thing but only very occasionally and usually only when shifting from first gear. It only has around 5500 miles so the clutch shouldn't be worn. It did start doing this after I switched to Amsoil (the proper motorcycle grade). Now I'm -not-, repeat -not- saying Amsoil has anything to do with it, it's just an observation. I know many run Amsoil with no problems. I don't know what the actual problem is and it occurs too infrequently to figure out why. I do plan to switch back to BRP synthetic on the next oil change just to see if it makes any difference.

I've carefully checked the oil level several times as low oil has been reported to cause such issues, but my oil level is not low or too high. So it's a mystery. If it continues I'll try to have the dealer look at it but it's not likely to occur when he does, so it'll probably go undiagnosed until if and when it gets worse.

[Lamonster]

BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

[DLE]

BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

Thanks Lamont. Would that entail changing the entire clutch assembly, or just the clutch plates?
If I order the parts from my local Spyder dealer, would I need to specify the new clutch to ensure I get the new style?
Thanks for the notice.

[docdoru]

BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

An update clutch was long awaited

[DLE]

BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

Since it has an additional friction plate and steel plate, would this eliminate the need for using additional adjustment plates. Should also add that the new steel driven plate is thicker then the 2.5mm original. When I measured the disk spring on the pressure plate I got 12mm. Measuring the from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate I got 11.5mm. Using the formula for adjustment plate thickness = B - A - nominal dimention 1.1mm, I was +.5mm, and did not add any adjustment plates. No new adjustment plates were sent, so would have had to use the old ones. Clutch still appears to be slipping. Any ideas?

[DLE]

My RS-S SE5 does the same thing but only very occasionally and usually only when shifting from first gear. It only has around 5500 miles so the clutch shouldn't be worn. It did start doing this after I switched to Amsoil (the proper motorcycle grade). Now I'm -not-, repeat -not- saying Amsoil has anything to do with it, it's just an observation. I know many run Amsoil with no problems. I don't know what the actual problem is and it occurs too infrequently to figure out why. I do plan to switch back to BRP synthetic on the next oil change just to see if it makes any difference.

I've carefully checked the oil level several times as low oil has been reported to cause such issues, but my oil level is not low or too high. So it's a mystery. If it continues I'll try to have the dealer look at it but it's not likely to occur when he does, so it'll probably go undiagnosed until if and when it gets worse.

I don't notice it much in 1st or 2nd, but I can replicate it anytime I want in the upper gears. Especially in 5th. It does seem that it has become much more pronounced since my last oil change when I started using Amsoil. But now I think the damage is done and I need to change the clutch plates to prevent further damage. I only have a little over 17000 miles on the machine.

[DragonLorD]

When I roll on the throttle at higher RPMs, the engine revs and the Spyder catches up after a couple of seconds. Assuming I may need a new clutch plates, is anyone aware of after market clutches for the se5?

BRP has known about the weak/slipping clutch since 2009, and put a new clutch in all Spyders since 2011. I bought my 2009 Spyder brand new and they replaced/upgraded a clutch under warranty, it was never a Recall but a well-known issue. Sunshine riders who never open the throttle will never even notice before their clutch slowly and surely smoke itself off - when the warranty is gone.

[DragonLorD]

Easy way how to find out state of your clutch.
If it is 2010 or older - it needs a new clutch!
Test: bring it at 6000 rpm in 5th gear and fully open, if it reacts and accelerates, your clutch is still fine but will get there eventually. If engine revs up but no or delayed acceleration - it's a clutch time Pal.

[DLE]

Easy way how to find out state of your clutch.
If it is 2010 or older - it needs a new clutch.
Test: bring it at 6000 rpm in 5th gear and fully open, if it reacts and accelerates, your clutch is still fine but will get there eventually. If engine revs up but no or delayed acceleration - it's a clutch time Pal.

Thats when I noticed it. Either when I would hit resume on my cruise control or when I would pull out to pass another vehicle and roll the thottle wide open. The RPM's would jump but the Machine would then slowly catch up with the engine.

[Peter Aawen]

Hi OZZ3, rather than waiting for an answer in a thread that hadn't seen a post for 2 & 1/2 years, Spydy76 started a new thread, got his answer, & we haven't seen him since April 2015!

Here's a link to his thread: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...909#post963909

For what it's worth, it looks like the solution was to follow the instructions in the 2013 Workshop Manual, but have a read & see what you think. Good Luck!

[Possible]

Just a heads-up, this thread dates from 2012, so some of the posters may not still be active.