Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 78
  1. #1
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Clutch kit for 09 se5.

    When I roll on the throttle at higher RPMs, the engine revs and the Spyder catches up after a couple of seconds. Assuming I may need a new clutch plates, is anyone aware of after market clutches for the se5?

  2. #2
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    What oil are you using? Even if you install new plates, use of the wrong oil will bring the problem back and ruin the new plates in time.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  3. #3
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    What oil are you using? Even if you install new plates, use of the wrong oil will bring the problem back and ruin the new plates in time.
    Amsoil motorcycle oil. Got it from Baja Ron. Other oil used was obtained from BRP for the Spyder.

  4. #4
    Registered Users pro10is's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    857
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    My RS-S SE5 does the same thing but only very occasionally and usually only when shifting from first gear. It only has around 5500 miles so the clutch shouldn't be worn. It did start doing this after I switched to Amsoil (the proper motorcycle grade). Now I'm -not-, repeat -not- saying Amsoil has anything to do with it, it's just an observation. I know many run Amsoil with no problems. I don't know what the actual problem is and it occurs too infrequently to figure out why. I do plan to switch back to BRP synthetic on the next oil change just to see if it makes any difference.

    I've carefully checked the oil level several times as low oil has been reported to cause such issues, but my oil level is not low or too high. So it's a mystery. If it continues I'll try to have the dealer look at it but it's not likely to occur when he does, so it'll probably go undiagnosed until if and when it gets worse.

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.

  6. #6
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pro10is View Post
    My RS-S SE5 does the same thing but only very occasionally and usually only when shifting from first gear. It only has around 5500 miles so the clutch shouldn't be worn. It did start doing this after I switched to Amsoil (the proper motorcycle grade). Now I'm -not-, repeat -not- saying Amsoil has anything to do with it, it's just an observation. I know many run Amsoil with no problems. I don't know what the actual problem is and it occurs too infrequently to figure out why. I do plan to switch back to BRP synthetic on the next oil change just to see if it makes any difference.

    I've carefully checked the oil level several times as low oil has been reported to cause such issues, but my oil level is not low or too high. So it's a mystery. If it continues I'll try to have the dealer look at it but it's not likely to occur when he does, so it'll probably go undiagnosed until if and when it gets worse.
    I don't notice it much in 1st or 2nd, but I can replicate it anytime I want in the upper gears. Especially in 5th. It does seem that it has become much more pronounced since my last oil change when I started using Amsoil. But now I think the damage is done and I need to change the clutch plates to prevent further damage. I only have a little over 17000 miles on the machine.

  7. #7
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.
    Thanks Lamont. Would that entail changing the entire clutch assembly, or just the clutch plates?
    If I order the parts from my local Spyder dealer, would I need to specify the new clutch to ensure I get the new style?
    Thanks for the notice.

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Thanks Lamont. Would that entail changing the entire clutch assembly, or just the clutch plates?
    If I order the parts from my local Spyder dealer, would I need to specify the new clutch to ensure I get the new style?
    Thanks for the notice.
    It's just the plates and the oil jet and I would ask them to make sure it's the new style clutch.

  9. #9
    Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator docdoru's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Clearwater, FL
    Posts
    5,867
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.
    An update clutch was long awaited
    2013 "Silver Dream" GG Taurus
    2008 "Silver Dream" Spyder RS
    Einstein's theory of drag racing: Time and Speed are Relative.
    Shut up and Race!

  10. #10
    Registered Users Scooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Summerfield, Florida
    Posts
    225
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Angry Clutch Slipping

    I am glade that I am not the only one having problems with clutches slipping, between 1st & 2nd. My 2010 RTSE is at the dealers now for the same problem HOWEVER they can't find anything wrong with it. I had the same problem last year, I took it to the dealer three times and they said nothing was wrong. I took it on a trip to NC. and burned up the clutches which they repaired, when I got back.
    I am having the same problem again, and again they said that nothing is wrong, they said that because I installed "K"grips, the paddles were causing the problem HOWEVER the first time it happened, I didn't have the grips on the bike. Lamont, I sent an e-mail to Carlo he said that if the Tech. couldn't find any thing wrong to call them, I don't think he did. When the Tech took it for a ride he found that he had a problem shifting into low gears (I was not having the problem) and he found a code on the computer, all he did is to order new paddles. Here we go again, except that my Warranty ran out this month. Now it looks like if the clutches go out now, its my nickle.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    Mods= luggage rack, rear trunk shelf & Mirror

  11. #11
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    It's just the plates and the oil jet and I would ask them to make sure it's the new style clutch.
    Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
    If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.

  12. #12
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
    If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.
    Thanks for your research. Much appreciated! I'll make good use of this soon.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  13. #13
    Registered Users pro10is's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    857
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
    If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.
    Are you going to install it yourself? If so please consider posting your experience here, and some photos of the install would be great.

  14. #14
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    6,263
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Just finished ordering the new clutch. The part number isn't in the computer yet. They were finally able to obtain it and order same.
    If anyone is interested, the part number is 420281935, listed as a clutch kit. Again, thanks for letting me know about it.
    Since the SE clutch and the SM clutch are identical except one of the clutch plates is thicker, I would assume the kit number you quoted is for the SE and there would be a different number for the SM?

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  15. #15
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Since the SE clutch and the SM clutch are identical except one of the clutch plates is thicker, I would assume the kit number you quoted is for the SE and there would be a different number for the SM?
    Roadster 2012-7 - New Clutch Service Parts
    - 420 281 930 (SM5)
    - 420 281 935 (SE5)

  16. #16
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    Roadster 2012-7 - New Clutch Service Parts
    - 420 281 930 (SM5)
    - 420 281 935 (SE5)
    Thanks Lamont, I only obtained the SE5 number as that was what I ordered. Clutch is supposed to arrive next Tuesday. I'll take some photos and post them on the installation.
    Do you know what changing the oil jet entails. I have not been able to find out anything regarding it's location and/or procedure regarding changing it.

  17. #17
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Thanks Lamont, I only obtained the SE5 number as that was what I ordered. Clutch is supposed to arrive next Tuesday. I'll take some photos and post them on the installation.
    Do you know what changing the oil jet entails. I have not been able to find out anything regarding it's location and/or procedure regarding changing it.

  18. #18
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    Thanks, looks pretty straight forward.

  19. #19
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    BRP has just came out with a new clutch that has an extra friction plate and steel plate along with a new oil jet. This will fit all Spyder models and years.
    Since it has an additional friction plate and steel plate, would this eliminate the need for using additional adjustment plates. Should also add that the new steel driven plate is thicker then the 2.5mm original. When I measured the disk spring on the pressure plate I got 12mm. Measuring the from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate I got 11.5mm. Using the formula for adjustment plate thickness = B - A - nominal dimention 1.1mm, I was +.5mm, and did not add any adjustment plates. No new adjustment plates were sent, so would have had to use the old ones. Clutch still appears to be slipping. Any ideas?

  20. #20
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Since it has an additional friction plate and steel plate, would this eliminate the need for using additional adjustment plates. Should also add that the new steel driven plate is thicker then the 2.5mm original. When I measured the disk spring on the pressure plate I got 12mm. Measuring the from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate I got 11.5mm. Using the formula for adjustment plate thickness = B - A - nominal dimention 1.1mm, I was +.5mm, and did not add any adjustment plates. No new adjustment plates were sent, so would have had to use the old ones. Clutch still appears to be slipping. Any ideas?
    The clutch pack doesn't come with the shims/ You want 1mm and I would say .5 is not enough. You'll have to order the shim kit.

  21. #21
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    The clutch pack doesn't come with the shims/ You want 1mm and I would say .5 is not enough. You'll have to order the shim kit.
    Any reason I could not use the 1mm plate from the original pack? It isn't burned or warped. Also the example given in the manual, would seem to imply that measurement B, is greater then A. This was not the case with the new clutch, as a result, A being .5mm greater then B. So adding 1mm, and using their formula, would make the nominal dimention further skewed, or am I looking at this wrong?

  22. #22
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Any reason I could not use the 1mm plate from the original pack? It isn't burned or warped. Also the example given in the manual, would seem to imply that measurement B, is greater then A. This was not the case with the new clutch, as a result, A being .5mm greater then B. So adding 1mm, and using their formula, would make the nominal dimention further skewed, or am I looking at this wrong?
    This is one of those deals where I have to have it hands on, I can't do it in my head but I know you want to wind up with 1mm clearance or I think it was 1.2mm but I would have to check the book on that. You can use the old shims if it comes out right.

  23. #23
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    33
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    This is one of those deals where I have to have it hands on, I can't do it in my head but I know you want to wind up with 1mm clearance or I think it was 1.2mm but I would have to check the book on that. You can use the old shims if it comes out right.
    Removed the clutch cover and remeasured the pressure plate and disk spring, and the distance from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate, and found that while I had measured it correctly, I had read it wrong. And after thinking about it, realized, those measurements should come out to the same as the measurements of the OEM clutch, as a new disk spring was also part of the disk kit. After measuring, the adjustment plate thickness did come out to exactly what the original clutch had and after installing the plates, the clutch performed great. I made a quick 3 day trip up up the Idaho panhandle, across the North Cascades highway, down I-5 and back across Stevens pass. So it recieved a good workout.
    A couple of questions; 1) since I had caught my clutch slipping early, and the friction plates were not burned or warped, nor were the steel driven plates, and the disk spring was well within spec., would it have been possible to measure the clutch free play, get a shim kit, make the proper adjustment and save myself the $500+ expense for a new clutch kit. 2) I do track my fuel economy, not that I am overly concerned about it, but it does give me a snapshot of the overall health of the machine. I did notice that it was dropping off, not a great amount, but some. Nothing else had changed. Now it is back to where it was. Just curious if other riders that have noticed a drop off in economy might be experiencing clutch issues.
    In looking back, mine probably started awhile before manifesting itself to the point of becoming really noticible. I also am very cognisant of my RPMs when riding.

  24. #24
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Removed the clutch cover and remeasured the pressure plate and disk spring, and the distance from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate, and found that while I had measured it correctly, I had read it wrong. And after thinking about it, realized, those measurements should come out to the same as the measurements of the OEM clutch, as a new disk spring was also part of the disk kit. After measuring, the adjustment plate thickness did come out to exactly what the original clutch had and after installing the plates, the clutch performed great. I made a quick 3 day trip up up the Idaho panhandle, across the North Cascades highway, down I-5 and back across Stevens pass. So it recieved a good workout.
    A couple of questions; 1) since I had caught my clutch slipping early, and the friction plates were not burned or warped, nor were the steel driven plates, and the disk spring was well within spec., would it have been possible to measure the clutch free play, get a shim kit, make the proper adjustment and save myself the $500+ expense for a new clutch kit. 2) I do track my fuel economy, not that I am overly concerned about it, but it does give me a snapshot of the overall health of the machine. I did notice that it was dropping off, not a great amount, but some. Nothing else had changed. Now it is back to where it was. Just curious if other riders that have noticed a drop off in economy might be experiencing clutch issues.
    In looking back, mine probably started awhile before manifesting itself to the point of becoming really noticible. I also am very cognisant of my RPMs when riding.
    You might have been able to shim it back to spec and saved some bucks what what fun would that be?
    I had a clutch that was shimmed wrong but it didn't have any effect on my mileage that I know of. It did have an effect on some of my parts. It's all good now. I'm glad to see you stuck it out in finding the issue. Not too many folks here get their hands dirty that deep into the Spyder.

    Not enough clearance



  25. #25
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Mitchell, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    6,263
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DLE View Post
    Removed the clutch cover and remeasured the pressure plate and disk spring, and the distance from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate, and found that while I had measured it correctly, I had read it wrong. And after thinking about it, realized, those measurements should come out to the same as the measurements of the OEM clutch, as a new disk spring was also part of the disk kit. After measuring, the adjustment plate thickness did come out to exactly what the original clutch had and after installing the plates, the clutch performed great. I made a quick 3 day trip up up the Idaho panhandle, across the North Cascades highway, down I-5 and back across Stevens pass. So it recieved a good workout.
    A couple of questions; 1) since I had caught my clutch slipping early, and the friction plates were not burned or warped, nor were the steel driven plates, and the disk spring was well within spec., would it have been possible to measure the clutch free play, get a shim kit, make the proper adjustment and save myself the $500+ expense for a new clutch kit. 2) I do track my fuel economy, not that I am overly concerned about it, but it does give me a snapshot of the overall health of the machine. I did notice that it was dropping off, not a great amount, but some. Nothing else had changed. Now it is back to where it was. Just curious if other riders that have noticed a drop off in economy might be experiencing clutch issues.
    In looking back, mine probably started awhile before manifesting itself to the point of becoming really noticible. I also am very cognisant of my RPMs when riding.
    Thanks for letting us know how you made out. I find this stuff interesting.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •