Electrical Issue With Trailer

[Nudels2u75]

New Bike and Trailer were just Delivered, Dealership did all the work, Hooked up trailer and I am not getting any lights, There is a mode you have to set on the function @ the Stero Controls for Trailer Mode. I have done that and for some reason everything on the bike seems to be working correctly but nothing at all on the trailer. The Can-Am plugs are a little different, but I put a test light on this and it appears to be getting power to it. This is very difficult test by yourself, as when I get off of work the shops are closed.


I also Had the dealership install back-off lights- (Wig-Wag) They also work great on the spyder. They make the lights strobe while holding down the brake and continuesly repeat sequence.


Currently I have no lights on trailer at all.

I would like to know if anybody has the Can-Am trailer and has any trouble shooting tips.

[harrypottar]

If the dealer just delivered it then one would assume they tested it.

Give the dealer a quick call and ask, did they check they trailer lights, have them pick it up.

Other wise it out with the tester, you don't need to be in trailer mode for the lights to work.

You need to test if power is getting to the trailer harness on the Spyder, could be lose connection, fuse etc. Its new I would just have the dealer fix it.

The trailer mode chanes the shift points (on SE5), and tells the nanny that your in trailer mode and it alters how it reacts.

Harry

[Nudels2u75]

When the spyder and trailer were delivered, the battery was dead from doing all of the other electrical work that had been done, I charged the battery and hooked up the trailer, all of the lights work on the spyder, but nothing at all on the trailer.

I only have tested with the trailer fully connected, harness and Hitch.

I also thought it may be a grounding problem, or an in-line fuze somewhere on the trailer.

Dealership told me the trailer comes pre-wired, and this makes sense.

I temporary ran a jumper from the spyder to the trailer for a ground and nothing.

I tested the plug that the dealership installed on the spyder, and it is hot....I was thinking that they may have possibly installed the wiring on the plug to the spyder incorrectly.

I guess I need the wiring harness schematic to test it better on the spyder, Could be the plug has just been wired wrong.

The delima is the dealership is 200 miles away, and I am currently working in Camanche, Iowa, and have no other choice than to miss work to bring it back in...I am currently working 6 days a week and 12 hours a day for the next several months. I am not certain that I want them working on it anymore. As I have taken off most of the parts I just paid them to install trying to trouble shoot the problem.

Dealership told me they did test the trailer once, BUTT that was before they installed, CB radio, XM stero, New Zeon headlight system, The New LED tailight that fits into the top of the trunck, and the new Back-Off light. I had dealership install about $10,000.00 worth of accesories.(After all of this was installed they said they never tested the trailer again) Big mistake, that also tells me the CB, & XM stero has not been tested...

I am not much of an electrical guy, but have some type of direction I could do it...At this point I do not want another dealership working on it...I have the Harley Davidon Screaming Eagle Tour bike, and Honda Goldwing Tour bike, and a few more. I find the more often I send them in the more problems are created. I now try to do most things on my own with some help.

I did purchase the BRP-Spyder Shop Manuel and today I will tear into it

[MarkLawson]

Check fuse F7 in the front trunk. It works the circuit for the trailer running lights and the reverse system. If F7 is blown, you can't engage reverse either. Blinker and brake lights would still work on the trailer. If F7 is blown and the trailer is attached, turn off the ignition and replace the fuse. If it blows again, even as you touch the fuse blades to the fuse holder, with the key off, you have a bad trailer wiring harness in the Spyder. This harness runs from a connector near the battery and ends with the plug on the bottom of the left saddlebag. This is a known issue and must be replaced by the dealer under warranty. Another associated issue is while the trailer is attached, transmissions with the CB send out a huge amount of static to radios receiving your transmission. It's a bad grounding issue in the same trailer wiring harness on the Spyder. The trailer does NOT use the tongue as a ground.

[Nudels2u75]

Check fuse F7 in the front trunk. It works the circuit for the trailer running lights and the reverse system. If F7 is blown, you can't engage reverse either. Blinker and brake lights would still work on the trailer. If F7 is blown and the trailer is attached, turn off the ignition and replace the fuse. If it blows again, even as you touch the fuse blades to the fuse holder, with the key off, you have a bad trailer wiring harness in the Spyder. This harness runs from a connector near the battery and ends with the plug on the bottom of the left saddlebag. This is a known issue and must be replaced by the dealer under warranty. Another associated issue is while the trailer is attached, transmissions with the CB send out a huge amount of static to radios receiving your transmission. It's a bad grounding issue in the same trailer wiring harness on the Spyder. The trailer does NOT use the tongue as a ground.

I am thinking that maybe the spyder trailer plug is wired incorrectly, It is getting power to the end of the plug but only to the center pin. When I get off work today I am going to do some more checking.

[NancysToy]

I am thinking that maybe the spyder trailer plug is wired incorrectly, It is getting power to the end of the plug but only to the center pin. When I get off work today I am going to do some more checking.

????? The center pin on the RT trailer connector is the ground. Something is amiss...possibly your testing procedures.

It is doubtfull the trailer is incorrectly wired. It is factory wired and I have yet to see a faulty harness...unless it was modified. One other thing to check real quickly. Many dealers have improperly installed the trailer module, and have left the cable exposed on the inside of the wheel well. It contacts the belt/sprocket and gets worn through. Check under the fender for possible damage.

Here is a pinout diagram for the trailer module. Not all of these pins will be functional on all versions. For the latest version, the brake and turn signal functions are combined on pins C & D.

[harrypottar]

I'm sorry I know your eager to get out and about, but if I had spent that much money on top of the cost of spyder I would be on the phone to the dealer,

Its un-acceptable and inconceivable! (fan of princess bride movie) that they would drop off your new bike with a dead battery, what where they thinking.

Have them come pick it up and fix it, tell them to return asap after they have checked and tested everything is correct.

harry

[MarkLawson]

????? The center pin on the RT trailer connector is the ground. Something is amiss...possibly your testing procedures.

It is doubtfull the trailer is incorrectly wired. It is factory wired and I have yet to see a faulty harness...unless it was modified. One other thing to check real quickly. Many dealers have improperly installed the trailer module, and have left the cable exposed on the inside of the wheel well. It contacts the belt/sprocket and gets worn through. Check under the fender for possible damage.

Here is a pinout diagram for the trailer module. Not all of these pins will be functional on all versions. For the latest version, the brake and turn signal functions are combined on pins C & D.

Scotty, I hate to dispute anything with you, but I know of at least 3 faulty harnesses (aka: trailer module), including Fred Rau's & mine & at least one other SpyderLover member, who provided me with the proper part number. I discussed this with Fred at Maggie Valley last year & he told me that his was the first. The way they discovered it was that whenever he would transmit over his CB, listeners complained about all the noise he was transmitting. One other rider also noticed that that the left rear brake light on his trailer flickered while he keyed the mic. He reported it to BRP, who looked into it and found the trailer module had a faulty ground in it. This may have been a separate issue with the same part. All I know is that my CB transmissions had the noise problem and at a later time I lost my trailer running lights and reverse at a later time. When I consulted this forum, another member had had the same problem and gave me the part number. I called my dealer, they called BRP, who confirmed the part was likely faulty & replaced it when I got home. This fixed the trailer lights and reverse problem. It wasn't until later, when talking with Fred, that I discovered it also resolved the CB problem.

[Nudels2u75]

????? The center pin on the RT trailer connector is the ground. Something is amiss...possibly your testing procedures.

It is doubtfull the trailer is incorrectly wired. It is factory wired and I have yet to see a faulty harness...unless it was modified. One other thing to check real quickly. Many dealers have improperly installed the trailer module, and have left the cable exposed on the inside of the wheel well. It contacts the belt/sprocket and gets worn through. Check under the fender for possible damage.

Here is a pinout diagram for the trailer module. Not all of these pins will be functional on all versions. For the latest version, the brake and turn signal functions are combined on pins C & D.

Where the dealership Installed the plug, on the bottom side of my left saddlebag....the center pin is the hot one....thanks for the diagram, this is what I was looking for.....Well this is what looks to be the problem, now Soon as I can get off work, hopefully it is not raining...thanks Nudels

[NancysToy]

Scotty, I hate to dispute anything with you, but I know of at least 3 faulty harnesses (aka: trailer module), including Fred Rau's & mine & at least one other SpyderLover member, who provided me with the proper part number. I discussed this with Fred at Maggie Valley last year & he told me that his was the first. The way they discovered it was that whenever he would transmit over his CB, listeners complained about all the noise he was transmitting. One other rider also noticed that that the left rear brake light on his trailer flickered while he keyed the mic. He reported it to BRP, who looked into it and found the trailer module had a faulty ground in it. This may have been a separate issue with the same part. All I know is that my CB transmissions had the noise problem and at a later time I lost my trailer running lights and reverse at a later time. When I consulted this forum, another member had had the same problem and gave me the part number. I called my dealer, they called BRP, who confirmed the part was likely faulty & replaced it when I got home. This fixed the trailer lights and reverse problem. It wasn't until later, when talking with Fred, that I discovered it also resolved the CB problem.

I'm not talking about the trailer module. A number of thoise have failed. I think that may be why the redesigned them. I'm talking about the RT-622 wiring itself. I have not seen any of that go bad or heard of any. I've seen and heard of a light itself failing, but never the trailer wiring. It's possible, but not probable. It is sure not the first place I would look.

[NancysToy]

Where the dealership Installed the plug, on the bottom side of my left saddlebag....the center pin is the hot one....thanks for the diagram, this is what I was looking for.....Well this is what looks to be the problem, now Soon as I can get off work, hopefully it is not raining...thanks Nudels

"Hot" to what...another terminal, or a chassis or battery ground. If it is hot to ground, you have a faulty or improperly installed module, or it is damaged and shorted out inside the wheel well. If it just check "hot" to another terminal, it is the other terminal that is hot, and you have the poles reversed on your tester.

[Nudels2u75]

"Hot" to what...another terminal, or a chassis or battery ground. If it is hot to ground, you have a faulty or improperly installed module, or it is damaged and shorted out inside the wheel well. If it just check "hot" to another terminal, it is the other terminal that is hot, and you have the poles reversed on your tester.

I put my alligator clip on the frame of the scooter, I stuck the pointed part of the tester, the only pin that was hot was the center pin.

I turned on emergency flashers---only the center pin hot---I tested all pins

left blinker---only center the pin hot---I tested all pins

right blinker--only center pin hot---I tested all pins

held brake lights on--only center pin hot---I tested all pins

running lights---only center pin hot---I tested all pins




The bike had not be driven so therefore I would not think that is a wear problem in the wheel well, but I will check that this afternoon

[MarkLawson]

I'm not talking about the trailer module. A number of thoise have failed. I think that may be why the redesigned them. I'm talking about the RT-622 wiring itself. I have not seen any of that go bad or heard of any. I've seen and heard of a light itself failing, but never the trailer wiring. It's possible, but not probable. It is sure not the first place I would look.

My error Scotty. Thanks.

[Nudels2u75]

I put my alligator clip on the frame of the scooter, I stuck the pointed part of the tester, the only pin that was hot was the center pin.

I turned on emergency flashers---only the center pin hot---I tested all pins

left blinker---only center the pin hot---I tested all pins

right blinker--only center pin hot---I tested all pins

held brake lights on--only center pin hot---I tested all pins

running lights---only center pin hot---I tested all pins


Plug for wig-wag.jpg




The bike had not be driven so therefore I would not think that is a wear problem in the wheel well, but I will check that this afternoon

this is wiring dealership did to back-off lights

[NancysToy]

Either your trailer module has been damaged, or the back-off module is screwing up the works. Many back-ff modules are incompatible with the Spyder RT. I can't say that the wiring the dealer did is first class, either...very amateurish, and jury-rigged appearing. At this point I would remove the back-off module from the system and test the trailer module again. If it still is hot at ground, it has either failed or has been hooked up in reverse...probably from bypassing the plug-n-play wiring. Your dealer is to blame, but whether or not he will make it right is anybody's guess. Sorry for the bad news.

[Nudels2u75]

Either your trailer module has been damaged, or the back-off module is screwing up the works. Many back-ff modules are incompatible with the Spyder RT. I can't say that the wiring the dealer did is first class, either...very amateurish, and jury-rigged appearing. At this point I would remove the back-off module from the system and test the trailer module again. If it still is hot at ground, it has either failed or has been hooked up in reverse...probably from bypassing the plug-n-play wiring. Your dealer is to blame, but whether or not he will make it right is anybody's guess. Sorry for the bad news.

I will see how it goes this afternoon & tomorrow, thanks so much, Nudels

[Nudels2u75]

????? The center pin on the RT trailer connector is the ground. Something is amiss...possibly your testing procedures.

It is doubtfull the trailer is incorrectly wired. It is factory wired and I have yet to see a faulty harness...unless it was modified. One other thing to check real quickly. Many dealers have improperly installed the trailer module, and have left the cable exposed on the inside of the wheel well. It contacts the belt/sprocket and gets worn through. Check under the fender for possible damage.

Here is a pinout diagram for the trailer module. Not all of these pins will be functional on all versions. For the latest version, the brake and turn signal functions are combined on pins C & D.

I just got home from work and fixin to get started again.

[MarkLawson]

I just got home from work and fixin to get started again.

The trailer module is plug and play.

[Nudels2u75]

About 20 hours of trouble shooting & got-er-done....The T-Plug was not pluged in very well and after resolving that issue the modulator started working properly getting the right pins to get hot when being used. Then the trailer was still not getting any heat. The plug was hot so I started tracing down the wires. The harness has that lead wire that goes inside of the tounge and then it has another plug which then goes into the trailer and plugs into the harness. I disconnected it and it was hot, put die-electric grease on it and plugged it back in good and everything works.

While I was in under all that plastic, I put die-electric grease on every plug that I could find.

I have pulled the trailer around for a few hours now on some rough roads after dark and have not noticed any shorts.

Thanks so very much for all of the trouble shooting help.

[Camdenlake]

Thanks for the diagram NancysToy will be a handy bit to have. As the the OP wow thats some poor wiring they did. Glad to hear you got it sorted. That is why i usually try to do stuff my self hard to find a place that will do a good job. When i find them i try to hang onto them . Have fun with your new setup.