UPDATE - Custom Performance Anti-Sway Bar for the RT

[SPYDER Mike]

BLACK works just fine for ME

[Bob Denman]

Unboxed mine just while ago and it is... the prettiest shade of... and perfectly matches... BLACK!

[cjackg]

Just when I was starting to like the idea of JD Green !

[bmwlarry]

I'm really interested how the install goes. My plans was to remove the frunk but if it goes well without, I may forgo the removal! Tomorrow is the day!

[BajaRon]

Custom Sway Bar Insall Tip.

This is a trick I've stolen (with permission) from cjackg and it may make your Sway Bar install go a bit easier. This trick is NOT included in the instructions I sent with the bars.

There are 4 bolts (#24) holding the 2 Bushing Clamps (#23) in place. Remove the 2 lower bolts but do not remove the 2 upper bolts. Instead, loosen them until you have enough room to drop the OEM sway bar down and remove it.

This saves you having to relocate the Bushing Clamps on the frame (somewhat of a pain) and you avoid having to relocate the 2 upper bolts in their respective holes (also a pain) and you don't have to put the nuts back on these 2 bolts.

These 2 bolts are not that bad but still the most difficult part of the install. Doing it this way should save you time, effort and aggravation.

The lower Bushing Clamp bolts and the Heim Joint Link bolts (#27) are easy to access.



Thank you cjackg and everyone else who have helped me make this project go. I would greatly appreciate feedback not only on the Sway Bar, but also on the install instructions. It's not a difficult install but anything I can do to make it easier will be very much appreciated.

[bmwlarry]

Ron, here is a question for you. I have a full size Handy lift as well as a smaller J&S jack. Which would be best for the install? Does the install go better with weight on the tires or better with the suspension hanging unweighted?

[BajaRon]

Ron, here is a question for you. I have a full size Handy lift as well as a smaller J&S jack. Which would be best for the install? Does the install go better with weight on the tires or better with the suspension hanging unweighted?

I think the Handy Lift will be easier. I've done it both ways. Being able to stand up is a plus. You don't need to take weight off the wheels as the only thing that will affect is access to the sway bar ends which are easily accessed either way.

If you have enough room to work between the bottom of the Spyder and the lift you're good to go.

[bmwlarry]

Ron
i have read directions prior to doing the install and do I understand correctly that the install can be done by removing the lower frunk bolts? Does this mean that none of the bodywork or bodywork fasteners need to be removed or losened to pull out the frunk enough to get in? Correct?

I think the Handy Lift will be easier. I've done it both ways. Being able to stand up is a plus. You don't need to take weight off the wheels as the only thing that will affect is access to the sway bar ends which are easily accessed either way.

If you have enough room to work between the bottom of the Spyder and the lift you're good to go.

[BajaRon]

Ron
i have read directions prior to doing the install and do I understand correctly that the install can be done by removing the lower frunk bolts? Does this mean that none of the bodywork or bodywork fasteners need to be removed or losened to pull out the frunk enough to get in? Correct?

Seems there was a step that I failed to include. You'll need to pull the 2, easy access pop-off panels (Right and Left side). This exposes the large bolt (#68 below) that fastens the long tupperware piece that holds the fog lights to the frame at the back. These bolts keep the Frunk from moving upwards which you need to get access to the Sway Bar components.

Diagram is of Left Side (sitting on Spyder). I'm pointing to the same bolt on the Right Side.

[bmwlarry]

Rn
i have the frunk emptied, skid plate removed and the two bottom frunk bolts removed. The most I can get the frunk to move forward is 1 inch. Is there something I'm missing? It moves 1 inch and then the whole front, suspension and all starts to raise. It looks as though the foglights may be the issue.
Larry

[Sarge707]

You need to loosen the 4 10mm bolts that attach the trunk to the top frame (Just a few Turns) enough so the trunk will pivot forward a little BUT you don,t have to take the bolts out. My 2012 seemed to have 6 bolts - You will see them!

[Bob Denman]

Mine didn't arrive today...

[BajaRon]

Rn
i have the frunk emptied, skid plate removed and the two bottom frunk bolts removed. The most I can get the frunk to move forward is 1 inch. Is there something I'm missing? It moves 1 inch and then the whole front, suspension and all starts to raise. It looks as though the foglights may be the issue.
Larry

Seems there was a step that I failed to include. You'll need to pull the 2, easy access pop-off panels (Right and Left side). This exposes the large bolt (#68 below) that fastens the long tupperware piece that holds the fog lights to the frame at the back. This is what is keeping you from moving the Frunk.

I know cjackg recommends loosening the 4 bolts that hold the frunk at the back. This may work but I don't think it is necessary. I believe that removing the pop-off panels and remove this bolt on each side will be easier. I will post a picture here shortly. (Picture posted)

Diagram is of Left Side (sitting on Spyder). I'm pointing to the same bolt on the Right Side.

[quickster47]

Seems there was a step that I failed to include. You'll need to pull the 2, easy access pop-off panels (Right and Left side). This exposes the large bolt (#63 below) that fastens the long tupperware piece that holds the fog lights to the frame at the back. This is what is keeping you from moving the Frunk.

I know cjackg recommends loosening the 4 bolts that hold the frunk at the back. This may work but I don't think it is necessary. I believe that removing the pop-off panels and remove this bolt on each side will be easier. I will post a picture here shortly. (Picture posted)

Should that be screw #68 in the drawing?

Carl

[BajaRon]

Should that be screw #68 in the drawing?

Carl

Yes... Previous post fixed.... Thanks!

[bmwlarry]

So I have completed the install after a few calls to Ron. As stated above you need to loosen the screws holding the see panel. I did not loosen the top frunk screws at all. Also the bolts in the aluminum collar clamps are not metric, they are 5/32. I have included a ink to some photos below that may clarify some things. I am a picture guy!


Here is link to the install album
http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/z...bar%20install/


Now as for the performance - I havnt had a chance to ride yet! Sorry

[Bob Denman]

It's here!!
Now... Does anybody want to take my Missus shopping for the day so that I can crawl up under the bike and figure all of this out?

[gypsy_100]

So I have completed the install after a few calls to Ron. As stated above you need to loosen the screws holding the see panel. I did not loosen the top frunk screws at all. Also the bolts in the aluminum collar clamps are not metric, they are 5/32. I have included a ink to some photos below that may clarify some things. I am a picture guy!


Here is link to the install album
http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/z...bar%20install/


Now as for the performance - I havnt had a chance to ride yet! Sorry

Great photo album -- makes it look like a piece of cake if they follow your procedure. Now I need to hear some evaluations from those that have Elka's installed to help me decide. ???

[bmwlarry]

I have Elkas and will evaluate soon. I am starting with 18/29 psi, rebound set at 22 clicks. It looks cold and maybe real wet today so I may not get out.

[kinggeek]

Arrived, installed and tested!

All I can at is OH MY FREAKIN' GAWD! THIS THING IS AWESOME, A MUST HAVE FOR ANY RT OWNER!

I noticed a difference from the first right hand turn in my neighborhood at 25MPH and it only got better in the twisties!

I took an unfortunately short ride in some of the twisties I am most familiar with and the difference is amazing! Turns that uses to put a little fear in me where smooth as glass at higher speeds than ever before.

I do see one downside for Ron though, he is probably going to be selling fewer brake pads as a result of this amazing performance enhancing product.

Well done!

[Sarge707]

I have Elkas and will evaluate soon. I am starting with 18/29 psi, rebound set at 22 clicks. It looks cold and maybe real wet today so I may not get out.

Just moved my Elka,s to the RT with same set up as yours- I,m interested in the difference you find!

[Bob Denman]

Hey Larry!
Did you ever get any of these decals made up??
IMG_4962w.jpg
If they were available in some lighter colors (to go with a BLUE bike), I'd sure like to get one...

[bmwlarry]

Bob

I have decided that making a set for me "probably" was OK but producing moore and making them available to others was probably not a good idea - from Ron's viewpoint. His name probably has some copyright restrictions actually making it unlawful! We gotta watch out for our vendors!

Larry

[Bob Denman]

Got it! Thanks!
Maybe we should twist HIS arm a bit to get some "RonVinyl" produced for us...

[BajaRon]

Bob

I have decided that making a set for me "probably" was OK but producing moore and making them available to others was probably not a good idea - from Ron's viewpoint. His name probably has some copyright restrictions actually making it unlawful! We gotta watch out for our vendors!

Larry

If there is enough interest in some BajaRon vinyl decals I am open to having some made. Right now I send a decal that matches my banner ad with every purchase. But may not be what people want to put on their Spyder.

I can be swayed by the masses. After all, you did get me to go Gloss Black for the RT bars.