Vibration...BRP's solution by the "Ostrich method

[Ride Master]

here is a thread from me and BRP:

Everyone knows that the belt is too loose for being as long as it is. The vibration conversation is all over the "Spyderlovers" forum. BRP lowered the spec because you were having bearing and sprocket problems.

At the higher original spec, there was no vibration.


I Have 2 words: one starts with a B and the other starts with an S.


You should do what is right and increase the spec back to 700 Newtons +/- 150 and let us enjoy our rides while you concentrate on your bearing problems.


Bob Lintz aka "Ride Master"
Laguna Niguel, CA
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On Jul 23, 2012, at 1:32 PM, Spyder, TechSupport wrote:

Greetings Mr. Lintz,

All our Spyder vehicles have a vibration around 5400 RPM which is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. If your dealership does not feel that this vibration that you are experiencing with your vehicle is the normal vibration, they should contact our technical assistance line for dealerships to work on diagnosing and resolving the issue. Being a normal characteristic of the vehicle, this harmonic vibration has no need to be fixed.


Have a great day!

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2012/7/6 Bob Lintz wrote:

I've had my 2012 RT Limited in 5 times for the vibration.
1st 3 times I was told it was ok. Well it's not ok. I know they reported it to you.
I see complaints from other Spyder RT owners about the same thing
I had my dealer install the SmoothSpyder belt tensioner.
They set the drive belt at minimum tension and the tensioner at 10 pounds...all this did was change the rpm at which the vibration starts from 5200 to 5500 rpm
Then, my dealer adjusted the drive belt to 600, the maximum, and the tensioner to 12 pounds. All this did was change the rpm at which the vibration starts from 5500 to 6000
My dealer refuses to tighten the drive belt further but, we all know that's what is needed. The folks at SmoothSpyder suggest the drive belt be set to 700-800 Newtons but know you are currently not allowing it.
The vibration is serious and is going to damage the RT. I want it fixed and fixed now. Either that or I am going to retain a "Lemon Law" specialist. The drive belt is just too long to be at 450 +/- 150 Newtons

[fastfraser]

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:

The vibration is serious and is going to damage the RT. I want it fixed and fixed now. Either that or I am going to retain a "Lemon Law" specialist. The drive belt is just too long to be at 450 +/- 150 Newtons[/QUOTE]

Let us know how that threat works out for you !

[BajaRon]

Oh! Sorry... Wrong Newtons....

[spyder3]

" Being a normal characteristic of the vehicle, this harmonic vibration has no need to be fixed."

Saying its normal doesn't mean its ok.....

[samewok]

What gear are you in when you get the vibration. My 2011 only has the vibration if I try to increase my speed in 5 gear. If I shift to 4 gear to increase speed quickly.

[SpyderAnn01]

They also think that uneven tire wear is normal.

[spyder3]

They also think that uneven tire wear is normal.

I must have missed that one

[MidLifeCrisis]

What gear are you in when you get the vibration. My 2011 only has the vibration if I try to increase my speed in 5 gear. If I shift to 4 gear to increase speed quickly.

Agreed. The belt tensioner was high on my list of mods, till I realized the better fix was to downshift when wishing to accelerate in 5th. Not saying this is the exact same issue for the OP. Just confirming the same discovery.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[shelbydave]

I experience the same vibrations around 5000-5500, when I shift the vibration goes away. Since my speed is still the same, the belt is still moving at the same rate, however, engine RPM is down to 4000 or so. How is the belt causing this vibration? It seems to me that it is engine vibration instead.

[Illinois Boy]

For what it is worth -- which is about two-cents... but it worked for me.

I had the same problem. Vibrations at one point were all over the spectrum.

I changed my shifting to higher RPM's, and cruise in all gears at higher RPM's.

Mysteriously... all vibrations disappeared... except for one spot, and that is in the 5,100 range when in 5th gear.

So, I run my RT in 4th if I am going to stay at the range. There isn't a vibration and the motor runs smooth and can do that all-day.

I only use 5th at 65 MPH and up on level terrain (only as an "over-drive" gear). If I have to accelerate, I'll downshift and do so, then shift back to 5th -- unless I am above 5,100 and don't need to do a hard acceleration. (to keep 5th above 5,100 after shifting you have to watch the RPM's and shift around that point). If it ever vibrates, it is only for a second or two when passing-through 5,100.

No longer have the vibration, and I happen to know my belt is set at the "new" lower standard.

Again... for what it is worth.

[vondalyn]

For what it is worth -- which is about two-cents... but it worked for me.

I had the same problem. Vibrations at one point were all over the spectrum.

I changed my shifting to higher RPM's, and cruise in all gears at higher RPM's.

Mysteriously... all vibrations disappeared... except for one spot, and that is in the 5,100 range when in 5th gear.

So, I run my RT in 4th if I am going to stay at the range. There isn't a vibration and the motor runs smooth and can do that all-day.

I only use 5th at 65 MPH and up on level terrain (only as an "over-drive" gear). If I have to accelerate, I'll downshift and do so, then shift back to 5th -- unless I am above 5,100 and don't need to do a hard acceleration. (to keep 5th above 5,100 after shifting you have to watch the RPM's and shift around that point). If it ever vibrates, it is only for a second or two when passing-through 5,100.

No longer have the vibration, and I happen to know my belt is set at the "new" lower standard.

Again... for what it is worth.

I'm still new to the spyder (getting my 3K service this week), but this post describes how I drive and I too rarely experience vibration.

[Dizneyman]

For what it is worth -- which is about two-cents... but it worked for me.

I had the same problem. Vibrations at one point were all over the spectrum.

I changed my shifting to higher RPM's, and cruise in all gears at higher RPM's.

Mysteriously... all vibrations disappeared... except for one spot, and that is in the 5,100 range when in 5th gear.

So, I run my RT in 4th if I am going to stay at the range. There isn't a vibration and the motor runs smooth and can do that all-day.

I only use 5th at 65 MPH and up on level terrain (only as an "over-drive" gear). If I have to accelerate, I'll downshift and do so, then shift back to 5th -- unless I am above 5,100 and don't need to do a hard acceleration. (to keep 5th above 5,100 after shifting you have to watch the RPM's and shift around that point). If it ever vibrates, it is only for a second or two when passing-through 5,100.

No longer have the vibration, and I happen to know my belt is set at the "new" lower standard.

Again... for what it is worth.

[currin20fan]

- And Ron, I like fig newtons.

[phj]

here is a thread from me and BRP:

Everyone knows that the belt is too loose for being as long as it is. The vibration conversation is all over the "Spyderlovers" forum. BRP lowered the spec because you were having bearing and sprocket problems.

At the higher original spec, there was no vibration.


I Have 2 words: one starts with a B and the other starts with an S.


You should do what is right and increase the spec back to 700 Newtons +/- 150 and let us enjoy our rides while you concentrate on your bearing problems.


Bob Lintz aka "Ride Master"
Laguna Niguel, CA
.................................................. .................................................. ........................
On Jul 23, 2012, at 1:32 PM, Spyder, TechSupport wrote:

Greetings Mr. Lintz,

All our Spyder vehicles have a vibration around 5400 RPM which is a normal characteristic of the vehicle. If your dealership does not feel that this vibration that you are experiencing with your vehicle is the normal vibration, they should contact our technical assistance line for dealerships to work on diagnosing and resolving the issue. Being a normal characteristic of the vehicle, this harmonic vibration has no need to be fixed.


Have a great day!

.................................................. .................................................. ........................

2012/7/6 Bob Lintz wrote:

I've had my 2012 RT Limited in 5 times for the vibration.
1st 3 times I was told it was ok. Well it's not ok. I know they reported it to you.
I see complaints from other Spyder RT owners about the same thing
I had my dealer install the SmoothSpyder belt tensioner.
They set the drive belt at minimum tension and the tensioner at 10 pounds...all this did was change the rpm at which the vibration starts from 5200 to 5500 rpm
Then, my dealer adjusted the drive belt to 600, the maximum, and the tensioner to 12 pounds. All this did was change the rpm at which the vibration starts from 5500 to 6000
My dealer refuses to tighten the drive belt further but, we all know that's what is needed. The folks at SmoothSpyder suggest the drive belt be set to 700-800 Newtons but know you are currently not allowing it.
The vibration is serious and is going to damage the RT. I want it fixed and fixed now. Either that or I am going to retain a "Lemon Law" specialist. The drive belt is just too long to be at 450 +/- 150 Newtons

Thank you for your efforts to get this addressed, I too have been in contact with BRP and all I'm being told is that they are working on the problem!!

The only difference between what your are experiencing and what I have witnessed is my vibration starts at 4500 +/- 100 rpms and IT DOES NOT MATTER WHAT GEAR I AM IN. It continues till about 6500 rpms, at night you almost can not ride, the headlight are vibrating to the point they look like police strobe lights. If I accelerate with it vibrating to higher rpm and then slow a few hundred rpms, it will go away for a few minutes but then returns.

I have had the Smooth Idler installed as well as all three tires rebalanced, the Smooth Idler helped at lot at speeds up to about 58/60mph. I too am thinking about going to 700/750 newtons on my belt. I have also been told that bike when they come from the factory come with a tighter belt which BRP feels will stretch to a lower number within the first 600 miles.

[Firefly]

For what it is worth -- which is about two-cents... but it worked for me.

I had the same problem. Vibrations at one point were all over the spectrum.

I changed my shifting to higher RPM's, and cruise in all gears at higher RPM's.

Mysteriously... all vibrations disappeared... except for one spot, and that is in the 5,100 range when in 5th gear.

So, I run my RT in 4th if I am going to stay at the range. There isn't a vibration and the motor runs smooth and can do that all-day.

I only use 5th at 65 MPH and up on level terrain (only as an "over-drive" gear). If I have to accelerate, I'll downshift and do so, then shift back to 5th -- unless I am above 5,100 and don't need to do a hard acceleration. (to keep 5th above 5,100 after shifting you have to watch the RPM's and shift around that point). If it ever vibrates, it is only for a second or two when passing-through 5,100.

No longer have the vibration, and I happen to know my belt is set at the "new" lower standard.

Again... for what it is worth.

I agree 10000000% !!!

People complaining about extreme vibrations must be basically lugging their engine. Even with the lower belt spec the vibrations are so minimal. I did put the belt tensioner on my GS and liked it... but it really wasn't like the vibrations were all that bad to begin with.

On my RT things are so smooth I see no need for the belt tensioner... at least for me.

I don't even THINK of 5th gear until 65 or 70 mph.

[FutureRyder]

This may seem a dumb question (keep in mind I'm Spyder-less for another week or so), but would it be possible to remove the belt, then start the Spyder up and rev the engine to the target RPMS?

If you get the same vibrations without the belt on, then it's not the belt, correct?

Process of elimination.

[flaggerphil]

I haven't experienced this kind of vibration at all.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

PHJ, I think you have something more than belt vibration issues.....maybe loose front or rear sprocket ???.......and I may be plagued with the computers from " HELL" but I really can't feel any vibrations...maybe I was cut a break on that one .....Mike

[Guzzi]

PHJ, I think you have something more than belt vibration issues.....maybe loose front or rear sprocket ???.......and I may be plagued with the computers from " HELL" but I really can't feel any vibrations...maybe I was cut a break on that one .....Mike

My 2012 RT/SE5 has been plagued with the 5000-6000 RPM harmonic hard vibration since new (6-07-2012). Been to 3 dealers, belt adjustments each time. Now with 4000 miles and still get the same thing. No way am I lugging my engine, as I shift normally in the 5000 rpm range, and do a lot of highway riding and trips. As long as I stay at 70 or below, it's not much of an issue, but step it up to 75 or so, and it's a real PITA. Only cycle I know of with belt or vibration issues such as this. An obvious engineering problem that Can-AM must address, or in the long haul it will hurt their overall sales, and for me, having already spent my money, a big disappointment. Really like the Spyder overall, but you should get better for the money spent, without this kind of a continuing issue from many owners.

[Firefly]

My 2012 RT/SE5 has been plagued with the 5000-6000 RPM harmonic hard vibration since new (6-07-2012). Been to 3 dealers, belt adjustments each time. Now with 4000 miles and still get the same thing. No way am I lugging my engine, as I shift normally in the 5000 rpm range, and do a lot of highway riding and trips. As long as I stay at 70 or below, it's not much of an issue, but step it up to 75 or so, and it's a real PITA. Only cycle I know of with belt or vibration issues such as this. An obvious engineering problem that Can-AM must address, or in the long haul it will hurt their overall sales, and for me, having already spent my money, a big disappointment. Really like the Spyder overall, but you should get better for the money spent, without this kind of a continuing issue from many owners.

Perhaps you should try cap'n Jim's belt tensioner.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Recluze]

I have had two RS/GS. One with a tight belt and no vibration. One with a loose belt and vibration. Capt Jim's belt tensioner fixed the vibration in my present bike. I don't doubt that there are varying levels of this vibration in different bikes but in my experience it has always been there: Hardly noticeable when the belt was tight and hard to live with when the belt was loosened.

While you can wait for BRP to fix this you may be waiting a while. In the mean time your license plate frame will destroy itself, probably a fender bracket will break and the tail light will fall apart. I don't know how many loose relays can be attributed to this or how many other electrical problems can be caused by a bike shaking itself. They have never fixed the rear view mirrors that give you a clear view of your hands and nothing else. This is a much more serious issue in my mine and could easily be fixed by BRP. I fixed mine wwith one of the site sponsers mirror extensions. There are any number of other things that could be fixed easily but BRP is in the business of selling at the highest price with the least cost of goods sold. They are not in the business of making everyone happy.

[NancysToy]

I have to say that I am confused and perplexed by threads such as these. I have been riding for over 50 years, and if there is one thing I have learned, it is that motorcycles vibrate. Parts break and fall off. Fasteners have to be installed with Loctite and inspected frequently. It is inherent in the breed. Handlebars filled with lead shot, and bobweights on the end of the bars are common workarounds. The V-twins and vertical twins do have a harmonic vibration range, where the vibration is the worst. If the engine has a counterbalance system, it can be less, but they still vibrate. Parts have been breaking and falling off Triumphs and Harleys (and even Hondas) for many years. It is not all road-induced, a significant part comes from the machine

Yes, there are differences between individual machines, and if your vibration is worse than the average demo machine it should probably be addressed. It is my personal belief that much more of the difference is in the perception of the owners. An experienced old Fudd like me doesn't even notice them, even if the handlebars or tires shake. An novice owner used to driving his Cadillac may find even the slightest movement objectionable. In the end, however, you will never get rid of 100% of the vibration, so you might have to adjust or move on if it cannot be addressed.

[Lamonster]

I have no issues with what I would call excessive vibration. All v-twins vibrate, some more than others. Next time you pull up next to a Harley at a stop light take a look at what vibration really looks like. Some are worst than others but for the most part I find the Spyder to be a pretty smooth ride. My 109 has a spot about 4K that feels like it's tearing something up and that's on a shaft drive bike.

[Bob Denman]

with both of the previous posts...

If you want glass-smooth... maybe a twin shouldn't be the choice.

[retired1]

Being an "old fudd" and having ridden several different brands and models, over the years, I concur
with Scotty and Lamonts statements!