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  1. #1
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    Default apparently, it's the Spyder.....

    earlier this week, I had posted that I thought I had used up too much of the battery, causing the Spyder to not start....well, after four days on the charger, it wont start!! the first time I turned it on, I thought it was going to start, but instead, everything turned off........now it's all off....however, the battery is fully charged!!!! unless someone here can come up with a logical slution, it's going to the dealer next week!! I checked everything.......it's dead!! turn the key and nothing comes on dead!!!!

  2. #2
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Just curious--did you check the kill switch? Been there, done that.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Star Cruiser's Avatar
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    Make sure that it is not in gear. If it is you need to depress the brake peddle to start and it will go into neutral. Scratched my head a few times with that and the kill switch before.

  4. #4
    Registered Users yamahog's Avatar
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    same here on the being in gear, my service tech still likes to rib me about my frantic phone call, hope it is that simple for you.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphysis View Post
    earlier this week, I had posted that I thought I had used up too much of the battery, causing the Spyder to not start....well, after four days on the charger, it wont start!! the first time I turned it on, I thought it was going to start, but instead, everything turned off........now it's all off....however, the battery is fully charged!!!! unless someone here can come up with a logical slution, it's going to the dealer next week!! I checked everything.......it's dead!! turn the key and nothing comes on dead!!!!

    Maybe check the battery cables for tightness? Any clicking or life on the cluster?

    Josh

  6. #6
    Very Active Member samewok's Avatar
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    I have forgot about the kill switch before because someone move the switch an i did not know it.
    4" Stubby antenna, Dual arm LEDs Fender LEDs, Back Rest, Luggage Rack, Run, Brake and Strobe for top case, Mirror LEDs,Back Off decal on mud flap, reciptal for Battery Tender and Heated Gear, mirror LEDs that stay on or work with blinkers, GPS, side bag red LEDs, Top cuff with Ram Ball phone holder And USB power, Top cuff with drink holder and passenger cup holder. Also grilles in front of radiators, also spyclops. Garmin 595 GPS, Freedom windshield. Also glove box console And trunk wrap in carbon fiber from wrap my spyder. BRP comfort seat. added garage opener with rocker switch in center console to match other switches. And I have added Elka stage 2 shocks.
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  7. #7
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Bad frame ground, faulty kill switch, bad relay, blown fuse, bad security module or key, bad clutch switch for SM or bad GPS for SE...the list goes on. You need a tech to systematically troubleshoot and find the fault. BUDS can help for some of it. This can't be done over the Internet...at least not without more information.
    Last edited by NancysToy; 07-13-2012 at 09:45 PM.
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  8. #8
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    loose relays
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    2011 RT A&C-SM5 - Orbital Blue (mine)
    Xenon Lights, Polk speakers (4), 5-LED lamps, fog lights, Sypderpops grills, OGB grips, TIPS and CHANNELZ lights. Seal FLRBDS, Two Brothers Muffler, ZUMO 665 w XM, Gloryders, HMT Brake.
    2012 RT-LTD SE5 -Lava (hers)
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  9. #9
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    it's not the kill switch.....
    the SE5 trans should start in any gear....it will go to neutral once it has started...
    the lead for the battery tender is giving me 13.5 volts, so I am guessing the battery leads should be ok.......
    it seems to me to be a sensor or relay......
    when I started it today, it turned on and got to the point where I had to push the mode button...then when I pushed the start button it died...everything turned off as though I had turned off the key...and I even waited and it continued to be off.....

    I guess we will have to see what the dealer says....
    Last edited by epiphysis; 07-14-2012 at 01:47 AM.

  10. #10
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    Good Luck, and please let us know what is found...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
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    That is sounding a lot like there is not enough juice - that is the same symptoms I always get when I have drained the battery by playing the radio for hours on end when I am working on the unit (I know, not good for the battery) - however I will admit there is a lot of other things that could still be in play here that are not the battery. Try putting a jump battery on and see if the extra juice helps (that will at least prove out that it is not an issue on enough battery power). Chargers alone won't necessarily do it - you need a jump unit or battery to do this. Make sure you have good contact on the pos and neg connectors (and like others said check the tightness on the battery leads as they can come loose.
    MODS 2013 - Ultimate, Remote / LED Halos, Pete's Dash kits , Elka's!
    2011 RT A&C-SM5 - Orbital Blue (mine)
    Xenon Lights, Polk speakers (4), 5-LED lamps, fog lights, Sypderpops grills, OGB grips, TIPS and CHANNELZ lights. Seal FLRBDS, Two Brothers Muffler, ZUMO 665 w XM, Gloryders, HMT Brake.
    2012 RT-LTD SE5 -Lava (hers)
    MODS: Spyderpops chrome grills, TIPS and CHANNELZ lights, HMT Brake, Seal FLRBDS, Gloryders, OGB Grips

  12. #12
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    im with maney of the others loose battery wires,you said you dont think its that .but you need to check put a wrence on the cable and give it a turn ,ive found mine loose many times.try that befor you take it to the dealer.and i mean the ones on the battery not that jumper under the seat.i know its not that essey to get to the battery but you need to check it.

  13. #13
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    first of all, thanks for the suggestions....you all encouraged me to do what I needed to do........I checked the battery connections.....they were tight!!!! then I looked at the main fuse...the one that is on the hot line coming out of battery......it's a 60 A fuse...I literally took it out and put it back in......it was fine........then......the friggin bike started!!!! WTF!!!! I called the service guy at the dealership and he was somewhat comfused, too, but did suggest that I bring it down to them next week, which I will do........then I went for a short ride and it was fine...then I turned it off and on and off and on..........a few times and it worked every time!!!!!!! I am thinking about bringing that fuse out to allow me to get at it......we'll see!!!!

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Dudley's Avatar
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    It just MAY have been the fuse not sitting well and all it needed was what you did. I would not run to the dealer so fast, but that's just me. If it happens again, remove the fuse again and repeat what you did the first time.
    2008 GS SE5 in 2008
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudley View Post
    It just MAY have been the fuse not sitting well and all it needed was what you did. I would not run to the dealer so fast, but that's just me. If it happens again, remove the fuse again and repeat what you did the first time.
    I'm just going to the dealer so they can hook it up to the computer and make sure everything else is ok.....I did not ever get a malfunction code for anything!!!! and I'm thinking of rigging the fuse so I can get to it without taking everything off!!!! I did put some dielectric grease on the fuse......

  16. #16
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    Default Keep the meter on the battery

    Keep the meter on the battery and try to crank her. If the voltage stays up it's not the battery but if it drops waaaaay down, it's time for a new one.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidetrack View Post
    Keep the meter on the battery and try to crank her. If the voltage stays up it's not the battery but if it drops waaaaay down, it's time for a new one.
    It happen to me last week, it drop to 4 volts. Guess what , I am the proud owner of a new battery

  18. #18
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    the wife and I went for a nice ride today.....made two stops.....no problems....no fault codes!!!!

  19. #19
    Registered Users Campverdefela's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by epiphysis View Post
    the wife and I went for a nice ride today.....made two stops.....no problems....no fault codes!!!!
    Since your in Ohio, do you sometimes ride in the winter, if so it could have been some corrosion on the contract points of the fuse and working it in and out cleaned it.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Campverdefela View Post
    Since your in Ohio, do you sometimes ride in the winter, if so it could have been some corrosion on the contract points of the fuse and working it in and out cleaned it.
    I just got the bike a few months ago.......it's kept in the part of the garage that gets heat and air conditioning.....darn spoiled bike!!!! but who knows where it was before I got it!!!!


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