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  1. #1
    Registered Users spyder-dude's Avatar
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    Default Problem with 2011 Spyder RSS running like crap when getting hot

    I have had a problem with my spyder that I noticed when in Daytona Bike Week in March. Seems to be when it is hot outside and going in slower traffic. Seems to break up and run rough at about 3800-4500 rpm. Almost like it is losing spark or gas issues. I only have 8000 miles on it.

    When I was in Daytona I spoke to one of the head BRP techs and he said it defiantly sounded like spark plug wires. Well today I finally changed them and it didn't fix the problem. Road about 6 miles in 35-40mph traffic and it started right away.

    Curious if anyone else has had this type of problem??????

    Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Shawn
    ** Loving my 5th Can-Am Spyder since 2007! **



  2. #2
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Did you change the plugs, too?
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Did you change the plugs, too?
    Did he put the BRP standed ones in sounds like if he did then the carbon in side has brok wich would do the same as the old ones

  4. #4
    arntufun
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    Shawn, mine does the same thing. Plugs, wires and exhaust gaskets didn't help me. I'm guessing the aftermarket pipes have something to do with it. The 02 mod I have helped some, but it seems I need more fuel as well. Maybe a fuel controler would help with this, but after reading that thread where BRP won't warranty a locked up Spyder (because the guy has a juice box), I'm reluctant to try it.

    The Spyder purrs when it's cooler out and runs like when the weather is hot. I have read several posts where people are experiencing the same issue.
    Last edited by arntufun; 07-02-2012 at 04:47 AM.

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    I've had that problem and have helped other with that problem. In our case it was one of the two mail relays getting hot and not making a good connection. Try swapping relays with your fan and see if that helps.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member wyliec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    I've had that problem and have helped other with that problem. In our case it was one of the two mail relays getting hot and not making a good connection. Try swapping relays with your fan and see if that helps.
    Are you talking the contacts inside the relay that close when the coil is energized? Or, are you talking the external (relay) blade connections that plug into the female connections inside the relay/fuse box? Just curious.

  7. #7
    arntufun
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    Are you talking the contacts inside the relay that close when the coil is energized? Or, are you talking the external (relay) blade connections that plug into the female connections inside the relay/fuse box? Just curious.

    Good Question !!!!!

  8. #8
    Registered Users OneBadPenny's Avatar
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    Default Rough idle

    What I am reading here is that If my bike is running rough it could be the exhaust gaskets also? I have the latest, hottest plugs BRP makes and noticed that after my dealer put them in my bike started running rough. In reverse, it dies sometimes. Since coming back from Durango I have noticed an exhaust leak around the y pipe. My bike ran rough before Durango so I am wondering if it could be a broken isolator in the plug wire? I did havea boil over issue in southern Utah when pulling into the hotel it started peeing green anti freeze all over their parking lot. Worried about the bike and not their lot since we got screwed at the hotel.

  9. #9
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wyliec View Post
    Are you talking the contacts inside the relay that close when the coil is energized? Or, are you talking the external (relay) blade connections that plug into the female connections inside the relay/fuse box? Just curious.
    I've played with both. The relays on the RS were known for coming loose so I would put a slight twist on the legs to make it less likely to come loose.

    The real problem was the relays getting hot and not making good contact. The next time your bike runs like that when it's hot take the cover off of the fuse block and put your hand on top of the relay and see how hot it is. If you can't hold your hand on it changes are the relay is working overtime and going bad.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member napper39's Avatar
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    rember if the relays vibrate loose this will hapen,also just put new relays in ,change them all.i found some on ebay and bought 12 and carry them with me,so i can change them if i need too.as far as the open muffler i just put the 02 mod and it runs grate.it was a little too loud so i put a socket in the end of the pipe ,it not only helped quite ti dowen but also gave me a lot moore tq.picture shows the socket in the pipe.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Very Active Member cyclelover63's Avatar
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    I am going to try the relay fix that Lamont recommended...My 2009 Gs does the same thing,but runs a lot better with a little fuel injector cleaner and 89 octane...When I had my air filter off,I opened the throttle blade and could see carbon on my valves...I cleaned it off and am trying to keep the RPM's over 4,000 all of the time now,too..

  12. #12
    Active Member Wright2743's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclelover63 View Post
    I am going to try the relay fix that Lamont recommended...My 2009 Gs does the same thing,but runs a lot better with a little fuel injector cleaner and 89 octane...When I had my air filter off,I opened the throttle blade and could see carbon on my valves...I cleaned it off and am trying to keep the RPM's over 4,000 all of the time now,too..

    Aftermarket relay #'s ??? Thx.

  13. #13
    Very Active Member bruiser's Avatar
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    If I'm not mistaken all 12 volt relays are the same so aftermarket vs BRP makes no difference. That's why you can swap relays to see if they are the problem. You can take one out of your car/truck and put it in the Spyder. DISCLAIMER: I haven't been into the Spyder relays, haven't had need to.



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  14. #14
    Registered Users spyder-dude's Avatar
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    Yes I did change the plugs as well. I am going to see if the dealer can try a new coil on my spyder. Was talking to my brother who has been a mechanic and has worked on cars and bikes for many years and recommended to try that. I can usually get it to happen within 10-15 miles riding in warmer weather. Concerned about riding anyplace long as I am afraid to get stranded someplace.

    I will post back on how that works.

    Later,

    Shawn
    ** Loving my 5th Can-Am Spyder since 2007! **



  15. #15
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Default running bad when hot

    spyderdude, have you checked your exhaust gaskets? they could be shot or one of the clamps could be loose. i changed mine yesterday. i found that the clamp on the right side was loose, allowing for a leak. my bike had been running bad the last couple of weeks. i chalked it up to bad gas at first, but it got worse. the right side gasket was a little thin but still intact, but the ''y'' pipe i could move easily by hand. bike is running perfect again.
    it was fun while it lasted.

  16. #16
    Registered Users spyder-dude's Avatar
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    Coz,

    I know I do have some what of a leak there and do have the honda gaskets but just haven't had the time to put them on.....I will try that before taking it back to the dealer. Thanks for the tip!
    ** Loving my 5th Can-Am Spyder since 2007! **



  17. #17
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    Default Purge valve?

    We have a 2011 Limited RT and what you are describing seems to be the same thing we are experiencing. Only seems to happen when things are warm. Bike runs rough, even cutting out when sitting at stop lights. Also has a rough time starting when it sits for a short period of time (i.e. when stopping for food when out on a run). We have it now 3 times into the stealership. First time they made some "adjustments" and said they got it running better. 2nd time they said it was something with the plugs and wires so replaced those (with no success). Now they are blaming it on the Purge Valve. The part is on order and we should have the bike back this weekend, hopefully.

    Ive seen other posts on here describing this hot running and hot start issue and many have pointed to the throttle body. When I mentioned this to the mechanic he said all ECm updates were done so it should not be that.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member coz's Avatar
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    Default exhaust leak

    Quote Originally Posted by spyder-dude View Post
    Coz,

    I know I do have some what of a leak there and do have the honda gaskets but just haven't had the time to put them on.....I will try that before taking it back to the dealer. Thanks for the tip!
    if you are still on your original exhaust gaskets at eight thousand they have to be fried, the right side for sure. i know it's a p i a dealing with the panels. that makes it easy to put off what needs to be done. been there. especially when it's 100 outside. wackydan and arntufun 's write-ups make the job surprise-less. i wish now that i did it a month ago.
    it was fun while it lasted.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    I've played with both. The relays on the RS were known for coming loose so I would put a slight twist on the legs to make it less likely to come loose.

    The real problem was the relays getting hot and not making good contact. The next time your bike runs like that when it's hot take the cover off of the fuse block and put your hand on top of the relay and see how hot it is. If you can't hold your hand on it changes are the relay is working overtime and going bad.
    Hi Mate", where is the fuse box relay your are talking about. Is it in front trunk or under the seat

    Regards Peter

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