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  1. #101
    Registered Users TasmanianDevil's Avatar
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    Default Arrived in TX and was greeted by a friend looking to buy that day

    After spending the past two weeks and 3500 miles on my Tas, I am more in love with her than ever. I had no problems with her. Well, I just found out there is a better way to fuel her with a different seat mod...and I couldn't make a nature call along the way without people pulling off the road to look her (and me dashing out from behind a tree) over.

    I hadn't arrived at the RV resort an hour when a neighbor rushed over to tell me she had just returned from a dealer in Pharr, TX. I kept telling her to just this thread out and she hopped on and we visited all the happy campers.

    I never did find out if or what the crosswind component is on her. I was severally buffeted from the right all the way through Utah, then from behind through NM and TX. That low in from California kept me alert.

    Thanks again for this advise.

  2. #102
    Active Member piedmontrider's Avatar
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    Default Thank the Lord for this thread!

    I've had my RT-Limited for three weeks now, and received a fairly extensive intro by my salesman. At least I felt fairly confident setting off on a 300 mile trip home. I had a Honda 350 in college ( a long time ago) and thankfully had forgotten how to ride a two-wheeler. I have noticed what I think is "lugging the engine at low RPM" when running around town. I will now change how I ride around town. I will also try the not rolling off the throttle when shifting. Thank you Illinois Boy!!
    2012 RT Limited Lava Bronze- Spending my children's inheritance on my Spyder and farkles-so they don't have to learn how to. It's a dirty job--but someone's got to do it!


  3. #103
    Active Member Farmbanker's Avatar
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    Default

    Just a post to move this valuable thread up.
    Name: Eric Heims
    Red 2016 RTS, Diamond R Armrests, Ram X Mount, Doc Humphreys Dampener, BajaRon Swaybar, Spyderpops "Critter Splitter"


    "It is the common fate of the indolent to see their rights become a prey to the active. The condition upon which God hath given liberty to man is eternal vigilance; which condition if he break, servitude is at once the consequence of his crime and the punishment of his guilt." John Philpot Curran 1790



  4. #104
    Active Member Farmbanker's Avatar
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    Default I guess the dealer likes it!

    I decided today to copy and send the do's and don'ts to my dealer via email. I was taking Frankensmurf in for its 600 mile service and thought I would share this. When I sent it I pointed out that much of this is information I really should have known during the buying process in addition to reading the manual three times. They sent back a sincere thank you and said they would share with all new Spyder riders. However, I was very surprised to find a laminated version hanging on the floor unit of the dealership when I arrived. Nice to see an open mind and such responsiveness in a dealer. Thanks to all on this forum who contributed.
    Name: Eric Heims
    Red 2016 RTS, Diamond R Armrests, Ram X Mount, Doc Humphreys Dampener, BajaRon Swaybar, Spyderpops "Critter Splitter"


    "It is the common fate of the indolent to see their rights become a prey to the active. The condition upon which God hath given liberty to man is eternal vigilance; which condition if he break, servitude is at once the consequence of his crime and the punishment of his guilt." John Philpot Curran 1790



  5. #105
    Registered Users TasmanianDevil's Avatar
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    Tony and Sher, I found the famous thread for you. Enjoy. Sarah

  6. #106
    Registered Users lookerjdc's Avatar
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  7. #107
    Registered Users Spyder-Bob's Avatar
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    Thanks .... Good stuff

    This has answered a lot of questions I am a newbie.

  8. #108
    Registered Users Ray&Charlotte's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Read it many times...good stuff

    Thank you IllinoisBoy - great stuff...Read this before, and after purchase and am conscious of it when riding!! Even pointing this out to my wife while she rides.
    Thanks so much Ray ((we love Southwestern Illinois btw, lived in Mascoutah!! - would go back in a heartbeat))

  9. #109
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    Glad this is helping some of you...

    I added a couple items to the end of the list that I have noticed a few have had trouble with. Hopefully these two additions will help.

    Everyone ride safe and alert at all times!

    SL #7026
    VBA #652
    HOG #3935417
    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  10. #110
    Very Active Member kinggeek's Avatar
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    Default Excelent thread.

    A must read for all new and many seasoned Spyder riders.
    Kinggeek
    Mandeville,LA

    VERY HAPPY Spyder Ryder!

    Where have we been on the Spyder? See below:



    Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 in Congac

  11. #111
    Registered Users SllimG's Avatar
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    Default at the risk of getting flogged....

    I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

    I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

    Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?

  12. #112
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SllimG View Post
    I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

    I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

    Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?
    BRP makes no recommendations, except to maintain sufficient rpm to avoid clutch damage on the SE. That point is something above the 3,000-3,400 rpm where the centrifugal clutch becomes fully engaged. If you are happy running at 4900 rpm vs 5600, knock yourself out. Many of us prefer more, for the throttle response, torque, and smoothness, but it is an individual choice.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) & 2008 Spyder GS-SM5-PE (Nancy's)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 22 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by SllimG View Post
    I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

    I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

    Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?
    Let the flogging begin! Ha! Just joking... no flogging is going to happen.

    If you read the list you will see that it mostly applies to the RT. It is understood the RS has different characteristics.

    If there were any one particular suggestion I would adhere to would be to keep your RPM's at 4,300 or higher in any given gear you are in (give or take). Since you are running at 4,900 and not lugging it... you are probably doing just fine -- although you are not realizing your machines best performance.

    Too many think that since higher RPM's are suggested that you have to ride the Spyder like a maniac. That just isn't so...

    As mentioned... the clutch engages in the low 2,000 range, however is not fully locked-in until the low to mid 3,000's. Riding it below the range of it being locked-in can cause slippage (even if you do not notice it); which will eventually wear-out your clutch. (Read the manual for the RPM the clutch "stalls". That is the RPM where it is locked.)

    Regarding using higher RPM's in general, for those that do try to follow the suggestions will find their machine will operate closer to peak performance with regard to power. (As you mentioned, the power-band's strength is at higher RPM's.)

    If anyone doesn't want to run their machine at the higher RPM's, that is their business. For the many riders that do and have become accustomed to it are finding their machines run better and have more power at the throttle at any given time -- which equals better overall performance and enjoyment. There are simply too many that ride their machines at higher RPM's that can testify to the performance improvement.

    Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's... I would not necessarily agree with it causing more wear. Obviously, that subject is going to be highly debated. However, in my humble opinion; if you keep your machine properly maintained; running the engine closer to its peak power-band should not be a problem -- especially compared to someone that consistently runs their machine in higher gears at lower RPM's.
    Last edited by Illinois Boy; 10-29-2012 at 11:52 AM.

    SL #7026
    VBA #652
    HOG #3935417
    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  14. #114
    Registered Users SllimG's Avatar
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    Thanks for the clarification. Good to know about the clutch. I have found that I like it much better downshifting myself instead of letting the bike do it for me. It downshifts much smoother when I do it. Great forum here! I really appreciate the input.

    Quote Originally Posted by Illinois Boy View Post
    Let the flogging begin! Ha! Just joking... no flogging is going to happen.

    If you read the list you will see that it mostly applies to the RT. It is understood the RS has different characteristics. The engine is even slightly different than an RT. (Shorter stroke.)

    If there were any one particular suggestion I would adhere to would be to keep your RPM's at 4,300 or higher in any given gear you are in (give or take). Since you are running at 4,900 and not lugging it... you are probably doing just fine -- although you are not realizing your machines best performance.

    Too many think that since higher RPM's are suggested that you have to ride the Spyder like a maniac. That just isn't so...

    As mentioned... the clutch engages in the low 2,000 range, however is not fully locked-in until the low to mid 3,000's. Riding it below the range of it being locked-in can cause slippage (even if you do not notice it); which will eventually wear-out your clutch. (Read the manual for the RPM the clutch "stalls". That is the RPM where it is locked.)

    Regarding using higher RPM's in general, for those that do try to follow the suggestions will find their machine will operate closer to peak performance with regard to power. (As you mentioned, the power-band's strength is at higher RPM's.)

    If anyone doesn't want to run their machine at the higher RPM's, that is their business. For the many riders that do and have become accustomed to it are finding their machines run better and have more power at the throttle at any given time -- which equals better overall performance and enjoyment. There are simply too many that ride their machines at higher RPM's that can testify to the performance improvement.

    Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's... I would not necessarily agree with it causing more wear. Obviously, that subject is going to be highly debated. However, in my humble opinion; if you keep your machine properly maintained; running the engine closer to its peak power-band should not be a problem -- especially compared to someone that consistently runs their machine in higher gears at lower RPM's.

  15. #115
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Default Minor correction.

    Quote Originally Posted by Illinois Boy View Post
    Let the flogging begin! Ha! Just joking... no flogging is going to happen.

    If you read the list you will see that it mostly applies to the RT. It is understood the RS has different characteristics. The engine is even slightly different than an RT. (Shorter stroke.)
    Let me take a turn at some flogging. Sorry I could not resist. Minor correction in your otherwise good advise.

    The bore and stroke in the RS and RT engines are identical. All cranks the same part number, so same stroke. All cylinders the same part number, so same bore.

    RS engine specs 2.JPGRT engine secs 2.JPG

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Let me take a turn at some flogging. Sorry I could not resist. Minor correction in your otherwise good advise.

    The bore and stroke in the RS and RT engines are identical. All cranks the same part number, so same stroke. All cylinders the same part number, so same bore.

    RS engine specs 2.JPGRT engine secs 2.JPG
    Consider myself flogged! Thanks for the clarification! I will edit that out...

    SL #7026
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    HOG #3935417
    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  17. #117
    Registered Users donec's Avatar
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    Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's you have to consider the wear that running an engine at too low RPMs causes also. IMO the best you can do is keep the Spyder well maintained and listen to and feel the engine. Shifting when everything is sounding and feeling the smoothest that will get you the best performance and life out of your Spyder (or any vehicle).
    2013 Pure Magnesium Spyder RS-SM5 Cal Sci medium clear windshield, R-35 hard sided saddlebags and fitments rack, 2013 Can-Am Spyder ST Limited Embroidered Stock Seat, Trunk opening spring, fire extinguisher, Passenger backrest and rack, Added side mirrors, Handlebar bag.

  18. #118
    Registered Users SllimG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donec View Post
    Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's you have to consider the wear that running an engine at too low RPMs causes also. IMO the best you can do is keep the Spyder well maintained and listen to and feel the engine. Shifting when everything is sounding and feeling the smoothest that will get you the best performance and life out of your Spyder (or any vehicle).

    Nicely put!

  19. #119
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    Thumbs up Do's and Don'ts

    BUMP, Have newbees that should see this

  20. #120
    Active Member mdale46's Avatar
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    Default Great Info

    New Spyder rider/owner here. The info here is great. Thanks to everyone who has posted. I have listened and learner!

  21. #121
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    Default Where in the manual?

    "DO NOT roll-off the throttle when shifting with the SE5 system (read the manual)! Too many ask and debate this subject; which clearly shows they have NOT read the manual if they suggest rolling-off the throttle. Shame on you! Read the manual -- which is step one!"

    Not to be contrary, but I'd really like to know *why* I shouldn't do a modest roll-off to completely "hide" the admittedly modest shift bump.
    I watched the DVD and spent quite a bit of time pouring over the manual for our (very) new 2012 RT Limited - I couldn't find where it addresses the subject one way or the other. I could have missed it of course... It was after 2AM...

    Inquiring minds want to know! ;-)
    (and I did do a few forum searches, but didn't really find much except "don't do it & RTFM")

    Thanks,
    --jim
    (Spyder RT Limited newbie, 35 years on various 2-wheelers, snow cats and other miscellaneous mechanical monstrosities)

  22. #122
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    Remember... these are suggestions to help you enjoy your Spyder more. While it is not in bold-face font, or even a headline... it is in the manual under the section for shifting with the SE5.

    Page 76 of the RTS-SE5 Manual states: 7b) Upshifting from First into Second Gear: – Press the gear selector forward to
    shift into second gear. You do not have to release the throttle while shifting with the SE5.

    When I first got my Spyder, I would argue that rolling-back the throttle when shifting made for a smoother shift. (I have ridden motorcycles for years also... and still do -- which was my influence to roll-off.) No longer do I feel this way with the Spyder.

    What I, personally, found (others may have a different opinion) is once I started shifting at higher RPM's it would shift very smoothly without rolling-off the throttle. In fact, smoother. I do not get any type of "bump" at all hardly ever -- but rather an almost inaudible "click".

    Increased RPM's were discovered by me when I pulled my loaded trailer with the Spyder. Once in "trailer-mode", the Spyder wouldn't let me shift until I was at much higher RPM's than I had been shifting at previously. That trip was somewhere around 700+ miles -- plenty of time to get used to the higher RPM shifts.

    What I noticed was more power at the throttle in any given gear; smoother engine; smoother shifts (without rolling-back the throttle); and less belt vibration. Overall fuel management did not change much, if any either.

    There are many Spyder owners that will attest to the same. Hope this helps explain this a bit more.

    Enjoy, and ride safe and alert!





    SL #7026
    VBA #652
    HOG #3935417
    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  23. #123
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    Default Got it, thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Illinois Boy View Post

    Remember... these are suggestions to help you enjoy your Spyder more. While it is not in bold-face font, or even a headline... it is in the manual under the section for shifting with the SE5.

    Page 76 of the RTS-SE5 Manual states: 7b) Upshifting from First into Second Gear: Press the gear selector forward to
    shift into second gear. You do not have to release the throttle while shifting with the SE5.

    When I first got my Spyder, I would argue that rolling-back the throttle when shifting made for a smoother shift. (I have ridden motorcycles for years also... and still do -- which was my influence to roll-off.) No longer do I feel this way with the Spyder.

    What I, personally, found (others may have a different opinion) is once I started shifting at higher RPM's it would shift very smoothly without rolling-off the throttle. In fact, smoother. I do not get any type of "bump" at all hardly ever -- but rather an almost inaudible "click".

    Increased RPM's were discovered by me when I pulled my loaded trailer with the Spyder. Once in "trailer-mode", the Spyder wouldn't let me shift until I was at much higher RPM's than I had been shifting at previously. That trip was somewhere around 700+ miles -- plenty of time to get used to the higher RPM shifts.

    What I noticed was more power at the throttle in any given gear; smoother engine; smoother shifts (without rolling-back the throttle); and less belt vibration. Overall fuel management did not change much, if any either.

    There are many Spyder owners that will attest to the same. Hope this helps explain this a bit more.

    Enjoy, and ride safe and alert!

    Ok, thanks!
    In the 2012 RT manual it's been moved to page 78 . I see what you mean, although I still get a shift "bump" at higher RPM's when it's pulling hard. Not much of a bump, and I'm certainly still a novice with all of 110 miles. :-)

    I'll have to play with it. I don't have enough hours to say much of anything with authority yet about the bike, other than there should be some kind of appropriately-worded warning about how poorly it handles with heavy loads using the stock front spring pre-load setting. I changed it from 3 (stock) to 5 (stiffest) and it went from "mushy, unstable-feeling what have I bought here" to "Ok, but remember to drive it like a snowmobile, dummy!" I'd like to ride a 2012 with upgraded shocks/springs or a 2013 to see if putting money in the suspension would be worthwhile. All things in time.

    --jim

  24. #124
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
    Ok, thanks!
    In the 2012 RT manual it's been moved to page 78 . I see what you mean, although I still get a shift "bump" at higher RPM's when it's pulling hard. Not much of a bump, and I'm certainly still a novice with all of 110 miles. :-)

    I'll have to play with it. I don't have enough hours to say much of anything with authority yet about the bike, other than there should be some kind of appropriately-worded warning about how poorly it handles with heavy loads using the stock front spring pre-load setting. I changed it from 3 (stock) to 5 (stiffest) and it went from "mushy, unstable-feeling what have I bought here" to "Ok, but remember to drive it like a snowmobile, dummy!" I'd like to ride a 2012 with upgraded shocks/springs or a 2013 to see if putting money in the suspension would be worthwhile. All things in time.

    --jim
    The manual will also tell you that higher preload settings are appropriate with heavy loads.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) & 2008 Spyder GS-SM5-PE (Nancy's)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 22 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  25. #125
    GOS member (Girls On Spyders) cohoff's Avatar
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    Default i'm a believer!

    illinois boy you are spot on about shifting at higher rpm's and not rolling off the throttle. i have followed your advice and it has made a world of difference in my ride. it is a smoother shift (barely noticeable), more power, and my spyder just feels better. thank you for all the do's and don'ts. they are invaluable.

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