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  1. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by napper39 View Post
    yiks oh yeh here i am with my 2cents,rember check your battery cable often it vibrates loose,and a loose cable can be a night mare,check your fusess and relays they vibrate loose,and thats a very bad thing.so lets say you dont chsck these things,you have trouble on the road wont run so you have it towed to a dealer they push in the relay or tighten up the battery cable.if you would have done these things you would not have had to wait for that tow truck,or had the dealer tell you i pushed in that relay and your good to go.so do these things and you might never have any trouble with your spyder ever. have fun and ride like the wind. i do.
    I'm not sure what, or where my problem lies. The 2012 Can Am Spyder RT-S I own, has a display that went dark. The bike can be turned on, but cannot be shifted into any gear. All others things, signals, head, fog, and tail lights work. The fuses are good, the one battery terminal I can get to, has a tight connection. And as the situation left me stranded, I had the insurance company's roadside service come out and cart the Spyder back to the house. I hope, that it doesn't need a new display.

  2. #352
    Active Member Ramg66's Avatar
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    Thanks Illinois boy, When I purchased my Spyder RT I was fortunate to read this during the first week I had it. I really appreciate you taking the time as it has made my experience so much more enjoyable knowing this important information.

    2016 Can Am Spyder RT-S SE6

  3. #353
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    Default Suggestion

    Thank you for this list of recommendations and for keeping it current. I have a suggestion for us non-US readers. Can you put kph equivalents beside the mph numbers? In Canada our speed limits generally go from 40 to 100kph in increments of 10. ( 40-50 for side streets; 60-70 for main roads; 80-90 for highways; 100 for freeways)
    thanks!....brian

  4. #354
    Member philbtv's Avatar
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    Default Do not hide behind the windshield?

    So I am a brand new Spyder owner. I've ridden less than 100 miles on my used 2008 GS SM5. I've done the drills and read the manual. Starting off slow as I learn this new way to ride. I've done some things right and some things wrong already. (Going to shift later and help the clutch and motor live longer!) I don't understand the "Don't try to hide behind the windshield" reminder. Can you give me some context? My used Spyder has an aftermarket tall wind screen which extends out to the grips. On a hot day I get almost no airflow through the vents on my ballistic jacket. I have the original short wind screen. Thanks for the great info. I'm going to check the fuses and battery connections when it comes back from the shop. Thanks again for the info and all of the helpful Spyderlovers out there!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-24-2019 at 10:55 PM.

  5. #355
    Active Member El Dorado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rosebelle View Post
    Peter, fellow Australian, don't you realize that our vehicles are under less stress than most of the "up and over" world. Something to do with not having to contend with gravity, I've been told before. Our issues are around requiring stickier tyres to stop us from falling off the earth, aren't they

    Thanks for your detail, I'm still asking for actual figures (% of Spyders) where normal (old fashioned?) revs have been used to cause significant failures/premature wear - I was not initially arguing the "against" the higher revving argument. But I see things creep into people's opinion that may be questionable/illogical.

    The point is made, and accepted, that driving in an optimal rev range produces the best power but economy not necessarily so, and what does fuel economy have to do with the subject anyway?
    Silly examples that don't support the argument:
    I've heard aeroplane engines need to rev. on this thread: what 2700rpm is high?
    You have written not to "lug" truck engines at 600 rpm. Who does that?
    How does trucks running at 1200 - 2400rpm equate to faster running engines? For a few examples.

    Often I hear the implied stupid argument that an engine uses the least amount of fuel at the highest torque or power revolutions. Laws of Physics suggest otherwise.

    Not trying to be too picky but "modern cars refuse to select their highest gears" is not universal at all. The ones that I have come across all do go to the top gear quickly. Yes they have learned behaviour controlling gear changes, based on load/throttle position etc, but that is to maintain adequate power, and control emissions.
    You mentioned 4WD I've had quite a few, just looking at a new Prado (top popular 4WD) to replace the wife's. It is offered with 6 speed (2 overdrives), the 4th gear no different to past 5 speed model, strongly suggesting the designers are targeting economy.
    My Mitsubishi Challenger switches to top very quickly, adding a "chip" has created more power and torque but the engine spends even more time at low revs, and with improved economy. No discernible extra wear. Reading 4WD mags , the Internet and Forums don't suggest revving engines at all, on my readings. First 4WD bought new 1983, probably driven 0ne million Kms in them. My various F100/Bronco's clearly ran most efficiently at low low revs (did probably 400,000 Km's in those (bullet proof). I can go on. You did not mention marine engines - tell me about these modern engines! ha
    .

    Tesla? isn't "don't have any other gear choices at all" because they are electric?

    Maybe I haven't learnt the hard way yet. But the last fifty years of extensive driving numerous types of engine things does not support the argument "revving is better", if I am now to argue the "against" case.

    I'm not saying that you should "lug" an engine at all. Sensible driving of course (I understand what has been said and there is some truth in it all).

    Evidence on Spyders, other than anecdotal please.
    You logic seems to use common sense, but one thing that could enter the equation. There has been no mention of how the computer controls the fuel map and timing. could be very possible that excess rich or lean situations can occur the way it is set up. Note, that I have zero idea how it is set up. I do know that running for long times either rich or lean and or retarded or advanced timing can certainly lead to issues. As the rider, We do not have the necessary sensors and gauges to assess those conditions and must assume that keeping it in the suggested power band will have the engine run at its best efficiency either for power, economy or both. I know this is my first post and I am a NOOBIE to this forum and a Spyder owner, but I have had a career in aviation as a mechanic and Aircraft inspector. Those engines have most of that work done by the pilot through RPM control and manual mixture control and to some extent engine cooling, so it is much different.

  6. #356
    Active Member OKey's Avatar
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    Default Thanks

    More helpful than you can possible know for new riders like me.

  7. #357
    Registered Users classicvw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OKey View Post
    More helpful than you can possible know for new riders like me.
    Thank You

  8. #358
    Member GrayAuthor's Avatar
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    Default Awesome Thread!!

    Newbie here😀. Thank you so much for sharing your advice!! I am almost finished reading my manual. You have educated me on areas not mentioned in my manual.


    Thxs!
    2017 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited (Black)

  9. #359
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    Default Battery Tender ?

    Would it be safe to have the battery hooked up to the tender with the storage cover on ? Unfortunately it is getting that time of year in the midwest. Thanks
    Dave

  10. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fire34 View Post
    Would it be safe to have the battery hooked up to the tender with the storage cover on ? Unfortunately it is getting that time of year in the midwest. Thanks
    Dave
    I have mine hooked-up at all times when not riding, with the top-cover on it. That is the smaller cover that only covers the top-half of the Spyder. A full cover would likely not present a problem since it is a tender instead of a charger; however, for myself, I would allow for some circulation if possible.

    SL #7026
    VBA #652
    HOG #3935417
    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

  11. #361
    Active Member bscofield84's Avatar
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    Default Great thread

    Really appreciated this thread. Had great info, and answered some of my questions. Thanks much for sharing.

  12. #362
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    Default Canít move my beloved Spyder

    Any advice on how to get my spyder into neutral when the battery is completely shot?

  13. #363
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    Default Start new thread

    Quote Originally Posted by joemcgriff View Post
    Any advice on how to get my spyder into neutral when the battery is completely shot?

    There is a way to do it manually. I thought it was in the owners manual, I searched in my manual with no luck.

    I would suggest start a new thread You will get your answer for sure

  14. #364
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    Thumbs up MUST READ FOR NEWBIES

    THIS IS A GREAT POST,I AM A NEWBIE AND WISH I CAME ACROSS THIS SOONER,I HAVE A 13 RT AND WAS RUNNING IT ACCORDING TO WHAT THE DEALER HAD TOLD ME,AFTER READING THIS I LEARNED THAT HIGHER RPMS IS THE ANSWER TO WHAT I THOUGHT WHERE MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT ANY ONE NEW TO SPYDER OWNER READ THIS POST. THANKS

  15. #365
    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chewy52 View Post
    THIS IS A GREAT POST,I AM A NEWBIE AND WISH I CAME ACROSS THIS SOONER,I HAVE A 13 RT AND WAS RUNNING IT ACCORDING TO WHAT THE DEALER HAD TOLD ME,AFTER READING THIS I LEARNED THAT HIGHER RPMS IS THE ANSWER TO WHAT I THOUGHT WHERE MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THAT ANY ONE NEW TO SPYDER OWNER READ THIS POST. THANKS
    Glad you found the thread. Unfortunately a lot of bad information starts with the dealership. Salesman & mechanics that do not know diddly squat. My favorite from here. A group of riders from the lower 48 visited in 2015. Needed work done on one Spyder. Went to the "wrong" dealer. They did not even know where the battery was located. I fixed them up with the "right" dealer. PS. the "wrong" dealer no longer sells or services Spyders.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 02-23-2018 at 08:15 PM.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 10 years, 145,375 miles


  16. #366
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    Default New Spyder

    Thanks for the list of things new Spyder owners should know. Picking my new RT Limited tomorrow. Going from Harleys to the Spyder. I hope I like the Spyder as much as I liked the Harleys.

  17. #367
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    Thanks!!

    This is a GREAT article, it helped me Immensely.

  18. #368
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    Great information here. I truly have learned a lot.

  19. #369
    Active Member Zoot's Avatar
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    EVERY FORUM should have a sticky like this one. Great job!!

  20. #370
    Active Member SgtRay's Avatar
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    I just got mine Sat and I'm glad I found this post! Thanks!
    "Friend to those who have no friends. Enemy to those who need no enemies. Headache to those who have no aspirin."~ The Phantom Texter

  21. #371
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    I think a lot of the RPM debate is age related. Older people grew up in a time where engine technology was going from points to an electronic module. Engines back then were designed to just cruise around at lower RPM's, and driving styles were laid back.
    The technology in today's engines is amazing. For performance, efficiency, and now emissions, engines are designed to run at higher RPM's. The tight tolerances, quality alloys, bearings, and advancements in oil make the "wearing them out" issue non-existent.

    When my dad went from a 1983 motorcycle to his 2006, I had to retrain him how to ride it. He was trying to ride at 2500-3500rpm. After explaining to him to keep it above 4k, he was amazed at how smooth it was, how much better it shifted, how much more power it had on tap, and how much more enjoyable it was to ride. That bike has 100k miles on it now...all stock, nothing done to it. I "grew up" riding inline 4-cylinders. They don't begin to wake up until 7k RPM. The Spyder is an inline 3. Ride it as such! Not like a big air-cooled twin...

  22. #372
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    HI Illinois boy.

    Thanks for this post and maintaining it. I've had my 2017 RTL 14 months now and still come back to this post from time to time just in case I missed something. May your rides be long and trouble free.

  23. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by philbtv View Post
    So I am a brand new Spyder owner. I've ridden less than 100 miles on my used 2008 GS SM5. I've done the drills and read the manual. Starting off slow as I learn this new way to ride. I've done some things right and some things wrong already. (Going to shift later and help the clutch and motor live longer!) I don't understand the "Don't try to hide behind the windshield" reminder. Can you give me some context? My used Spyder has an aftermarket tall wind screen which extends out to the grips. On a hot day I get almost no airflow through the vents on my ballistic jacket. I have the original short wind screen. Thanks for the great info. I'm going to check the fuses and battery connections when it comes back from the shop. Thanks again for the info and all of the helpful Spyderlovers out there!
    This comment was not to be taken literally, but rather was an attempt to have new riders realize they are not in an enclosed vehicle when riding a Spyder, and the experience is not going to be the same. They should just enjoy the experience of being in the wind. That's all it was referencing. I'll edit it.
    Ride safe and often,
    Illinois Boy

    SL #7026
    VBA #652
    HOG #3935417
    2011 Viper-Red Spyder RT SE5 & Trailer
    2017 HD Ultra Limited
    Former Rides: 2014 HD Ultra Limited; '04 Kawa Nomad; '09 HD Ultra-Classic; and many Hondas through the years.
    Spyder Newbies Do's & Do Not's: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-Spyder-owners

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