**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[jar]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

[ARtraveler]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

They are all good--but--the 2013 RT has had heat issues. A fix by BRP is currently on. The jury is still out.

[PrairieSpyder]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

What AKSpyderMan said. Otherwise, test ryde all the models to see which style you like. Have fun!!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I am presently in the hunt for a used Spyder...is there a particular year or style I should avoid?

I see this is your first post, so welcome to the forum.

May I suggest you pose your question in a new separate topic. You'll get more attention to it that way, and also you won't mix up topics of conversation within a thread. This thread is focused on things new Spyder owners need to be aware of, so let's try to keep it focused on that. Thanks.

[rcflyrj]

Thanks so much for this thread. Prospective owner here - pick up my 2014 RT-S SE6 in a couple of days.
Read entire thread last night. Confused on one issue - engine RPM. As an ex-sports car racer, and
bike rider for 45 years, I'm familiar with powerbands, both HP and torque. But.....the thread author
recommends always staying in the powerband, yet the manual recommends much lower shift points.
Also my Audi A5 is running only 1800 RPM at a true 75!

Can anyone state definitively where the clutch lockup is for the 1330? Is it advisable to always cruise
above that point, even though shift points might be lower? If cruising below lockup RPM, is the
clutch slipping all the time?

Plan to ask these of the dealer when I pick up, but not sure I'll get good answers.

BTW, my questions are for relaxed cruising, not for highest performance.

Thanks for your help, John

[Illinois Boy]

Can anyone state definitively where the clutch lockup is for the 1330? Is it advisable to always cruise
above that point, even though shift points might be lower? If cruising below lockup RPM, is the
clutch slipping all the time?

Please re-read the information. A 1330 does not have the same rpm requirements of the 998 engine. The recommended rpm's for the 1330 are listed; and are provided as a result of many experienced riders' advice.

The clutch "lock" issue is for SE clutches only, not manual clutches. This also does not apply to the 1330's; so no need to worry.

Even at relaxed riding, you'll find your machine operates better at the recommended rpm's listed.

Ride safe, often, and aware!

Illinois Boy

[rcflyrj]

Just to close the loop on this subject. Picked up my 2014 RT S SE6 from dealer today. Queried service manager on the subject. He checked with his Spyder tech who had factory training. The tech confirmed that lockup is 3000 rpm and that Can Am recommended not cruising for extended periods below that, or expect premature wear on the clutch. Not in writing anywhere, especially not in the manual.

FWIW!

John

BTW, absolutely LOVE the bike! Glad I took the plunge.

[beadaholic]

This is in the Sticky about the 990 engines but I have an 2014 1330 RT SM6 and if someone can give me a guide to follow for it that would help me alot. I am a bit confused about what RPMs to run at. I do not have anywhere else to gather info, as we don't have "dealers" here to turn to, they are just people in resale. So something like this for the 1330 manual transmission would be very helpful. I have run it in Eco mode and change gear with the green arrow.

SHIFTING-POINT SUGGESTIONS for an RTS-SE5:
1^st to 2^nd gear: Shift between 22 MPH and 29+ MPH - no sooner!
2^nd to 3^rd gear: Shift at 5100+ rpm's (39 MPH) Up-shifting to 3rd gear drops the rpm’s to 4,300 -- exactly the rpm's you want to stay above.
3^rd to 4^th gear: Shift again at 5100+ rpm's (49 MPH)
4^th to 5^th gear: Shift to 5^th only when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain. Upshift and downshifting in 5^th is expected on hilly terrain to keep the rpm’s up.

I am very guilty of riding the break and won't be doing that NO MORE!!

Plus unfortunately I have a about 500 yards of dirt road, no gravel, it has the occasional loose rock but I have my guys going over it now for that, and removing any they find. I am so worried about this and considering pouring cement over this to make it ok? Or if I just make sure there is not much rocks, it is not gravel, do you think this is ok? Especially with a 2014 RT?

Thank you, this is such wonderful material, and will save me from spending huge money on my bike! Thank YOU!!!

[Illinois Boy]

This is in the Sticky about the 990 engines but I have an 2014 1330 RT SM6 and if someone can give me a guide to follow for it that would help me alot. I am a bit confused about what RPMs to run at. I do not have anywhere else to gather info, as we don't have "dealers" here to turn to, they are just people in resale. So something like this for the 1330 manual transmission would be very helpful. I have run it in Eco mode and change gear with the green arrow.


I am very guilty of riding the break and won't be doing that NO MORE!!

Plus unfortunately I have a about 500 yards of dirt road, no gravel, it has the occasional loose rock but I have my guys going over it now for that, and removing any they find. I am so worried about this and considering pouring cement over this to make it ok? Or if I just make sure there is not much rocks, it is not gravel, do you think this is ok? Especially with a 2014 RT?

Thank you, this is such wonderful material, and will save me from spending huge money on my bike! Thank YOU!!!

Read the first post of this entire thread. It is updated constantly by me. There are certainly shifting suggestions for the 1330 engine.