**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[Illinois Boy]

Can anyone state definitively where the clutch lockup is for the 1330? Is it advisable to always cruise
above that point, even though shift points might be lower? If cruising below lockup RPM, is the
clutch slipping all the time?

Please re-read the information. A 1330 does not have the same rpm requirements of the 998 engine. The recommended rpm's for the 1330 are listed; and are provided as a result of many experienced riders' advice.

The clutch "lock" issue is for SE clutches only, not manual clutches. This also does not apply to the 1330's; so no need to worry.

Even at relaxed riding, you'll find your machine operates better at the recommended rpm's listed.

Ride safe, often, and aware!

Illinois Boy

[rcflyrj]

Just to close the loop on this subject. Picked up my 2014 RT S SE6 from dealer today. Queried service manager on the subject. He checked with his Spyder tech who had factory training. The tech confirmed that lockup is 3000 rpm and that Can Am recommended not cruising for extended periods below that, or expect premature wear on the clutch. Not in writing anywhere, especially not in the manual.

FWIW!

John

BTW, absolutely LOVE the bike! Glad I took the plunge.

[beadaholic]

This is in the Sticky about the 990 engines but I have an 2014 1330 RT SM6 and if someone can give me a guide to follow for it that would help me alot. I am a bit confused about what RPMs to run at. I do not have anywhere else to gather info, as we don't have "dealers" here to turn to, they are just people in resale. So something like this for the 1330 manual transmission would be very helpful. I have run it in Eco mode and change gear with the green arrow.

SHIFTING-POINT SUGGESTIONS for an RTS-SE5:
1^st to 2^nd gear: Shift between 22 MPH and 29+ MPH - no sooner!
2^nd to 3^rd gear: Shift at 5100+ rpm's (39 MPH) Up-shifting to 3rd gear drops the rpm’s to 4,300 -- exactly the rpm's you want to stay above.
3^rd to 4^th gear: Shift again at 5100+ rpm's (49 MPH)
4^th to 5^th gear: Shift to 5^th only when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain. Upshift and downshifting in 5^th is expected on hilly terrain to keep the rpm’s up.

I am very guilty of riding the break and won't be doing that NO MORE!!

Plus unfortunately I have a about 500 yards of dirt road, no gravel, it has the occasional loose rock but I have my guys going over it now for that, and removing any they find. I am so worried about this and considering pouring cement over this to make it ok? Or if I just make sure there is not much rocks, it is not gravel, do you think this is ok? Especially with a 2014 RT?

Thank you, this is such wonderful material, and will save me from spending huge money on my bike! Thank YOU!!!

[Illinois Boy]

This is in the Sticky about the 990 engines but I have an 2014 1330 RT SM6 and if someone can give me a guide to follow for it that would help me alot. I am a bit confused about what RPMs to run at. I do not have anywhere else to gather info, as we don't have "dealers" here to turn to, they are just people in resale. So something like this for the 1330 manual transmission would be very helpful. I have run it in Eco mode and change gear with the green arrow.


I am very guilty of riding the break and won't be doing that NO MORE!!

Plus unfortunately I have a about 500 yards of dirt road, no gravel, it has the occasional loose rock but I have my guys going over it now for that, and removing any they find. I am so worried about this and considering pouring cement over this to make it ok? Or if I just make sure there is not much rocks, it is not gravel, do you think this is ok? Especially with a 2014 RT?

Thank you, this is such wonderful material, and will save me from spending huge money on my bike! Thank YOU!!!

Read the first post of this entire thread. It is updated constantly by me. There are certainly shifting suggestions for the 1330 engine.

[pegasus1300]

I have read re read and printed off the 1st post in this series.As a result I have lowered the gear I ride in especially at slower speeds. I was riding in 3rd but have now gone to 2nd in an attempt to keep the engine between 4500 and 5500 rpm. I no longer attempt to shift to 5th anywhere except the freeway which here in rural Utah I seldom see.I have had my 2012 RT since 6/5/2015 and between rain showers have managed 500 miles. I am averaging right around 29.7 MPG which I am happy with as it is better then the 1500 Gold Wing trike I sold to be able to buy this.It is better then I was led to believe it would be. I find it smooths out at 5000 rpm and it is nice to touch the throttle and just go. The engine seems quite happy around there so I am fine with it too. I will be going in Friday to have the 9300 mi service done by the dealer. Any suggestions on where to get my own service manual? To those who took the (not inconsiderable) time to research and enter all this information and experience,Thank You,Thank You, Thank You. I think every dealer that really cares about the Spyder and their customers should put a copy of this 1st post with the sales contract of every Spyder they sell new or used. I think it would save everybody a lot of grief.

Your experience may be different

[Illinois Boy]

I have read re read and printed off the 1st post in this series.As a result I have lowered the gear I ride in especially at slower speeds. I was riding in 3rd but have now gone to 2nd in an attempt to keep the engine between 4500 and 5500 rpm. I no longer attempt to shift to 5th anywhere except the freeway which here in rural Utah I seldom see.I have had my 2012 RT since 6/5/2015 and between rain showers have managed 500 miles. I am averaging right around 29.7 MPG which I am happy with as it is better then the 1500 Gold Wing trike I sold to be able to buy this.It is better then I was led to believe it would be. I find it smooths out at 5000 rpm and it is nice to touch the throttle and just go. The engine seems quite happy around there so I am fine with it too. I will be going in Friday to have the 9300 mi service done by the dealer. Any suggestions on where to get my own service manual? To those who took the (not inconsiderable) time to research and enter all this information and experience,Thank You,Thank You, Thank You. I think every dealer that really cares about the Spyder and their customers should put a copy of this 1st post with the sales contract of every Spyder they sell new or used. I think it would save everybody a lot of grief.

Your experience may be different

I do not have the link for a service manual; but you can google it and you should find one. They typically are just copies made of an original manual and may not always be the highest of quality; but will work better than not having one at all.

Ride often, safe, and aware,

Illinois Boy

[beadaholic]

I will re-read it again, I already have been over it a few times. I just don't feel it is quite as clear as what I posted, I wish it was like the part for the 998 engine. But know this: I APPRECIATE IT VERY VERY MUCH! Being I have never owned a motorcycle I am absorbing info like a sponge. I don't have a fellow/friend/husband who rides either. I am in a foreign country on my own! haha, so I am often at a loss to figure out something new, but not afraid of trying! I think there might be some group of Spyder riders about 2 hours away in Mexico City, and I am trying to dig them up so I can join them too if they will have me. But I have not had any good luck yet. Anyway, will print this out today and go over it again! Again THANK YOU!

Read the first post of this entire thread. It is updated constantly by me. There are certainly shifting suggestions for the 1330 engine.

[Illinois Boy]

I will re-read it again, I already have been over it a few times. I just don't feel it is quite as clear as what I posted, I wish it was like the part for the 998 engine. But know this: I APPRECIATE IT VERY VERY MUCH! Being I have never owned a motorcycle I am absorbing info like a sponge. I don't have a fellow/friend/husband who rides either. I am in a foreign country on my own! haha, so I am often at a loss to figure out something new, but not afraid of trying! I think there might be some group of Spyder riders about 2 hours away in Mexico City, and I am trying to dig them up so I can join them too if they will have me. But I have not had any good luck yet. Anyway, will print this out today and go over it again! Again THANK YOU!

You have a 1330 engine and it does not need to be operated at the higher rpm's of the 998 engine. Do not use the 998's recommended shift-points for your 1330.

Most people shift the 1330 around the 2500 to 3000 rpm mark. That is about as specific as it gets with the 1330. So do not over think the 1330.

The 1330 was brought to the market to satisfy the average US owner (typically the older owners) who are more accustomed to lower rpm engines. The ECO shift-points were listed; but most feel they are too conservative. Again, shift around 2500 to 3000 and you will be fine. That is consistent with the majority view.

Ride safe, often and aware!

Illinois Boy

[beadaholic]

It is now crystal clear for me and I have been riding it like it says here, I have left it in Eco mode for now to help me remember to change gears and to learn to do this better. I really do appreciate the help! Thank YOU!

You have a 1330 engine and it does not need to be operated at the higher rpm's of the 998 engine.
Ride safe, often and aware!