**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[Illinois Boy]

Wow did I miss it or did some one forget the dreaded owners manual read. Itmhas a lot of what is talked about, but I sure could have missed that post

Added your suggestion as #1 on the list. That was a serious mistake on my part... but it is on the list now.

(I am adding suggestions to the first post's list as they come in...)

[Ga Blue Knight]

One more item that my son is guilty of is not riding for weeks and then going on a long ride of several hundred miles. What happens is the battery runs down and then charges up. Without a battery tender hooked up in the interim the battery takes a real beating. On the last ride his bike died and we had to do over 500 miles that day to get his bike back home. So, keep you battery charged up fully as much as possible.

[ARCTIC]

Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard

[Campverdefela]

Some of the best advise I've seen on here...

[MRH]

When I purchased mine I generated codes the first day riding the brake (costing my dealer a drive to pick it up and return it, and me the better part of the first week without use of it). I think that I somewhere read that on a 2010 RT the new update that resolves the touching the brake issue doesn't apply - but I may be wrong.

I'd also been shifting pretty much as soon as the Spyder will let me - keeping the RPM's low, and am now working to break that bad habit (nobody told me, until I read it here, but that took a while). 5000? Really? I doubt I've been there much at all. It sounds like I should really only be in first or second in city driving. Nobody tells you this stuff. When I asked my dealer when to shift, they didn't have an answer for me at all. It all feels counter-intuitive.

I'd have loved to have found this list on the site day one - can it be added as a sticky in the general forum?? I think it would head off a lot of issues for new owners, and possibly for some more experienced owners as well.

As to the battery cables, I still haven't figured out where those are, and it took me some time to locate the fuses - it would make sense to have info on both of those in the thread. When you're starting from zero, the list in #9 is hard to do without much more information.

This was a great post, thank you!

[Jeriatric]

You've hit it out of the park with this post. Once you have it complete it does need a special spot here so "NEW OWNERS" don't have to learn so much the hard way. Well done

[napper39]

as far as where is the battery are leader has a post and shows you how to get to the battery look under the seat but to get to it you need to remove a pannel.lamont has you coverd.

[MMcc]

If the brake fluid level gets a little low you will get a brake failure notice scrolling on the screen. Check the fluid level before you panic. Add fluid to almost overflowing and the brake failure notice should disappear when you restart. If this does not correct the problem then see your dealer.

[angel]

#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

but your info is great otherwise

[Illinois Boy]

Okay... I keep adding suggestions. Thanks guys.

Please keep in mind we are only talking about "stock" Spyders and only basic ideas that are on a "must do or don't do" basis for new ryders. Customization and other performance ideas would not be what we are looking for... since they are endless and personal; and are constantly changing.

[iSpyder]

Waiting to pick up my first Spyder any day now. Can't wait to hit the road a little and start getting used to it. This forum and posts like these are just awesome for newbies like me!
Thank you!

[Mr. Duece]

Great thread. Many of US assume alot of things but having that check list in front of us sure helps.

[OldDog]

Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.

I have heard much said about loose battery cables and fuses creating problems. Couldn't the battery cables have some kind of connector that assures they are always tight but at the same time removable? Couldn't fuses be replaced with breakers? Am I missing something? It seems from my reading this has always been a setup issue with less than scrupulous dealers.

[Asti hani]

Good info

[HollyH]

Thank you for posting this! it is very helpful.

[Star Cruiser]

Great post a nd a goodd reminder to all. I have always promoted the higher rpm shift and cruise. No problems through my first RS and now on the RT-S.
I didn't know about the brake fluid, so thanks for that. also, I never had to worry about the battery tender, but I don't think using one would hurt anything. (has anyone tried one of the solar chargers?)

[quickster47]

There is certainly some thorough, well thought out, sage advise in this thread. And being a new RT Limited owner it is very much appreciated.

Carl

[Elembytes]

Thank you for posting these for NEWBIES and as some say the OLDIES too. Great insight and tips!

Believe it or not- this "NEWBIE" who doesn't even own a SPYDER RT (YET) has already read the complete owner's manual already.

I also live on a gravel road and was thinking of getting a belt shield Thankfully I'd only have to go 2 miles TOPS on gravel! Still though that worries me- about belts and so forth.

I also worry about the low ground clearance and fuel economy or lack thereof on this but also understand too it is almost 1000 pounds etc.

Thanks again for the GREAT TIPS!

[Arthur---Mexico]

I suspected that I was riding the right foot operated brake. To really find out if this was so I installed a bright blue LED on the dash on my SE5 GS and wired it in the circuit of the brake light. Anytime the foot brake is actuated the least little bit the LED turns on. I found that I was NOT riding the foot brake. It's an easy and low cost improvement. Arthur---Mexico City.

[smoky]

I have never seen a better set of "to do and not" rules...BRP should incorporate this into all Spyder operator's manuals...I know...some of it's already there but this is worded so well....smoky

[Farmbanker]

Just a post to move this valuable thread up.

[Spyder-Bob]

Thanks .... Good stuff

This has answered a lot of questions I am a newbie.

[kinggeek]

A must read for all new and many seasoned Spyder riders.

[SllimG]

I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?

[mdale46]

New Spyder rider/owner here. The info here is great. Thanks to everyone who has posted. I have listened and learner!