Help - Trouble lights and Limp Mode

[MRH]

I posted this in another thread, but should have likely began with an appropriate title.

FROM LAST NIGHT:
My RT was in for maintenance and to add some Custom Dynamics lighting, and came back today. Well, I took it out tonight and after about twenty minutes I discovered new issues. A Check DPS warning, a flashing engine light, and that squiggly thing warning light. I assumed that it was bad breaking (I'd done that when I first got the bike - and assumed that a sensitivity may have changed if there was an update). Despite careful riding, I got it twice more, both after riding it about 15 mins (give or take), this time flashing limp mode, but only once or so - it didn't seem to stick, although the warning lights did. I am running six small and one large LED light and have checked the boards to find that this can be caused by electrical sensitivity. The Spyder also felt a bit different (slippery?) on the corners, but that may be in my head. In general, it feels a bit smoother after the service - except for this, of course.

Of course, my dealer is closed until Tuesday, and I'd like to see if I can address this myself. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

UPDATE FROM LAST NIGHT:
Here's a follow-up. I did some more research, and found out how to check the fault code (this was checked about an hour after I finished riding, should that be relevant). It's a P0504, which does seem to be the brake pedal issue - but I haven't seen that since I first got the bike, and I don't think I'm riding it differently today than on any other day.

FROM THIS MORNING:
Unlike last night, where the error basically cleared, now when I start the motor up I get an engine light right away (both the light, and the message on the display panel). The error code is still P0504 (mismatch between brake pedal and expected brake pressure - the normal error for riding the break), with an intermittent P0000. I've never checked brake fluid before, but it seems to be OK. I don't know if running the lights for a little bit last night on the battery was an issue, but last night the engine didn't show an error is the motor was started up.

It's painful to have to get it to the dealer, and time consuming, so I'm hoping there is some wisdom here that I may have missed in the previous posts I read searching this error. Any suggestions would be very welcomed.

Mark

[Grandpa Spyder]

Well I am probably not much help, but I would make sure the battery has a good charge and it don't take a lot for the brake fluid to be low. Might want to recheck that. I know there are more knowledgeable people on here that may have some better suggestions.

[MRH]

How do I check the charge on the battery?? Can I hook it to my car battery?

[Grandpa Spyder]

How do I check the charge on the battery?? Can I hook it to my car battery?

I bought a voltage read out thing at wal-mart that you can plug into your power point in the trunk if you have an RT and it will give you a digital reading right away. it should read around 12.85 is what mine reads. I also have a battery tender that I keep hooked up to mine when not in use and I plug it into that same power point.

[Dwanton]

Just my opinion and suggestion for you to try .

Try dissconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so .

Make sure the cables are tight when putting them back on .

[Grandpa Spyder]

Here is a picture of what I am talking about.

[MRH]

I know this sounds like like a primitive question - how do I disconnect the battery?

[Arr MiHardies]

Are the new lights connected straight into the battery with a switch or something? Or are they being powered by something else, like say, the running brake lights? If its the latter, it could be the cause of your problems.

[MRH]

Are the new lights connected straight into the battery with a switch or something? Or are they being powered by something else, like say, the running brake lights? If its the latter, it could be the cause of your problems.

The new lights are connected to the brake lights, as one is a brake light. The two on the saddle bags, should not be connected to the brake system, but seem to be hooked up that way by mistake. My dealer did the work, I didn't want to touch the electrical system by myself. My thought was to have it fixed by them next service (which is what I told them - not worth the effort right now).

Mark

[MRH]

Oh, I did get a battery meter, and off it was in the mid twelves, with the motor on it was in the mid thirteens. Overall voltage doesn't seem to be the issue.

[napper39]

i would say still get a battery tender and keep it on all times you are not riding,make sure the batt. cables are tight,they vibrate loose.check often,dont froget the fusses and relays comes lose from vibration so watch them if they get loose you will have all kinds of things ruin your day.and like you know dont get your foot even close to the brake or limp mode.hope this helps,have fun and ride like the wind.

[MRH]

Are the new lights connected straight into the battery with a switch or something? Or are they being powered by something else, like say, the running brake lights? If its the latter, it could be the cause of your problems.

So, I thought about what you said, was able to find where the new lights were connected (to the brake lighting system), and disconnected both. When I turned the bike on, I watched as the engine light went on, and then went off, with no error code reporting on the bike. I took it out for a ride about twice as long as the previous two the had gotten it to fail, and no issues presented themselves. The new lighting bar is still working and in place, but not the incorrectly connected saddle bag lights.

The lights can be easily hooked up the right way next time I'm at the dealership, but for now I have a working bike (still with extra lighting) and can sleep far better tonight. My wife suggests I resign myself to the fact that I've invested in a hobby that will require a lot more of me than my car (she compared it to buying an old MG), but with this group it ought to be a lot more manageable.

Many thanks to all of you for your thoughts - I've learned a lot just by testing ideas.

Mark

[Arr MiHardies]

So, I thought about what you said, was able to find where the new lights were connected (to the brake lighting system), and disconnected both. When I turned the bike on, I watched as the engine light went on, and then went off, with no error code reporting on the bike. I took it out for a ride about twice as long as the previous two the had gotten it to fail, and no issues presented themselves. The new lighting bar is still working and in place, but not the incorrectly connected saddle bag lights.

The lights can be easily hooked up the right way next time I'm at the dealership, but for now I have a working bike (still with extra lighting) and can sleep far better tonight. My wife suggests I resign myself to the fact that I've invested in a hobby that will require a lot more of me than my car (she compared it to buying an old MG), but with this group it ought to be a lot more manageable.

Many thanks to all of you for your thoughts - I've learned a lot just by testing ideas.

Mark

Go to TricLED.com, check the new products section and invest in the fuze FZ 1 fuse block. Youll run a dedicated wire from the fuse block to your battery, and connect your lights into the fuse block. The nice thing about this fuze block is it has switched power, meaning it can be set up to turn everything on automatically when your Spyder is turned on, and off again when it turns off. If you also grab a power switch from an auto parts store, you can set it up so you can turn the lights on or off as needed. A good idea if you go through states where accent lighting isn't legal, or you get pulled over by a cop having a bad day.

[Arr MiHardies]

saddle bag lights.

Saddle bag lights? Someone else stealing my ideas? ;D or are these the lights that replace the reflectors?

[Bob Denman]

Saddle bag lights? Someone else stealing my ideas?

Try thinking of it as imitation being the sincerest form of flattery!