RT SE 5 oil filter bolt aceess question +

[Jeriatric]

Changing oil has been on my list for a couple of days now. Removed all the panels except the flat black one that sets just on top of the foot peg support, and that's what brings me here.

Question.

Has anyone removed that panel and drilled an access hole in the plastic support that sets directly in front of the lower right bolt on the tranny filter bowl? If so. How did it work out?

If not, has anyone designed and or constructed a special tool to ease getting to this bolt?

One of the two of these approaches should make the job of R&Ring the tranny filter a much, much, easier task. IMO

Also, looking at the owners manual, as well as the shop manual there are torque values called out for the engine and oil tank plugs, but I found NOTHING on torque values for the filter bowl bolts (engine and/or trans filter). I think Scotty advised it's 97 in. lbs (?) Not doubting Scotty, just making use of the money I've spent on manuals, I went to the bolt size and torque guide in the *shop manual and found that for a 8.8 M6 bolt their recommended torque range is from 71 to 106 inch pounds. I decided to split the difference and torque to 80 inch lbs and if no leaks develop this is where I'll keep it. Always room to go up.

Also for anyone that uses the shop manual - (and the one I'm using was printed for the 2010 RT) - be careful when looking at their printed torque values for specific bolt sizes and strengths - on several of them they failed to note inch pounds and they incorrectly read as if they are FT lbs of torque. I'm sure most would catch this but, just in case.

Interested in hearing if anyone has done either of the things I've asked about.

Jer

[NancysToy]

The lower black panel isn't really hard to take off. Just a handful of screws and off it comes. I take it off because it is easier than working my way in from above or below. Not sure if that would even be enough for an SE, though.

The torque specs are shown on the blow-up diagram at the beginning of each shop manual section, right after the service tools page. The "Lubrication System" diagram shows the crankcase plug, oil filter cover screws, and the oil tank plug. The "Hydraulic Control Module" section shows the transmission filter plug. I don't make this stuff up!

[Jeriatric]

The lower black panel isn't really hard to take off. Just a handful of screws and off it comes. I take it off because it is easier than working my way in from above or below. Not sure if that would even be enough for an SE, though.

The torque specs are shown on the blow-up diagram at the beginning of each shop manual section, right after the service tools page. The "Lubrication System" diagram shows the crankcase plug, oil filter cover screws, and the oil tank plug. The "Hydraulic Control Module" section shows the transmission filter plug. I don't make this stuff up!

No problem with the lower panel, have had it off. My question pertains to the plastic vertical support that's right in front of the lower right tranny filter screw.

And I'm sure glad you don't make things up. You would disappoint a lot of folks

[kinggeek]

No problem with the lower panel, have had it off. My question pertains to the plastic vertical support that's right in front of the lower right tranny filter screw.

And I'm sure glad you don't make things up. You would disappoint a lot of folks

I know exactly what you are talking about and it is a pain in the butt! You can loosen that cage just enough to get a tool behnd it. I have heard some have drilled a hole but it is easy enough just to loosen it..

[NancysToy]

No problem with the lower panel, have had it off. My question pertains to the plastic vertical support that's right in front of the lower right tranny filter screw.

And I'm sure glad you don't make things up. You would disappoint a lot of folks

It seems like someone said they drilled a hole there, but I can't remember who and I can't find it when I search. Maybe I do make this stuff up.

[Jeriatric]

[BajaRon]

It seems like someone said they drilled a hole there, but I can't remember who and I can't find it when I search. Maybe I do make this stuff up.

If you don't delete this post I fear you may be seeing it again, and again....

[Pandy]

I think I know the screw (bolt?) you are referring to. It seems I use a ball hex to get in there and have had no further trouble. Northern Tool has a really nifty ball hex set on sale right now. Just might have to update my collection.

Patrick

[Jeriatric]

I think I know the screw (bolt?) you are referring to. It seems I use a ball hex to get in there and have had no further trouble. Northern Tool has a really nifty ball hex set on sale right now. Just might have to update my collection.

Patrick

Patrick,

Have one in the bicycle tool box, just didn't think it would do the job. Will give it a shot next time and may add a hole in that vertical support too. If it doesnt look like it would cause a problem.

Thanks
Jer

Screw/bolt? You know, that thing with threads on it. LOL

[Jeriatric]

Back in Feb of 2010 Lamont came up with a fix to get to the bolt in question. I did it to my machine and all is good.

The fix http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...er-%28RT-SE%29

Way to go Lamonster!!

Thanks Doc

[ulflyer]

I drilled mine at the first oil change I did at 600 mi. Forget where I found the long hex wrench tho......