Motorcycle oil at Walmart and amsoil

[aka1004]

Now that mobil1 is no longer suitable for spyder, castroll oil sold at Walmart is still good, right?
Also, is amsoil carried by any retailer at all?
I know someone here sells them, may be Ron who I get filters from, but I like to be able to but them when I am not in my home area.
MLM turns me off but if it's that good, I was willing to try. Are their published comparison done by a 3rd party?

[cjackg]

Castrol RS 4T Full Syn motorcycle oil is not usually available at Walmart but you can buy it at most Advanced Auto Parts or at Cycle Gear.

[Starrider]

Walmart in my area sells Valvoline Synthetic 10-40 for motorcycles, which I run in the wife's 08 RS. As I remember on Amsoil's test resut charts is rated just a few spots below Amsoil. Walmart also sells Mobil Synthetic 10-40 for motorcycles. Don't remember the name right off but not the same as Mobil 1.

[madjack]

LOL!! Didn't hear about the Mobil 1 fairy tale. 20-50 ,all i've ever put in the.or as far as that goes in any of my motorcycles. 02 kaw mean streak,02kaw zx-14, 02hd ultra, 09 kaw 650klr, o8 rs se5. won't consider another brand or weight

[NancysToy]

LOL!! Didn't hear about the Mobil 1 fairy tale. 20-50 ,all i've ever put in the.or as far as that goes in any of my motorcycles. 02 kaw mean streak,02kaw zx-14, 02hd ultra, 09 kaw 650klr, o8 rs se5. won't consider another brand or weight

Running 20W-50 in an engine designed for 5W-40 is just asking for trouble.

[madjack]

Sorry professor, but "asking for trouble" is a little to vague.

[freebob]

Sorry professor, but "asking for trouble" is a little to vague.

I also have used Mobile1 4T Syn 10-40 from my first Spyder ,, 08 PE GS and now in my 10 RTs..

Got caught up in the hype on Amsoil and gave it a try....did not hold up to hype...I won't go into details here
but did not perform up to my standards...both Spyders are manual shift now I'm back to Mobile 1...



Freebob...

[aka1004]

I also have used Mobile1 4T Syn 10-40 from my first Spyder ,, 08 PE GS and now in my 10 RTs..

Got caught up in the hype on Amsoil and gave it a try....did not hold up to hype...I won't go into details here
but did not perform up to my standards...both Spyders are manual shift now I'm back to Mobile 1...



Freebob...

I been using mobil1 for the convenience but wasn't there a thread about mobil1 being changed?
I've seen some walmarts carrying castroll so I was gonna go with that unless amsoil was worth the trouble...
Please do go into details.

[Sarge707]

I switched to Amsoil after using Mobil1 4T and then Castrol 4T RS when the Mobil 1 API changed.
Use Amsoil now and have 12 more quarts in a box so it better be good!!!

[gypsy_100]

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil. I think BRP is missing the boat on this oil due to their unfamiliarity with the motorcycle world. Mobil 1 motorcycle oil does indeed meet API spec SM which BRP states should not be used and will cause clutch slippage. However, Mobil 1 motorcycle oil also meets JASO MA which is the holy grail as far as wet clutch performance is concerned. If you own a Honda motorcycle, for example, they specify that the oil must meet JASO MA. That pretty much excludes any regular automotive oil and is a way of specifying that it must be motorcycle oil that has been tested for wet clutch performance. I think BRP is unaware of this spec since they don't live in the motorcycle world. Their concern over API SM is likely based on automotive oils meeting API SM specs which would also state "energy conserving" in the API seal on the bottle. Honda prohibits using any oil with an API "energy conserving" seal on it -- they are too "slippery" for long-lived wet clutch performance. All high-quality automotive oils, even pre-SM oils like SJ or SL had the "energy conserving" seal on them. So according to BRP, you could use one of those automotive oils (SJ or SL energy conserving) and meet their spec while being totally outside Honda's spec. I personally think that is incorrect thinking on their part and what they should be doing is copying Honda and other motorcycle manufacturers. They should be specifying motorcycle oil meeting JASO MA and prohibiting API "energy conserving" in order to assure good wet clutch performance. API SM is not the problem in and of itself. If you look on your Amsoil bottles, Amsoil meets JASO MA and has an API SL rating, not stating "energy conserving". Mobil 1 4T meets JASO MA and has an API SM rating and is not "energy conserving". If you look at automotive oils, you will not find them tested against JASO MA and you will find the better ones to be "energy conserving". Personal anecdotes on oil are highly unreliable in my opinion but I will offer one anyway. I've used predominately Mobil 1 4T, and occasionally Amsoil, in every motorcycle I've owned and had excellent performance. For example, 95,000 miles on a Gold Wing which is a big heavy motorcycle that demands a lot out of a clutch, and not a trace of slippage. That said, you go against BRP recommendations at your own risk.

[NancysToy]

Sorry professor, but "asking for trouble" is a little to vague.

Engine clearances and oil pumps, oil passages, etc., are designed for a particular oil viscosity. Increasing the warm weather viscosity from 40 to 50 weight can increase oil pressure beyond tolerable limits, and actually inhibit oil flow under some conditions. It can also cause physical damage as close tolerance parts literally are forced apart under pressure, or starve plain bearing surfaces such as the camshaft bearings when the thicker oil can't flow as readily to them. Increasing the cold weather viscosity from 5 to 20 is a much larger jump, and can similar, but more devastating effects on a cold engine in cold weather, even starving the oiling system and damaging bearings, as well as causing serious wet clutch issues and transmission problems.

[Spy+]

I switched to Amsoil after using Mobil1 4T and then Castrol 4T RS when the Mobil 1 API changed.
Use Amsoil now and have 12 more quarts in a box so it better be good!!!

Amsoil is the way to go!!!

[Grandpa Spyder]

All I know is that if you have a oil related problem that damages your engine AmsOil will cover the cost of repair. I have a case of AmsOil and changed to it at the 600 mile change.I am using the motor cycle oil in 10w40. And I will continue to use it as long as I own a

[MarkLawson]

I use the BRP full synthetic and not worry about it.

[Firefly]

I use the BRP full synthetic and not worry about it.

I did too..... Until they stopped selling it. Now it's all a blend---- not full syn and no weights listed.... Just 'summer blend'. Uggggg

Now running amsoil and seems fine.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[retread]

BRP has a full synthetic again, but I couldn't find a viscosity rating on the jug.

john

[spyryder]

Anyone tried Mobil 1 5W-40 synthetic diesel? I used it a few years ago with no problems but went back to BRP's synthetic blend for now.

[SpyderAnn01]

Now that mobil1 is no longer suitable for spyder, castroll oil sold at Walmart is still good, right?
Also, is amsoil carried by any retailer at all?
I know someone here sells them, may be Ron who I get filters from, but I like to be able to but them when I am not in my home area.
MLM turns me off but if it's that good, I was willing to try. Are their published comparison done by a 3rd party?

In Michigan we could buy Amsoil at our Auto Value Parts store. We have an Amsoil distributor here in Las Vegas that I buy from.

[AMTJIM]

The Suzuki SV 1k and 650 ran great on Rotella "T", I think a few people tried it on their Spyder and it developed a clutch slip. I believe it did return to normal performance with a return to motorcycle oil.

Anyone tried Mobil 1 5W-40 synthetic diesel? I used it a few years ago with no problems but went back to BRP's synthetic blend for now.

[mastertek2000]

i will be doing my first service my self i am a automotive master technician so i will use can am factory stuff for the first time
but after that am soil is the only way i have been selling am soil for the longest time and is all i run on all my bike never had a problem

[Grandpa Spyder]

i will be doing my first service my self i am a automotive master technician so i will use can am factory stuff for the first time
but after that am soil is the only way i have been selling am soil for the longest time and is all i run on all my bike never had a problem

I went with Amsoil right from the start. It took me about 2 hours to do my 1st oil change. I can most likely cut that time in half next time. I only had 2 screws left over.

[Bob Denman]

I think that discussing oil brands might even be more fun than tire brands or cleaning products...

[boborgera]

I think that discussing oil brands might even be more fun than tire brands or cleaning products...

Your slipping, You for got octane wars, Of 08-09-10-11-12.

[madjack]

Whats the first thing to do when you start to market a engine oil. Oh yea," we'll replace your engine if the oil causes failure," what a joke. In my 35+ years of engine repairing & biulding, I have never seen a case where a paticuler brand, or viscosity could ever be blamed for a failure. Human neglect, abuse, incompetence you bet, parts failure from manufscture defect, fatigue, improper application, many times. But NEVER because of the oil being used.

[billybovine]

Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil. I think BRP is missing the boat on this oil due to their unfamiliarity with the motorcycle world. Mobil 1 motorcycle oil does indeed meet API spec SM which BRP states should not be used and will cause clutch slippage. However, Mobil 1 motorcycle oil also meets JASO MA which is the holy grail as far as wet clutch performance is concerned. If you own a Honda motorcycle, for example, they specify that the oil must meet JASO MA. That pretty much excludes any regular automotive oil and is a way of specifying that it must be motorcycle oil that has been tested for wet clutch performance. I think BRP is unaware of this spec since they don't live in the motorcycle world. Their concern over API SM is likely based on automotive oils meeting API SM specs which would also state "energy conserving" in the API seal on the bottle. Honda prohibits using any oil with an API "energy conserving" seal on it -- they are too "slippery" for long-lived wet clutch performance. All high-quality automotive oils, even pre-SM oils like SJ or SL had the "energy conserving" seal on them. So according to BRP, you could use one of those automotive oils (SJ or SL energy conserving) and meet their spec while being totally outside Honda's spec. I personally think that is incorrect thinking on their part and what they should be doing is copying Honda and other motorcycle manufacturers. They should be specifying motorcycle oil meeting JASO MA and prohibiting API "energy conserving" in order to assure good wet clutch performance. API SM is not the problem in and of itself. If you look on your Amsoil bottles, Amsoil meets JASO MA and has an API SL rating, not stating "energy conserving". Mobil 1 4T meets JASO MA and has an API SM rating and is not "energy conserving". If you look at automotive oils, you will not find them tested against JASO MA and you will find the better ones to be "energy conserving". Personal anecdotes on oil are highly unreliable in my opinion but I will offer one anyway. I've used predominately Mobil 1 4T, and occasionally Amsoil, in every motorcycle I've owned and had excellent performance. For example, 95,000 miles on a Gold Wing which is a big heavy motorcycle that demands a lot out of a clutch, and not a trace of slippage. That said, you go against BRP recommendations at your own risk.

The JASO MA spec has been replace by JASO MA1 & MA2 this is because Japanese motorcyle manufactures still had problems with excessive clutch slippage with the original spec. So the specification has been split in two with MA2 with better clutch slippage preformace. I am not sure why BRP singled out the SM rating and not SJ & SL but it may have to do with the requirements for lower ash content for SM which is achieved by reducing the amount of detergent added. The reduced ash content was implimented to prevent damage to the catalytic converter.