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  1. #1
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    Question Juice Box settings "Help Needed"

    I have a technical question for you'll about the Juice Box that maybe you'll could help me with. I have a 09 Spyder RS in which I have the Juice Box, K&N air filter and a Two Brothers M-2 single slip on exhaust installed. My question is what is the ideal setting for each mode on the Juice Box for that setup? I already had the exhaust on the bike and just installed the Juice Box and air filter on Wednesday in which I made no adjustment to the Juice Box and left it how it was pre-set and test drove it and everything seemed great. Yesterday I really went for a long ride and for the first couple of hours everything was great then when I was coming off a nice top end and slowing down to turn into a shopping center the engine stalled "cut off" causing me to loose my steering (DANGEROUS) but I was able to pull the clutch in and push the start button in which the engine cut back on immediately. This happened to me about four times yesterday while slowing to make a turn. From that point all I could think about the engine cutting out on me while on the highway (very scarry). I never had this problem prior to the installation of the Juice Box so that is why I believe the pre-set settings might need adjusting. I have read on some forums that if mode 5 (yellow-blue pre-set=4) and mode 6 (red-blue pre-set=4) are set to the same settings that it confuses the Juice Box causing the engine to stall. Is there any truth to this? If so which one should I adjust and which way (up or down)? I am looking to acheive a maximum hole shot, strong acceleration in any gear & a maximum top end. Any help or suggestions you have for the ideal settings for the set-up I have would greatly be appreciated. Thank you so much.

  2. #2
    Registered Users joet82's Avatar
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    Easiest would be to take it to the Dyno and have them customise it.
    RS - 55K+ miles, F3 - 200 miles and counting.


  3. #3
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Sounds to me like it's time to both read your plugs and probably change them. Fuel fouled plugs or bad spark plug wires can cause low speed stalling. Excessive fuel alone can cause flooding when the throttle is suddenly closed. Tuning is more than hooking up a black box and playing with the dials...you have to learn to analyze and adjust as you go.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  4. #4
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    The bike only has 1,600 miles on it and the plugs where changed last Saturday (8 days ago).

  5. #5
    Registered Users Campverdefela's Avatar
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    " I have read on some forums that if mode 5 (yellow-blue pre-set=4) and mode 6 (red-blue pre-set=4) are set to the same settings that it confuses the Juice Box causing the engine to stall. Is there any truth to this? If so which one should I adjust and which way (up or down)? " This seems to be true at least for me and quite a few others. My settings are 2=3,3=4,4=4,5=1.5,6=3.5. Settings five and six should have a difference of two and some have those last two settings the reverse of mine, its an individual choice based on your preferences and the differences between Spyders.
    Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders Amsoil, 10w40, Rons performance wires

  6. #6
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcspyder View Post
    The bike only has 1,600 miles on it and the plugs where changed last Saturday (8 days ago).
    I'd suggest you take another peek at the plugs. Make sure they are the correct heat range and type. Make sure they are colored the same, preferably with light brown deposits on the nose insulation. There should be no signs of wetness or carbon on the electrodes, and they should not be devoid of deposits if your JB is helping add fuel. Be careful with the plug wires. They are easy to damage, and may have been damaged when you changed the plugs previously. Put it in the dark and look for spark jump, especially under load, or when backing off the throttle.

    Reading spark plugs is a fundamental part of tuning. After every change, you read them to see if they are dry and properly colored. If you have problems, you read them to get an idea of what is going on...specially for fuel system related issues. A good tuner reads the plugs after every run. If you want maximum performance, it is a skill you are going to have to practice and develop...no matter how big a pain it is on a Spyder.
    Last edited by NancysToy; 03-25-2012 at 05:24 PM.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

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