Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    Registered Users Bytemi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montclair, VA
    Posts
    517
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Strong Gas Smell

    After my long ride last weekend, my husband and I noticed a strong gas smell in the garage and didn't think anything of it. After riding to work yesterday I parked my Spyder in the garage and went inside to got my GloRyder lights and watched the installation video. When I came back out into the garage the smell was back and very strong. It has to be coming from my Spyder because my husband did not ride. Is this normal? Is there a recall that I missed? Should I call the Colemans?

    08 Spyder GS Manual Premier Edition

  2. #2
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,601
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bytemi View Post
    After my long ride last weekend, my husband and I noticed a strong gas smell in the garage and didn't think anything of it. After riding to work yesterday I parked my Spyder in the garage and went inside to got my GloRyder lights and watched the installation video. When I came back out into the garage the smell was back and very strong. It has to be coming from my Spyder because my husband did not ride. Is this normal? Is there a recall that I missed? Should I call the Colemans?

    08 Spyder GS Manual Premier Edition
    This is something that you want to get checked. You should not be getting this strong fuel smell. It is probably an issue with the purge valve and related vapor canister system. It could also be a fuel leak. Don't let this go undiagnosed.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  3. #3
    Registered Users Bytemi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montclair, VA
    Posts
    517
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I called the shop after I read your message and he said that it was probably just a vent tube doing its job, but I can bring it by tonight if I want too.

    I hate calling Colemans they always make me feel stupid.

  4. #4
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,601
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bytemi View Post
    I called the shop after I read your message and he said that it was probably just a vent tube doing its job, but I can bring it by tonight if I want too.

    I hate calling Colemans they always make me feel stupid.
    It could be just a vent tube doing its job. But if it isn't that is a real problem. What model/year Spyder do you have?

    I'm sorry the dealership has made you feel bad. They should be more than happy to address your complaint.

    Motorcycles and motorcycle mechanics can tend to be a macho environment. But stand your ground and pursue satisfaction. You are as much a valued (to us anyway) Spyder owner as anyone else. You've paid your dime and you want your ride!

    My personal opinion is to get rid of the whole evap canister system and be done with the issues. But that is just my opinion. That system does nothing for the Spyder, it is simply to keep fuel vapors from escaping to the atmosphere (which it is already failing to do).

    My next concern is that if they blew you off over the phone that they won't take a serious look at what may be causing the issue. Too bad you don't live close. Is there any other Spyderlover close to you that might feel qualilfied to take a look at your system?
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  5. #5
    Registered Users Bytemi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montclair, VA
    Posts
    517
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I have an 08 Spyder GS Manual Premier Edition (bought used 8 months ago), I love my Spyder I hate the dealer. After having it for about a month I found that after riding for over 20 minutes I lost my ability to shift. Dealer told me to rock the bike to make it work again and he would get to it when he could (this was a recall item by the way).

    There is no other dealship within a 1 hour ride of me. I have looked. I wish there was someone else. Even Coleman's only has one tech that can work on Spyders. It is frustrating.

  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    13,601
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bytemi View Post
    I have an 08 Spyder GS Manual Premier Edition (bought used 8 months ago), I love my Spyder I hate the dealer. After having it for about a month I found that after riding for over 20 minutes I lost my ability to shift. Dealer told me to rock the bike to make it work again and he would get to it when he could (this was a recall item by the way).

    There is no other dealship within a 1 hour ride of me. I have looked. I wish there was someone else. Even Coleman's only has one tech that can work on Spyders. It is frustrating.
    I certainly do feel your pain. I have the same 08 RS/GS Spyder and I am pretty sure there is also a recall or at least service bulletin regarding your fuel vapor issue.

    Really, the dealership should be more responsive but persistance is the key. A shame, I know, but you can't fix the dealership.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  7. #7
    Registered Users Bytemi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Montclair, VA
    Posts
    517
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    I certainly do feel your pain. I have the same 08 RS/GS Spyder and I am pretty sure there is also a recall or at least service bulletin regarding your fuel vapor issue.

    Really, the dealership should be more responsive but persistance is the key. A shame, I know, but you can't fix the dealership.

    Is there a place where I can check the recalls and bulletin so I can go in with informaion in hand.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Not Here
    Posts
    92,464
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    There might have been a link on the Home Page...
    Ask Lamont or Scotty; they'd know for sure!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    zrc
    Guest

    Default

    I would locate someone that wants to help and they can run your VIN over the phone and see your recorded history. I would locate all the dealers within 1 tank drive (around 150 miles) and see what they are willing to do to "earn" or "win" you as a customer.

    Worst case scenario you could try calling Len and have one of his people run your VIN, they might not be able to service it from Cuba, but I bet he can at least tell you if you need something done. If you then call someone and say "I want updates X Y and Z" then they will know your not just a random person with a question.

    Just my thoughts.

  10. #10
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    There was a service bulletin that applied to some 2008 GS Spyders (and maybe some 2009s?) that had them extend the vent hose, which originally terminated just above the evap canister. If your Spyder has this short vent tube, you should see your dealer or exrend the vent yourself. If you have a vent hose extending out the bottom near the right splash pan behind the radiator, yours has been fixed. Some gas vapors and maybe even a few drops of condensed fuel vapor from the vent tube are common with some vehicles, but if the vapors are quite strong or lingering, or the vent tube dumps a large spot of fuel on the floor, your purge system should be looked at. A similar situation can arise from overfilling the gas tank and filling the evap canister with fuel, in which case it should be replaced. I cannot advise you to remove it.

    I'd advise you to remove the right side body panels ASAP and check your fuel filter and the fuel line. Several fuel filters have become loose, and a few have failed. This is a fire hazard! Make sure the hoses are tight, and there are no leaks at the hoses or seams. Make sure the fuel line is not rubbing against the front head, too, and is still intact. Adjust it for slack and add a piece of tubing or split-loom for protection if necessary. Some 2008 Spyders had short hoses that were routed too close.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  11. #11
    Registered Users TuckMiddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Waleska, GA
    Posts
    678
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Gas fumes, dripping and awful odors

    My bike went 8,000 miles and I never smelled gas once. In the last 2800 miles, including some 20 and 30 degree days, (so it's not just the hot weather) I've been to the dealer 6 or 7 times and we finally have a purge valve on order, might be in today. Ask your dealer to do the purge valve test with BUDS and weight the cannister and also ask him if he's aware that all Spyder operators know this happens to many riders. My canister was full of gas and it was replaced weeks ago. It also appears to be full of gas as we speak.. Naturally it did no good whatsoever, because the purge valve was/still is bad. On last Tues a tech rep finally told the dealer it's ok to do the purge valve test and if it's ok there is nothing they else they can do - it was bad, per above. Previously, whomever the call at BRP had told him it was definately a purge valve!! How would thay know without testing it?
    The canisterectomy is the answer in many cases, search for it in the white square in the top red border that has "home" on it above and read about this problem. BRP refuses to admit they have a real problem, they always seem to go back to "the customer is overfilling!" BS, most are and even if they were, the canister and purge valve should handle it appropriately. Many folks have the canister and purge valve removed before they even get the bike, because they know an unknown percentage have the problem and the rest don't. Makes no sense at all. I'm also insulating the bottom of my fuel tank with more heat reflective material. Evidently the heat from the engine is part of the problem, we'll see. Don't fill up the tank all the way and don't run it too low.
    Read all the posts and see what other people are saying. It's a very confusing problem with a hit or miss solution.

    Good luck with it. Hopefully the purge valve will solve my problem, but I'm only 50% convinced. I've got the few things needed to do the canisterectomy and if that's still required, it's the last choice as far as I know. Does VA have EPA bike testing yearly? Some states do and in those, in theory, the bike would fail if the canister is removed. Not sure how those folks get around that. One of our cars gas caps didn't pass the pressure test last year, easily replaced. Don't know how they would test a canister.

    I'm not an alarmist, and I really love my Spyder, so please don't take any of this as some form of "hate mail." Just trying to get the facts straight and solve the problem(s.) The dealers get caught in the middle so it's not right to get upset with them, unless they try to minimize, or ever negate, the situation. My dealer has been super and I know they will continue to try to help, but BRP, or any manufacturer, keeps a tight rein on what they can and cannot do, partticularly during the warranty period.

    Tuck
    Last edited by TuckMiddle; 03-23-2012 at 11:00 AM.

  12. #12
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Technically, customers may be overfilling, but it is a design issue that makes it so easy to do. The Spyder is not tall enough for much of a vent "loop" above the tank, that would allow any splashed fuel to run back to the tank instead of to the evap canister. The vent tube comes off the tank laterally, then runs down to the evap canister, which unfortunately cannot be mounted higher or at the same level. This makes it easy to accumulate gas in the canister...even from splashing in the tank as the machine bounces down the road! In my opinion, the tip-over valve in the tank isn't doing a good job, either. Most will float and shut off the vent if the tank is overfilled. There is certainly room for improvement in this system. JMHO
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  13. #13
    Very Active Member daveinva's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Washington, D.C.
    Posts
    1,661
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Bytemi-- while I always agree to follow Scotty's and Ron's advice, I wouldn't panic yet. As noted, "the gas smell" is common to the Spyder, in large part because of overfilling/evap canister issues. I've had sporadic gas smells on my bike from the day I bought it. 95% of the time, no smell at all. 5% of that time, WTH? Obviously, if a recall hasn't been done or it's a more serious issue, get it checked out, but don't automatically assume the absolute worst.

    RE: local dealers, by your location I'm assuming you're a Coleman Woodbridge rider... I'm shocked they were so blase, I've heard decent things about them. They're not a *great* dealer, and they ain't cheap, but they're not awful either. Might be worth giving them a chance, and of course, go armed with the info you get here, and ask them what they think.

    As for alternative dealers, if you do run into trouble, here are the alternatives:

    -- Coleman Falls Church: The next closest, my home dealer. Probably the same issues as Coleman Woodbridge-- they're not cheap, they're VERY busy, but I've had very good experiences with them over the past year.

    -- Trumbull Motorsports in Mechanicsville, MD: I used these guys to install my floorboards, highway pegs and dash-mounted Powerlets. Labor's a little cheaper than down in VA *and* they did the work while I waited. Downside to them is that it's a hike from where you are, and there's nowhere to wait while they work: it's a small BRP/Can-Am only shop servicing Spyders, Sea-Doos and ATVs, I literally just plopped down in the parking lot and leaned against a crate for a couple hours. Thus, you'd want to convoy out there to go elsewhere to hang out.

    -- Talbot Powersports in Easton, MD: Platinum dealer and comes highly recommended from some owners here on the board. But even more of a hike out on the Eastern Shore.

    -- Fredericksburg Motorsports: Never heard anyone use them so I have no opinion. Did drive down to the shop one day just to check it out, a modestly-sized dealership that focuses mostly on other bikes, i.e. Spyders strike me as a small share of their business.

    The downside to everyone is that we're now in Spring, so everyone is getting their bikes out of storage/tuned up so all the dealers are going to be busy-- and most of the Can-Am dealers here do dual-duty as Sea-Doo dealers/mechanics as well, so they're starting to spin up business too.

    Good luck!
    Silver 2010 RS SE5: Triple Play, Taillight, Brightsides, Fender Tips, Easy Risers; Evo Sway Bar; Airhawk R & Beadrider; latch springs; Grab-On grips; Crampbuster; 24" Madstad smoke windshield & deflectors; N-R round bag & soft saddlebags; BRP handlebar bag; Throttlemeister; Spyderpops Missing Air Dam & Air Mgmt System; Rivco driver & passenger boards & pegs; ISCI parking brake extension; Ultimate Midrider Seat w/both backrests, Fox Racing Shocks, Yoshi R-77 exhaust and a whole lotta love!

  14. #14
    Registered Users TuckMiddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Waleska, GA
    Posts
    678
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Thumbs up Fuel

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Technically, customers may be overfilling, but it is a design issue that makes it so easy to do. The Spyder is not tall enough for much of a vent "loop" above the tank, that would allow any splashed fuel to run back to the tank instead of to the evap canister. The vent tube comes off the tank laterally, then runs down to the evap canister, which unfortunately cannot be mounted higher or at the same level. This makes it easy to accumulate gas in the canister...even from splashing in the tank as the machine bounces down the road! In my opinion, the tip-over valve in the tank isn't doing a good job, either. Most will float and shut off the vent if the tank is overfilled. There is certainly room for improvement in this system. JMHO
    Well put.
    I'm a little aggravated over this fuel thing, as most are.

    If there were a viable solution in the works or on the horizon, I'd sure feel a lot better about it.

    Scotty, if a fuel filter is placed in the line to keep crud from getting into the tank, will it also possibly help the outflow? If not, and I think no is the answer, is there some kind of "restriction" to put in the vent line that's available? Obviously, don't want to pressurize the tank, but maybe slow the fumes and dripping.
    Maybe coiling the vent line as high as possible. That doesn't sound good in case the line rubs and starts to leak!!

    Anyway, if you come up with a restrictor or another approach, let us know, ok? The fact that some fume/leak and some don't really is puzzling. In a production car, aircraft or whatever, they all should be the same. Having 30% or what ever it is going off and doing something else is unsatisfactory.

    Thanks again.

    Tuck

  15. #15
    Registered Users Campverdefela's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Camp Verde, Az.
    Posts
    872
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    Technically, customers may be overfilling, but it is a design issue that makes it so easy to do. The Spyder is not tall enough for much of a vent "loop" above the tank, that would allow any splashed fuel to run back to the tank instead of to the evap canister. The vent tube comes off the tank laterally, then runs down to the evap canister, which unfortunately cannot be mounted higher or at the same level. This makes it easy to accumulate gas in the canister...even from splashing in the tank as the machine bounces down the road! In my opinion, the tip-over valve in the tank isn't doing a good job, either. Most will float and shut off the vent if the tank is overfilled. There is certainly room for improvement in this system. JMHO
    What about making a longer line from the tank to the canister and snaking it as high as possible before going into the canister. I think you can get it slightly higher than the tank. Not a problem with me as I've eliminated the purge and canister.
    Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders Amsoil, 10w40, Rons performance wires

  16. #16
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    The vent line is already pretty much as high as possible, and that is the crux of the problem. It can't be safely looped and kept from being exposed either to damage or to the electronics/electrical components. I suppose you could engineer an armored line up into the console or something, but that scares me! Understand that this vent must flow smoothly to the canister, avoiding true loops or anything that could cause it to fill or airlock. If there was a simple solution, I'm sure BRP's engineers would have implemented it by now.
    -Scotty
    2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
    2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
    2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder



    Mutant Trikes Forever!

  17. #17
    Registered Users Weave2u's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    California City, CA
    Posts
    286
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    My '09 had gas fume smells off and on... I read on here that a lot of people had the issue, so when it happened... I'd just air out my garage... never had anything come of it.
    I don't consider myself a Spyder Ryder, I consider myself a Spyder Pylot!!

  18. #18
    Invalid Emails
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    winnipeg mb
    Posts
    981
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    There was a recall back in '09 involving the Power Steering which reflashed the computer. It also changed the timing of the purge valve. Mine used to smell of gas fumes until this recall was performed. (here's the notice from '09):

    http://en-ca.spyder.brp.com/owner-ce...r=2009&Month=7

  19. #19
    Active Member kentuckyguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    western ky
    Posts
    442
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I have a bad gas smell on my 2011 RT when at a stop light or slow in traffic.. Also when I put it away for the day it always has a bad smell... Dealer told me it was the vent tubes....

  20. #20
    Registered Users TuckMiddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Waleska, GA
    Posts
    678
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Fuel smells, etc

    Sure it comes from the vent tube, right in front of the Catalytic converter and exhaust pipe. That is not the cause and there-in lies the problem. Canister accumulates gas and ruins the submerged charcoal that is supposed to help. Purge valve fails (have one on there now) and the gas eventually drips, vapoprizes, etc and you've got a mess. Gas gets in the canister from heat, overfilling, etc.
    BRP says the answer is don't overfill. I don't, I leave it down 3 or 4 inches from the lip. Don't run it too low, it'll heat up and some either boils or vaporizes. Per Scotty's remarks, the vent can't loop up and make the excape a little harder, so it runs out into the canister. You do the canisterectomy and you have not solved the problem, you've just let the gas bypass accumulating in the canister and it doesn't seem as bad. I have the stuff for the c'ectomy and will do that if the new purge valve doesn't do the trick. I've already run the vent line to the back axel area to keep the fuel from the exhaust and CAT.

    Oh well, some day BRP will have an answer, I'm also putting heat shield stuff on the bottom of the tank to try to keep the heat away from the tank.

    Tuck

  21. #21
    Very Active Member Freddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    West Oz
    Posts
    907
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    We sure have a love/hate relationship with our machines.
    The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central VERMONT
    Posts
    20,399
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default FIXING THIS PROBLEM

    I posted a fix for this about a month ago....it's too long for me to re-type....search similar topics it's there.......Mike....

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •