I decided to design my own air filter setup after not getting any satisfaction from one of our vendors on this site. After 14 days of non communication from this company,I cancelled my order and took it upon myself to make my own. I've tried researching the forums and didn't find anything on this. Has anyone done one for themselves? I didn't think it was that hard, the most expensive part of the project was having the aluminum base cut and bored. Around $95 for that, the rest was from alot of stuff I already had around the garage. I did have to go to Home Depot and get the stainless bolts for mounting it. I also didn't like the chessy foam filter the other company used for the air intake from the airbox, so I used the stock hose and fitted a breather filter for better air filtration. After getting done and taking it out for a test run, I was more than pleased with my hard work. All together, I think something like this would cost between $130-$140 if you had to go buy everything, maybe a little more if you use a breather like I did. After finishing, I do see a few things I could have done differently but all in all I'm quite pleased with the way It came out.
Very nice, you fabbed the aluminum block yourself or farmed that out to machine shop?
Nope, farmed it out. Paid extra to get a cleaner cut and make it look better. Could have had a rougher edge for half the cost but I like things just right.
Very nice!
I would like to talk to shop who made the block please.
I've been wanting something like that for direct ram air but had no idea where to turn to.
I hope shop still has the measurement for bolt hole positions.
Plz pm or post shop's number. Thank you.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Does anyone understand the phrase Vortex? When you do, yopu will know why the breather box and filter is the way it is.
Many of us have found improved performance with the stock airbox removed. From what I've read, the negative affect a vortex could have is it can mess up the MAPS sensor readings. The stock spyder does have a short, tapered velocity stack that might be a good idea to keep, but it looks like his stack is a good 1" tall or so, so I think he's probably okay.
I haven't noticed problems running the Evoluzione air intake system, but it has a decent sized replacement stack much like the one shown here.... but they are not tapered like the OEM plastic ones are.
Someone else out here recently made their own airbox setup, and I think they cut the tapered end of the OEM velocity stacks off and mounted PVC piping to them.
Many of us ditch the stock airbox for performance, but another benefit is making it easier to work on the engine, not to mention getting rid of the nasty oil problems inherent to the stock airbox......
Maybe he should install a Tornado ......
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
Really really nice craftsmanship, I salute you fellow " out of the boxer ".......But the throttle bodies are still sucking 275 + degree air......a few months ago I did a cold air intake combined with a green filter or K & N cost about $ 45 to 65......My spyder loves cooler air........Mike.....
Really really nice craftsmanship, I salute you fellow " out of the boxer ".......But the throttle bodies are still sucking 275 + degree air......a few months ago I did a cold air intake combined with a green filter or K & N cost about $ 45 to 65......My spyder loves cooler air........Mike.....
I doubt if removing the stock airbox on an otherwise un-modded stock Spyder engine will realize any performance gains. I have yet to see any dyno runs that prove an airbox removal increases anything.... The stock exhaust is what chokes the Rotax..... I think the typical exhaust and fuel delivery mods that accompany the intake change are what is responsible for any perceived performance gains.
A modern airbox is precisely designed as a 'Hemholtz Resonator', which would actually help to increase air velocity into the intakes. The stock velocity stacks are designed to straighten and smooth the airflow to help achieve maximum cylinder fill at higher RPM's.
I wouldn't get rid of either if I were looking for maximum performance on a large bore, short stroke, high rpm, v-twin engine.....
The OP's custom air filter does look pretty good though, and it will certainly make it easier to service the engine. Nice workmanship!
Yes-- you most certainly do need mods besides just removing the airbox..... a more free-flowing exhaust.... along with a way to get some more gas pumping........ I would NOT recommend removing the airbox unless you at least put a less restrictive pipe on too!
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
I doubt if removing the stock airbox on an otherwise un-modded stock Spyder engine will realize any performance gains. I have yet to see any dyno runs that prove an airbox removal increases anything.... The stock exhaust is what chokes the Rotax..... I think the typical exhaust and fuel delivery mods that accompany the intake change are what is responsible for any perceived performance gains.
A modern airbox is precisely designed as a 'Hemholtz Resonator', which would actually help to increase air velocity into the intakes. The stock velocity stacks are designed to straighten and smooth the airflow to help achieve maximum cylinder fill at higher RPM's.
I wouldn't get rid of either if I were looking for maximum performance on a large bore, short stroke, high rpm, v-twin engine.....
The OP's custom air filter does look pretty good though, and it will certainly make it easier to service the engine. Nice workmanship!
What most people perceive as an improvement in performance is the same thing they perceive with an alternate muffler...more noise! That's not to say that you can't get an increase in horsepower with increased intake and exhaust flow, combined with fuel system and ignition timing mods (and possibly a different cam). Those changes can actually make for less useful horsepower, though, as the torque peak gets sharper and narrower, and the horsepower comes at too high or too narrow an rpm to use or maintain. For a street machine, retaining the engineered airbox has advantages for most owners.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
I decided to design my own air filter setup after not getting any satisfaction from one of our vendors on this site. After 14 days of non communication from this company,I cancelled my order and took it upon myself to make my own. I've tried researching the forums and didn't find anything on this. Has anyone done one for themselves? I didn't think it was that hard, the most expensive part of the project was having the aluminum base cut and bored. Around $95 for that, the rest was from alot of stuff I already had around the garage. I did have to go to Home Depot and get the stainless bolts for mounting it. I also didn't like the chessy foam filter the other company used for the air intake from the airbox, so I used the stock hose and fitted a breather filter for better air filtration. After getting done and taking it out for a test run, I was more than pleased with my hard work. All together, I think something like this would cost between $130-$140 if you had to go buy everything, maybe a little more if you use a breather like I did. After finishing, I do see a few things I could have done differently but all in all I'm quite pleased with the way It came out.
Thanks for all your compliments on my air filter. I'll get around to answering some of your questions a little later. I value all information I receive here and maybe I should have clarified what exactly the kind of mods I have. I'm running a HMF exhaust with a juice box. And giving more airflow to the engine has greatly helped the performance I'm getting. It's running so much better without the factory airbox I can't believe the difference. I've also noticed how much cooler it's running too. Not too mention how much easier it is to work on and a much cleaner look. It's pretty hard to convice me the stock air box packs more air into the engine than what I have now. I did partly copy the design from a vendor on our site but with a few changes. I'll know later after running it for awhile if my changes are working or if I need to go a different route and go with their design which won't be too hard to do.
[QUOTE=Mr Orange;425776] Nice job! Also interested in the source/part number for the smaller filter set up.[/QUOTE
The air filter kit I was going to buy only had a foam filter covering the inlet to the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). This valve allows the ECM to monitor the idle speed when the throttle plates are closed. The valve diverts air from the air filter housing (which I eliminated) thru 2 hoses to bypass the throttle plates. What I did was use the original hose and matched it to a filtered breather. It's made by Mr Gasket, part #2049 or Napa part #735-4436. It has better filtration than the foam and can be washed when it needs to be cleaned.
I'll have to dig through the scrap aluminum at the airpark and find my old stencil, see if the machinists can knock one out real quick. Otherwise, the guy that fabbed this may have a good ebay money maker, a machined block starting point for intake mods. Maybe a few additional versions with stand pipes with a choice of vertical, 45 or 90 degree angles for filter or flex hose attachments. I have my Spyder somewhat back to stock, but I'd really like to dump that airbox. I think I may buy a cheap commuter car/truck for the summer, I'd really like to re-work the Spyder do some track days again.
I'll have to dig through the scrap aluminum at the airpark and find my old stencil, see if the machinists can knock one out real quick. Otherwise, the guy that fabbed this may have a good ebay money maker, a machined block starting point for intake mods. Maybe a few additional versions with stand pipes with a choice of vertical, 45 or 90 degree angles for filter or flex hose attachments. I have my Spyder somewhat back to stock, but I'd really like to dump that airbox. I think I may buy a cheap commuter car/truck for the summer, I'd really like to re-work the Spyder do some track days again.
I was actually the mastermind behind this mounting base. I took a template to the machinist and said this is what I want. The price he quoted me was actually quite low because he did'nt realize how much time was going to be into cutting this. He had to let me have it for that cost but he told me it I wanted another one it would cost somewhat more because of the time needed to cut one. In fact, he's going to let me know tomorrow the best deal he can give me if I order 10 or 20 more. Just going to have to wait and see what kind of deal he can give me for a multiple order of these.
I doubt if removing the stock airbox on an otherwise un-modded stock Spyder engine will realize any performance gains. I have yet to see any dyno runs that prove an airbox removal increases anything.... The stock exhaust is what chokes the Rotax..... I think the typical exhaust and fuel delivery mods that accompany the intake change are what is responsible for any perceived performance gains.
A modern airbox is precisely designed as a 'Hemholtz Resonator', which would actually help to increase air velocity into the intakes. The stock velocity stacks are designed to straighten and smooth the airflow to help achieve maximum cylinder fill at higher RPM's.
I wouldn't get rid of either if I were looking for maximum performance on a large bore, short stroke, high rpm, v-twin engine.....
The OP's custom air filter does look pretty good though, and it will certainly make it easier to service the engine. Nice workmanship!
you ask, you shal receive 110 hp, 87 lb torque. no cat, Magnaflow muffler, pcv with auto tune, k/n filter. 2010 RT. Not as good as I wanted but its all she will give me with out doing head work and cams. Will not do anything more until warranty is out.
I decided to design my own air filter setup after not getting any satisfaction from one of our vendors on this site. After 14 days of non communication from this company,I cancelled my order and took it upon myself to make my own. I've tried researching the forums and didn't find anything on this. Has anyone done one for themselves? I didn't think it was that hard, the most expensive part of the project was having the aluminum base cut and bored. Around $95 for that, the rest was from alot of stuff I already had around the garage. I did have to go to Home Depot and get the stainless bolts for mounting it. I also didn't like the chessy foam filter the other company used for the air intake from the airbox, so I used the stock hose and fitted a breather filter for better air filtration. After getting done and taking it out for a test run, I was more than pleased with my hard work. All together, I think something like this would cost between $130-$140 if you had to go buy everything, maybe a little more if you use a breather like I did. After finishing, I do see a few things I could have done differently but all in all I'm quite pleased with the way It came out.
What is the thickness and diminsion of the aluminum plate, Diameter of aluminum circle, brand of air filter?
Homemade air filter kit
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In the twisties I was playing the tart...
Originally Posted by AMTJIM
What is the other filter in your last pic for ? How much louder is it . Does it run any leaner ?
Happy 
Owner
6 states down 42 states to go 
Great job, what did you do with the crankcase breather tube. Is that what the small filter is attached too?
Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders 
What most people perceive as an improvement in performance is the same thing they perceive with an alternate muffler...more noise! That's not to say that you can't get an increase in horsepower with increased intake and exhaust flow, combined with fuel system and ignition timing mods (and possibly a different cam). Those changes can actually make for less useful horsepower, though, as the torque peak gets sharper and narrower, and the horsepower comes at too high or too narrow an rpm to use or maintain. For a street machine, retaining the engineered airbox has advantages for most owners.
make them we all need it 
