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Very Active Member
The time for you to be ticked off was long overdue friend. Sorry to hear about your troubles.
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I can almost understand it... They probably just put the jumper where the book said to...
It's just that I had such a time getting it moved to where I wanted it...
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Very Active Member
I new there was someting going on when I read the title. Sorry to hear about the glitch. Keep us posted. You have been way more low key about this than I would have.
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Very Active Member
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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I took my Spyder in for service and they reconnected the fuel and temp gauges that I had disconnected. So now I make sure to let them know that this was intentional on my part. I guess you should have given them a list of your modifications.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
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Registered Users
Jeez Bob....if it weren't for bad luck.........! Sorry to hear this man.
I think they should have made a drawing of the wiring and put it back the way you had it, but that's just me.
That NEW guy you mentioned might not be such a bad idea.
'09 SM5, Hindle pipe, K&N, sport rack, backrest, Givi shield EVO swaybar, Symtec grip heaters, Spyderpops belt guard....some other stuff.
Don't worry about the bullet with your name on it,
Be afraid of the one saying 'To Whom it May Concern'!
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The new isn't in PA. is he.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
...you could move it to a different position to give you the additional function of a warning light in your instrument panel if a lid wasn't shut properly... I had turned that on, and they just shut it back off!
There's no missing your consternation, and rightly so, Bob, BUT my 2011 RT is jumped (is that the correct verb?) to show an open lid on the display by default, exactly what you went to such trouble to have on your machine. Why would BRP have the unclosed lid warning facility unjumped, having included it in the RT wiring in the 1st place? Very strange behaviour, I think.
Don't you just love Grandmothers???
Yeah, my favorite one had a few straggly white hairs on her chin and my mother noticed me staring at them one day. After the Old One had departed she told me it was impolite to stare and I wasn't ever to do it again. The next time she showed up I kept my eyes off of her face. She always had a few sweets about her person for my little brother and me and when she invited me to take one from the paper bag in her hand she whispered, "Have you lost interest in my hairy chin, Geoffrey?'
It wasn't until much later in life during my first visit to a strip club that I discovered that there are no absolutes where good manners are concerned. Staring was expected.
Last edited by GeoffCee; 03-02-2012 at 06:24 PM.
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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Motorbike Professor
Bob, no surprises as far as I can see. If they had to replace the wiring harness, they would have had the same problem again, unless BRP changed their build sheets and specs. As I recall, you lost the original jumper and inserted a wire jumper. If they used the same harness, they may have discarded the jumper as an unknown...or it could have even been knocked loose in the accident. This is one of the hidden perils in correcting a warranty problem yourself...the dealer never learns how things are supposed to be.
Think of it this way...you can probably do the job in halfthe time with half the amount of cuss words this time around.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Thanks; but the Missus got nervous when that blue streak started and forbade the use of those words in any County in which she resides...
I can understand HOW it happened; I just don't like THAT it happened. It's not entirely their fault for this one; I should have pointed out this modification to them when I dropped off the bike!
Keep on keeping on Bob!! Hopefully your problems will be just a bad memory in the very near future.
Corbin Bags and Corbin trailer hitch
Shark 250 Watt Sound System with 2 speakers in front 1 in back
Kurakyn Highway Foot Pegs
Garmin nuvi 1450 LMT with Ram Mount
F1 Queen Slider Windshield
Power Outlet
Shark communtication system
SDC L.E.D. 6" Tail/Brake Light
Gremlin Bell from Tail of the Dragon ride
Cortech tank bag
Kewlmetal adjustable handlebars
Elkas Shocks all the way around
Utopia Backrest
Love my Spyder!!!
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Registered Users
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?30140-So-is-the-Cargo-Door-Open-a-j
I found this from another thread.....
There's a jumper mis-wired.
This misplaced jumper causes the "Rear Cargo Door Open" not to be displayed and the useless air shock graphic to be displayed on the multifunction display.
It drove me nuts until I tracked down the bad jumper.
Here's how to fix it:
The jumper is located under the switch blank in the row of switches controlling the Brake/Hood Release and Heated Grips.
The block is under the fourth cover over if you count the Brake/Hood Release as #1.
It's actually where the rocker switch for the power air shock thingee would be if we lived in the high rent RT-S district.
Use a small screwdriver as a pry bar, be careful not to scratch the plastic around it.
Pull the cover off with your fingers. It can be a bit tight if it's never been removed.
You'll see a switch block hanging there.
The jumper is a white plastic block that plugs into the connector block.
It should have the jumper across two terminal holes in the block.
The correct location of the jumper should be between #3 & #6
For some reason the numbers go
9 6 5 4 7
10 3 2 1 8
To help you in identification Pin 9 & 4 do not have terminals in them. They are blank.
My jumper was between 4 & 1.
When re-installing the switch blank make certain the switch block is locked into the blank before you push it all the way down.
In a related note -
Most of these Spyders also left the factory without the passenger heated grips connected.
Hot Wheels loves to ROCK!
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I remember all of that...
Have you ever tried to remove one of those covers?? I had 2 members here trying to talk me through it and it was a real pain in the . After I destroyed the cover... Steve sent me one that he had removed as a replacement. Roger talked me through the placing of the jumper. Trouble is; that block is located just far enough down in a hole that you can't get to it! I ended up borrowing a couple of forceps; one to grab and stabilize the block,m and one to move the jumper... But it wasn't a pleasant time in the Denman household while the bike was apart...
Bob, I'm thinking the next bike you get should be a Naked one.
Not you the only the bike! [please]
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I remember all of that...
Have you ever tried to remove one of those covers?? I had 2 members here trying to talk me through it and it was a real pain in the . After I destroyed the cover... Steve sent me one that he had removed as a replacement. Roger talked me through the placing of the jumper. Trouble is; that block is located just far enough down in a hole that you can't get to it! I ended up borrowing a couple of forceps; one to grab and stabilize the block,m and one to move the jumper... But it wasn't a pleasant time in the Denman household while the bike was apart...
Just something to consider Bob, I got some 12" hemo-stats, one curved and one straight, off ebay for about $15 for the pair....use them constantly. Might be worth it for you to have some around.
'09 SM5, Hindle pipe, K&N, sport rack, backrest, Givi shield EVO swaybar, Symtec grip heaters, Spyderpops belt guard....some other stuff.
Don't worry about the bullet with your name on it,
Be afraid of the one saying 'To Whom it May Concern'!
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Originally Posted by dannymax
Just something to consider Bob, I got some 12" hemo-stats, one curved and one straight, off ebay for about $15 for the pair....use them constantly. Might be worth it for you to have some around.
What he said!
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Very Active Member
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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Very Active Member
Last edited by GeoffCee; 03-05-2012 at 04:19 AM.
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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Originally Posted by GeoffCee
Attached is a photo of the Carling tool which does two jobs. The U-shaped end removes the actuator, or rocker part of the switch.
The other end gets shoved down the narrow side of the switch, (you need 2 of these tools, one for each side). The switch or switch blank is then removed from the top. The tools work together to compress the catches which are holding the switch, or blank, in position.
carling-switch-tool.jpg
Where have you been all of my life???
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Very Active Member
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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