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Very Active Member
How do shops "clean the throttle body"
Every 6K miles the book calls for inspect/clean the throttle body. I'd like to know what they use and how they do this service. Is this something worthwhile, what with all the throttle body failures we've been having?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Do they in fact actually clean them??????
Would some sort of fuel system cleaner work as an alternative?
Thats what most shops do.
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On a few of my cars the crud would build up and cause the throttle valve to stick closed. That made for jackrabbit starts from lights, etc. I cleaned them with spray carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. Fuel additives wouldn't help this but would help the fuel passages. This was more like a 50K mile interval. Don't know why the Spyder would be any worse except for the oil they tend to suck up into the airbox.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ulflyer
Every 6K miles the book calls for inspect/clean the throttle body. I'd like to know what they use and how they do this service. Is this something worthwhile, what with all the throttle body failures we've been having?
Buy the repair manual at http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Can-Am-...item3cc269d0d9
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Very Active Member
I was iinterested to know about this, so I took a look at YouTube.
It doesn't feature the Spyder but the principle is the same.
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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Very Active Member
Geoff: good video and timely for my auto as well. Soon as it warms a bit I want to clean the TB on the Altima. Not sure I want to attempt doing it on the RT.
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RT-S PE#0060
I would be very careful spraying into the throttle body that is a liquid and it wont compress if you tried to start the engine with liquid in cylinders expect a bent con rod or cracked piston.Best way is to spray air intake cleaner on a clean shop rag on the end of a wooden dowel and wipe inside tb with throttle open hope this helps
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Motorbike Professor
The manual gives the following procedure:
1. Remove upper side panels and central panel;
2. Remove air filter housing cover;
3. Check throttle body cleanliness with a flashlight. Also check when throttle plates are fully opened;
4. Inspect throttle body bore, throttle plate edge, air orifice; Look for dirt, oily surfaces, carbon deposits on throttle plates and surrounding bores;
5. Clean as necessary using a throttle body cleaner such as Gunk Intake Medic;
Use only an appropriate throttle body cleaner that will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor, and catalytic converter. Do not spray any cleaning fluid on the Electronic Throttle Actuator.
6. To avoid getting dirt into engine, spray cleaner on a clean rag then rub against throttle plates and bores. A toothbrush also work well;
7. Hold throttle fully open to reach all surfaces;
8. To remove residual dirt, spray cleaner on (wiped) throttle plates and bores;
9. Spray cleaner inside air orifices.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
I am guessing they left that out due to the pre-medication proceedure of two martinis to be ingested by the mechanic prior to attempting the procedure. .
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
The manual gives the following procedure:
5. Clean as necessary using a throttle body cleaner such as Gunk Intake Medic;
Use only an appropriate throttle body cleaner that will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor, and catalytic converter. Do not spray any cleaning fluid on the Electronic Throttle Actuator.
6. To avoid getting dirt into engine, spray cleaner on a clean rag then rub against throttle plates and bores. A toothbrush also work well;
7. Hold throttle fully open to reach all surfaces;
8. To remove residual dirt, spray cleaner on (wiped) throttle plates and bores;
9. Spray cleaner inside air orifices.
This sorta implies that Gunk Intake Medic is an appropriate cleaner, and that being so, it will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor or catalytic converter but like all cleaning fluid, it should be kept away from the Electronic Throttle Actuator. Is that how you read it, Scotty?
Last edited by GeoffCee; 02-21-2012 at 08:22 PM.
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by GeoffCee
This sorta implies that Gunk Intake Medic is an appropriate cleaner, and that being so, it will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor or catalytic converter but like all cleaning fluid, it should be kept away from the Electronic Throttle Actuator. Is that how you read it, Scotty?
Yes. There are others, too. They usually have text on the can that says they are safe for o-rings, sensors, etc.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Yes. There are others, too. They usually have text on the can that says they are safe for o-rings, sensors, etc.
Thanks. In just over a year my RT will be out of its 2-year guarantee so I've started gathering technical info for when I start my own nuts and bolts servicing. Every little helps!
2011 RT-S SE5, Acumen Tempest Cat-1 Alarm, SmoothSpyder Belt Tensioner,
Autocom Super Pro Auto, Garmin Zumo 550 BT, 10amp Socket, Front Fender LED's,
Grip Puppies, Spyderpop Belt Guard, Nautilus Horn, Shortee Antenna, BajaRon's Swaybar,
Cree LED Day Running Lights.
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