Elka Stage 1 Front & Rear Shock Install on 2011 RT LTD

[Hokiev]

This is the rookie version of installing Elka's on a 2011 RT based on my experience.

The key to this is having the correct tools to begin with. I found out the hard way after getting through the right front quickly, I hit a roadblock on the left side because the tools I had on hand would not work. There was less room on the left side to maneuver wrenches and sockets and I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out how to loosen the bolt. So off to Sears I went and got the correct tools.

What you need (or at least what will make things easier):

• Two 15 mm sockets, one deep well & one standard.
• 12"-18" socket wrench extension.
• Low profile socket wrench. The two I had on hand were too thick at the head and there was not enough room to fit when doing the left front.
• 15 mm offset wrench. Again, did not need this for the right side, but without one I found it nearly impossible to get to the bolt left side and it makes it real easy to get to the right back bolt on the rear shock from below.

The front shocks are real simple to remove and install and pretty straight forward. When doing the left side, I found using the offset wrench on the front side nut and the low profile socket wrench on the rear bolt worked best.

The rear shock can be done without taking off any covers (as per Len at Cowtown). However, it is much easier if you don't have a lift to stand under, to remove the left side covers.

When doing the rear, per repair manual, under the rear seat near brake reservoir, there is a valve to release the air pressure in the ACS (Air Controlled Suspension) system. There is a silver cap you remove and then insert a screwdriver tip to release the pressure.

Next, remove the upper ACS control arm nut and bolt. This is located on the left side just to the inside of the drive belt. (Not sure why this has to be removed, but that is what the repair manual indicates)

With side covers removed, you can then use your extension on the socket wrench and get to the left side bolt on the top of the shock. While laying on the left side I was able reach up from the bottom with the offset 15 mm wrench and could then easily loosen the nut. Once bolt is removed, raise the Spyder off the ground to allow the shock to come free at the top. (Only needs to come up an inch or so)

Next loosen and remove the lower bolt and remove shock.

To install new shock, install spacers and install lower bolt. I did not tighten at this time.
I then lined up the top of shock and slowly lowered Spyder until holes lined up.
Insert bolt and nut. I took some paper towel and pressed the nut into my offset wrench which allowed me to hold wrench up to bolt and hold against it so I could tighten with socket wrench. I believe all bolts were torqued to 35 ft.lbs.

Reinstall ACS bolt and nut.
Reinstall covers.

Enjoy the ride.

I had read all the rave reviews about adding Elka's on the 2011 Syders even though they had improved the shocks over the 2010's. Was not sure it would really make that much of a difference.

But I decided to pull the trigger and although I have only taken it for a brief ride, the difference was amazing.

Thanks to all the previous posters for your tips and suggestions along the way.

[NancysToy]

You remove the ACS sensor link bolt to prevent damaging the ACS sensor, link, or bracket when the Spyder is jacked up, and to avoid the possible need for recalibration.