Motor Mount Clearance Spec and Shims

[gypsy_100]

My backordered shims arrived this week. No snow yet so I trundled on down to the dealer and had them installed. I also got a copy of the BRP Technical Service Tip (no number – I guess it’s just a “tip” not a bulletin). I will summarize the info in the “tip” here:

If the customer complains of vibration, first check belt tension. Second, check the clearance between the left-side front engine mount and the frame. The BRP photo shows the same area shown in my photos below. Use a 0.04” or 1mm feeler gauge. If you can get this gauge to pass thru, then everything here is OK and not a source of vibration. If the clearance is less than 0.04”, then install the shims (0.08” or 2mm – part number 707001074).

Rough summary of procedure: loosen drive belt, loosen rear engine support bolts, remove front engine support nuts, remove link rod from front engine mount, use pry bar between frame and engine support to lift engine, insert shims, align engine with alignment pin, install new nuts on front supports and torque to 35 lbf-ft (48 N-m), re-torque rear bolts to same value, adjust belt tension, reinstall everything else you took off. My tech turned in a warranty claim for just under 5 hours so it took him some serious time. First one he ever did.

End result: Based on a 250-mile test ride, the change for me was a subtle improvement. Mostly in the 4-5k rpm range where the engine vibrates the most when under load (at least that’s where mine does). In that range it’s noticeably better and makes that range much more usable. Otherwise, no noticeable change. But… I did have some small clearance beforehand – about 0.01” or so based on my approx measurements. I didn’t realize there would be such a tight spec (0.04”) or I would have measured it more precisely. So my engine was not touching all the time, probably just when really rocking, and that’s the improvement I notice. If other engines are actually resting on the frame, I can imagine the improvement would be more dramatic as Spyder Jeff has indicated.

More background and good photo from Sypder Jeff of engine mount viewed from above can be found in the earlier thread here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ount-Clearance



Motor Mount 2.jpgMotor Mount 1.jpg

[ulflyer]

I was at my dealer this week for a new tire and asked that they check the motor mount to which they replied it was a 3 hour job @ $90 per and if there wasn't an issue, then the cost was on me. I told them to forget it and if the perceived vibe broke something they could cover it under warranty. Svc mngr said that sounded reasonable to him!

[NancysToy]

I was at my dealer this week for a new tire and asked that they check the motor mount to which they replied it was a 3 hour job @ $90 per and if there wasn't an issue, then the cost was on me. I told them to forget it and if the perceived vibe broke something they could cover it under warranty. Svc mngr said that sounded reasonable to him!

They are doing you a bit of a disservice. Replacing the shim is, indeed, a three hour job or better, but checking it is a much shorter time. The body panels still need to be removed to do it best, but running a feeler gauge through there takes just a few minutes at that point. After the clearance is measured, the determination is made as to whether it needs to be re-shimmed or not. Quoting the flat rate for the entire job, just to check, is just not right! That's like quoting 1.5 hours for an oil change, just to read the dipstick. Better put this dealer on your naughty list.

[gypsy_100]

The panels that need to be removed are the same as for changing the oil. If you use this shop for oil changes, suggest next oil change, have them check the clearance -- for free. Takes a few seconds as Scotty said. I checked the clearance myself at my last oil change and that's how I found the problem. I told the dealer what I had found and showed him a photo. He called BRP who sent him the tech tip and he ordered up the shims, no questions asked. Great cooperation.

[ulflyer]

I do my own oil changes and if the motor mount can be reached without major contortion I should be able to do it too. Thanks for the tip. I'll be doing the oil in another month or so.

[ulflyer]

I can't quite tell from the above pics where the spot is located that needs to be measured. Is is pretty obvious once the panels are removed?

I still have about another 1000 miles to go before I do the oil and can then attempt to do the check myself. I have a good feeler gauge and assuming I locate the place I can take a pic if necessary.

[Max LTD]

They are doing you a bit of a disservice. Replacing the shim is, indeed, a three hour job or better, but checking it is a much shorter time. The body panels still need to be removed to do it best, but running a feeler gauge through there takes just a few minutes at that point. After the clearance is measured, the determination is made as to whether it needs to be re-shimmed or not. Quoting the flat rate for the entire job, just to check, is just not right! That's like quoting 1.5 hours for an oil change, just to read the dipstick. Better put this dealer on your naughty list.

Just wondering if with our Serial number, there is a way to find out from BRP if our Spyder was produced with or without a shim?

[gypsy_100]

Just wondering if with our Serial number, there is a way to find out from BRP if our Spyder was produced with or without a shim?

Your profile shows you own a 2010. If that's correct, you do not have shims. Late 2011 and all 2012's have them factory installed. But you may not need them. It depends on the clearance in your particular bike.

[Max LTD]

Your profile shows you own a 2010. If that's correct, you do not have shims. Late 2011 and all 2012's have them factory installed. But you may not need them. It depends on the clearance in your particular bike.

My apology, I now have a 2011 RT Limited.

[gypsy_100]

Here's a couple photos of the shims installed on my RT. Look in from the right side along the front of the radiator. You can just see the top section of the thick rubber motor mount thru the plastic mesh. The motor mount normally rests on the frame, which is black, and the anodized nut holding the motor mount to the frame can be seen underneath the frame. In my case, there is now a shim between the rubber motor mount and the frame -- seen in the detail photo as a shiny edge between the rubber mount and the black frame.

General View.jpgDetail.jpg

Hope this helps. As I said before, the critical item is whether you have adequate clearance, not whether you have shims. If you have adequate clearance, you will not be getting abnormal vibration from the engine cradle hitting the frame. These photos do not show the area where the clearance would be measured. They just show an easily visible area where the shims can be seen.