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Active Member
Brake Failure
Fam, Riddle me this? While riding my bike and I stop at a light/sign or just let the bike idle to warm up, my "Brake Failure" indicator comes on? When I proceed down the road, the indicator goes off until I stop again? What's causing this to happen? Is it a bad or worn sensor? Please advise and thanks in advance?
1bad
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SpyderLovers Founder
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Active Member
That was the first thing I checked and all fluids were good. Thanks!
1bad
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Registered User
Originally Posted by Lamonster
Check your fluid level.
Seen this many times before. If you check the active codes on the cluster you are likely to get C0049, which is low brake fluid. Check the reservoirs to be sure both are in spec - actually near the max mark - these sensors are very sensitive.
Cheers.
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Wife has a 2008 RS SM5...same problem. Fluid level perfect. Fluid condition poor! Had to have brakes bled to fix problem. Threw on new pads at same time. BUDS must be used when bleeding brakes and it is expensive. How old is the fluid?
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Active Member
My is an 08, SM5 as well and the fluids were changed about 1800 miles ago. But will double check next week after vacation. Thanks for the feedback and Happy Holidays to those who responded & to future responders.
1bad
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Originally Posted by 1badspyder
That was the first thing I checked and all fluids were good. Thanks!
Check the brake fluid carefully, It is very sensitive, Sometimes it looks full, but a few more drops is needed.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by boborgera
Check the brake fluid carefully, It is very sensitive, Sometimes it looks full, but a few more drops is needed.
+1
Happy owner of Silver PE #1232
All The Gear All The Time - ATGATT
Gulf Coast SpyderRyders
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Very Active Member
I had this happen a couple times going down Hatchers Pass (a 10 mile steep incline). Pulled over, shut spyder off so system could re-boot, restarted. No problems.
Fluid level seems to be the most likely culprit though.
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Active Member
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As a former computer programmer, server administrator, and helpdesk technician, I am terrified to know I have purchased a motor vehicle I will have to let reboot
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by zrc
As a former computer programmer, server administrator, and helpdesk technician, I am terrified to know I have purchased a motor vehicle I will have to let reboot
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Don't worry. There won't be any paranoia until after your first LIMP MODE experience!!!
Spydersense
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Had same problem a while back...put between 4 and 5 tablespoons of brake fluid in and problem went away....apparently it doesn't take much to set off the alert!
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Very Active Member
BRAKE FLUID
To BOYALLIE someone here just changed their brake fluid ? and didn't have to go the B.U.D.S route and didn't have any problems ....but I don't remember who !!!....Mike...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
To BOYALLIE someone here just changed their brake fluid ? and didn't have to go the B.U.D.S route and didn't have any problems ....but I don't remember who !!!....Mike...
From memory, there are 2 ways to bleed the brakes without BUDS. 1 - tie the switch by the pedal so it doesn't move when the pedal is fully depressed, or 2 - bleed with the key in the off position.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by zrc
As a former computer programmer, server administrator, and helpdesk technician, I am terrified to know I have purchased a motor vehicle I will have to let reboot
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I was into computers in the late 1970's. I remember when the first PC's stopped working, pull the plug and rebooted. I do reboot my cars when I clean the battery terminals every three years and they do run better. I like to have B.U.D.S. then I can do all the work myself and train others. That's IMHO.
Mike
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Why Budds?
I have done lots of vehicles including a Mercedies that has a sofisticated stability control without hooking up a computer so why does a Spyder need it to just bleed the brakes. I use the mighty vac system to pull fluid through the lines and the key is always off so the computer does not know what is going on. I haven't done it yet on my RT and I would ask my tech how much $ first but think it should be simple?
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Tonga
I have done lots of vehicles including a Mercedies that has a sofisticated stability control without hooking up a computer so why does a Spyder need it to just bleed the brakes. I use the mighty vac system to pull fluid through the lines and the key is always off so the computer does not know what is going on. I haven't done it yet on my RT and I would ask my tech how much $ first but think it should be simple?
Many vehicles require the use of a computer systems attached to bleed the brakes. This is especially true on vehicles with dual braking systems. The Spyder has a single system, of course. The work-around for these vehicles is to bleed the brakes manually, without turning on the ignition. Most of the time that will be successful, but be aware that the VCM may not be completely purged and bled without attaching BUDS, The system pressure cannot be validated without BUDS, either.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Many vehicles require the use of a computer systems attached to bleed the brakes. This is especially true on vehicles with dual braking systems. The Spyder has a single system, of course. The work-around for these vehicles is to bleed the brakes manually, without turning on the ignition. Most of the time that will be successful, but be aware that the VCM may not be completely purged and bled without attaching BUDS, The system pressure cannot be validated without BUDS, either.
Your are right that bleeding manually will not completely bleed the entire system but I think the small amount that is in the VCM is not an issue once mixed with fresh fluid. The first thing I did with my Benz was the get the ABS and Stability control to click in on a rainy day to just get the control to open the closed circuits. I would think not turning the key on or pumping the brake pedal, just using the mighty vac would pull clean fluid in and through the system without any issues but and I say but, I will check with my tech guy at the dealer to see how much he would charge to do it. I have read lots about many hours to do a 15 or 20 minute job once the equipment is setup. Our dealers in Canada charge about $100.00 per hour. For that I will try it myself first and if I screw it up will trailer it there to be repaired if necessary.
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by HDXBONES
Bleeding and replacing the fluid are 2 separate things. Bleeding is done to evacuate any trapped air pockets throughout the entire brake system. Ignoring the VCM is not bleeding it.
While your method, or other 'key-off' methods would be marginal work arounds, the only way to accurately, completely, and thoroughly replace and/or bleed the brake system is with the use of BUDS. Unfortunately.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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I do not disagree with what you say but I must ask, if I use the mighty vac to extract the old fluid out through the bleed line then should it be free of air as long as the master is kept full?? It has worked for me a thousand times.
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Brake bleeding
When I installed a hand brake system on my '08 Spyder, I accidently got air in the system. Disconnected the battery, hooked up a vacuum pump and bled the brakes till the air was out, took a ride on a grassey area to check out the ABS. All worked just fine and has been, for the last 500 miles. Mick
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
What is not clear to me is where the air was introduced into the system. If you installed a hydraulic front brake and that is where the air and bleeding took place then it is understandable that the ABS, etc., were not affected and thus no BUDS or other Spyder system steps were necessary.
If the bleeding involved the Spyder hydraulic braking system then it is significant that BUDS were not necessary.
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Originally Posted by zrc
As a former computer programmer, server administrator, and helpdesk technician, I am terrified to know I have purchased a motor vehicle I will have to let reboot
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Maybe they need to put some Mac software in there to keep it running.
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