There's probably a tread for this but the other day I was going out to meet some friends Sunday and stopped to get gas, then the Spyder wouldn't turn on. It started clicking when I'd hit the ignition and never turn over. Had to use BRP Roadside Assistance for the first time since purchase in Jan. 2010 to get it back to the house. Any thoughts? Dead battery perhaps?
This is a sign of a low battery. The battery could be bad, the terminals could be loose or dirty, or you could have a charging system problem. The first thing to do is clean and tighten the connection at the battery (inside the bodywork), not the jumper connections under the seat. Charge the battery, then let it stand off the charger for a couple of hours to overnight. The battery voltage should remain above 12.6 volts. You can also do a rudmentary load test on the battery, if the spyder will crank after charging. Hold the throttle wide open to prevent starting, and check the voltage while cranking. It should remain above 10.0 volts. You can also use the multimeter to test the charging voltage. The output should be 13-14 volts at 4,000 rpm. Your dealer can perform these tests if you can't manage or can't find someone to assist.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
I stopped at a pullout to watch the sunset over the Potomac one evening, and had the same thing happen to me. Luckily, some bikers (of the two wheel variety) stopped to render aid. One of them swapped in his battery to get me started, and reinstalled my battery to get me home. Needless to say, I invited them to dinner the following week.
If this should happen again, you can swap in a battery to get you started; it will at least get you home, or a repair facility.
There's probably a tread for this but the other day I was going out to meet some friends Sunday and stopped to get gas, then the Spyder wouldn't turn on. It started clicking when I'd hit the ignition and never turn over. Had to use BRP Roadside Assistance for the first time since purchase in Jan. 2010 to get it back to the house. Any thoughts? Dead battery perhaps?
The Spyder charging system really isn't "unique". The magneto (permanent magnet alternator) system is used on a variety of vehicles. The system is different from an automotive system, but similar to many motorcycles. The Spyder does charge at low rpm, but the output is limited, so it will not overcome a heavy amp load. The system puts out about half its rated capacity at 4,000 rpm.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
I stopped at a pullout to watch the sunset over the Potomac one evening, and had the same thing happen to me. Luckily, some bikers (of the two wheel variety) stopped to render aid. One of them swapped in his battery to get me started, and reinstalled my battery to get me home. Needless to say, I invited them to dinner the following week.
If this should happen again, you can swap in a battery to get you started; it will at least get you home, or a repair facility.
You could also just use a set of jumper cables hooked to a battery. If you do this with a car make sure the car is off.
The Spyder charging system really isn't "unique". The magneto (permanent magnet alternator) system is used on a variety of vehicles. The system is different from an automotive system, but similar to many motorcycles. The Spyder does charge at low rpm, but the output is limited, so it will not overcome a heavy amp load. The system puts out about half its rated capacity at 4,000 rpm.
Scotty while what you posted is true, the Spyder is "unique" in that if you are use to riding a bike at a lower rpm because the output voltage for both charging AND operating the electronics isn't there.
Also, IF a person is use to riding a bike with an alternator with a regulator/rectifier combination low rpm was not an issue for maintaining a fully charge battery (i.e. Harley Davidson). And, if an owner decides to add additional lights then guess what? MORE watts are needed and it will come from the battery 1st (higher voltage output) and then the charging system (when the battery drops below charging voltage).
I am only addressing that rider "style" may have to be altered to keep ones battery charged for starting (i.e. shifting & riding @ higher rpms).
It happened to me too once, turned out I forgot to put it on Neutral before shut off. It would not start on the 1st unless you depress and hold down the brake pedal while starting.
There's probably a tread for this but the other day I was going out to meet some friends Sunday and stopped to get gas, then the Spyder wouldn't turn on. It started clicking when I'd hit the ignition and never turn over. Had to use BRP Roadside Assistance for the first time since purchase in Jan. 2010 to get it back to the house. Any thoughts? Dead battery perhaps?
Thanks,
Brian
TreeHillSpyder
Wilmington, NC
Clicking, = Weak or Dead Battery.
Let us know the outcome.
Thanks for the feedback. I have the Spyder on a trickle-charger for the night. In the morning, I'm going to try and turn it over. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to get it towed back to the dealership and have them test/switch the battery, and also check the rest of the electrical system.
Thanks for the feedback. I have the Spyder on a trickle-charger for the night. In the morning, I'm going to try and turn it over. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to get it towed back to the dealership and have them test/switch the battery, and also check the rest of the electrical system.
Will let everyone know how that goes.
Thanks again for the feedback,
Brian
TreeHillSpyder
Wilmington, NC
If you did not clean and tighten the battery connectons, the charger may be in vain. A battery with loose/corroded terminals won't accept a charge well. Rememebr that the battery may still be bad, even if it will start with a fresh charge. It also has to be able to retain a charge.
-Scotty 2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine) 2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes 2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
A few of the guys from my dealer here, Wilmington PowerSports, came down and took the bike back to the shop. After being on the trickle charger all night, it fired up this afternoon without incident. They still wanted to check and see if there is a problem with the charging system or a dead cell in the battery, so we'll see how it goes. It would be nice to have it back soon.
Scotty while what you posted is true, the Spyder is "unique" in that if you are use to riding a bike at a lower rpm because the output voltage for both charging AND operating the electronics isn't there.
Also, IF a person is use to riding a bike with an alternator with a regulator/rectifier combination low rpm was not an issue for maintaining a fully charge battery (i.e. Harley Davidson). And, if an owner decides to add additional lights then guess what? MORE watts are needed and it will come from the battery 1st (higher voltage output) and then the charging system (when the battery drops below charging voltage).
I am only addressing that rider "style" may have to be altered to keep ones battery charged for starting (i.e. shifting & riding @ higher rpms).
Another good reason to keep the rpms up, as it should be ridden anyways.
Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders Amsoil, 10w40, Rons performance wires
The Spyder is all healed up. Now has a new battery and fires up like a champ. Apparently the old battery wasn't holding a charge well and I hadn't been using my trickle charger regularly, so the inevitable happened. Apparently another Ryder here in town experienced the same thing in the last two weeks.
I carry a neat little set of jumper cables called "The Bitty Booster Cable" by Northeastern. You can probably Google a source for them. They come in a neat little 7 inch diameter bag that is about 2 inches thick. I used them once to save a scooter that had been left with the ignition turned on and so had a dead battery.
SE5 Dies at the Gas Station after fill up
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I stopped at a pullout to watch the sunset over the Potomac one evening, and had the same thing happen to me. Luckily, some bikers (of the two wheel variety) stopped to render aid. One of them swapped in his battery to get me started, and reinstalled my battery to get me home. Needless to say, I invited them to dinner the following week.
Originally Posted by TreeHillSpyder
Hindle exhaust, Kewlmetal K&N intake + prefilter, Kuryakyn widow pegs, Kuryakyn grips, Madstad 20in. windshield, Juice Box, 02Modifier, Kewlmetal backrest and carrier, missing air dam, missing belt shield, 1" riser, Kewlmetal handlebar risers,Evoluzione sway bar, Street Magic/Day Runner Pucks, Glo Riders 
