12 Miles & Tires & Shocks

[RJB]

Have right at 12,000 miles on a 2009 RS and its time for service and a few other things. Before I schedule the service can you guys help me out with a couple of questions?

Service - does everything on the list need to be done or can something like valve check be left off to reduce cost?
Front tires - fronts were wearing on the inside so at 8k I had them swapped to get some more miles but at 12k they are done. Sounds like a toe-in issue? Also, is there a good alternative to the Kenda? I see the Kuhmo recommended for the rear but haven't seen mention of a different brand for the front.
Shocks - have read that the 2010 RT shocks improve the ride. Is this for the 2010 shocks only, not the 2011 RT?

Thanks in advance.
BobSled

[Sarge707]

Have right at 12,000 miles on a 2009 RS and its time for service and a few other things. Before I schedule the service can you guys help me out with a couple of questions?

Service - does everything on the list need to be done or can something like valve check be left off to reduce cost?
Most wait till 24 to 36,000 to have the valves checked.
Front tires - fronts were wearing on the inside so at 8k I had them swapped to get some more miles but at 12k they are done. Sounds like a toe-in issue? Also, is there a good alternative to the Kenda? I see the Kuhmo recommended for the rear but haven't seen mention of a different brand for the front.
Shocks - have read that the 2010 RT shocks improve the ride. Is this for the 2010 shocks only, not the 2011 RT?
For the most benefit you want the 2011 RT shocks.
Thanks in advance.
BobSled

I will only use Kenda tires on the Spyder, but thats just me?

[retread]

Sounds like a toe-out issue with the tires, I've got over 20K on my originals, probably another 10 or so to go. The RT shocks can improve the ride and handling, they did for me.
I don't have experience with car tires on my Spyder, lots of people here have them, I'd guess a directional tread in sizes close to what's there will work, but somebody else is going to have to take it from there.

john

[BajaRon]

Have right at 12,000 miles on a 2009 RS and its time for service and a few other things. Before I schedule the service can you guys help me out with a couple of questions?

Service - does everything on the list need to be done or can something like valve check be left off to reduce cost?
Front tires - fronts were wearing on the inside so at 8k I had them swapped to get some more miles but at 12k they are done. Sounds like a toe-in issue? Also, is there a good alternative to the Kenda? I see the Kuhmo recommended for the rear but haven't seen mention of a different brand for the front.
Shocks - have read that the 2010 RT shocks improve the ride. Is this for the 2010 shocks only, not the 2011 RT?

Thanks in advance.
BobSled

The 2010 RT shocks are a big improvement over the stock RS Shocks. I've heard the 2011 RT shocks are too stiff for the lighter RS. Of course they can't hold a candle to the Elkas so that's a value to benefit call.

There are several good alternative tires for the Spyder. I'm currently running the Toyo Proxies T1R tire. Brand new it was lighter than the worn out Kenda stock tire, has 2 more tread belts (which gives you a flatter footprint, and it was less expensive. But there are other choices as well. Some think car tires are a good idea (including me) and some don't. But that is the case with almost everything.

You most likely do have an alignment problem. Check to be sure your tie-rod ball joints are in good condition before you do anything else. I had great front tire wear for about 20,000 miles. Then I started to get inside wear and found that my tie-rod ball joints were trash.

[wyliec]

I've heard the 2011 RT shocks are too stiff for the lighter RS.

I have the 2011 RT shocks/springs on my 2008 GS and they are just fine.

[fastfraser]

I would skip the valve check until 25,000 miles unless you are having an issue ( I think BRP changed to 25k as well) I also like Ron ran a TOYO on the rear as it will run flatter and last longer. The stock rear tends to ware in the center. I went through a set of front stock tires every 6k until I did a front end alignment and all was well. If you get the dealer to do an alignment ask him what he will do and compare it to the service Manuel .Its been my experience that most dealers don't have the equipment to do an alignment and are quick to tell you that your Spider is within spec. and that your tire ware is normal and you should rotate them every 6K.

[BajaRon]

I would skip the valve check until 25,000 miles unless you are having an issue ( I think BRP changed to 25k as well) I also like Ron ran a TOYO on the rear as it will run flatter and last longer. The stock rear tends to ware in the center..

I went through a set of front stock tires every 6k until I did a front end alignment and all was well. If you get the dealer top do an alignment ask him what he will do and compare it to the service Manuel..

Unfortunately, more common than it should have been. Seems like BRP has gotten this issue fixed as I don't hear much about it on the newer Spyders. The alignment on the Spyder is a bit sensitive so it needs to be right.

Its been my experience that most dealers don't have the equipment to do an alignment and are quick to tell you that your Spider is within spec. and that your tire ware is normal and you should rotate them every 6K.

True for the 1st part and bull puckie for this advise from some dealers. Unfortunately, you're pretty accurate in this assessment. I think things are improving here as well, though. I'd talk to a service manager and see if they have the recommended stuff to do the alignment correctly.

[wyliec]

Check post #33 here:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ighlight=tires

I know there have been a number of spyderlovers who(m) have switched to other manufacturers and have been happy; but, after reading #33 I myself see no reason to switch.

[Boyd2010RT]

Is anyone using tires that are not uni-directional? - It would be a big plus if the tires could be rotated by just swapping sides.

[Bob Denman]

I'm going to try Bridgestone Potenzas when it comes time for new shoes...

[gypsy_100]

No such luck on BRP extending the valve adjustment interval. The 2012 manual shows the same info -- check first at 6,000 miles and then every 12,000 thereafter. I'm not saying that's what I'll do either, just saying that remains BRP's official position.

[ARtraveler]

The concensus on valve checks is to let them go until 30K or higher. This process adds 6 to 8 hours labor on your repair bill ($600-800).

I am also guessing that some shoddy dealers are charging the price but not doing the work for a quick $800 additional profit.

Do what you feel is right. I did the check on my first 2008 but not on the other two which now have 20K plus miles on them and no problems.

[BajaRon]

Is anyone using tires that are not uni-directional? - It would be a big plus if the tires could be rotated by just swapping sides.

I think some have tried these but I don't recommend it. The biggest single issue that the Spyder rear tire has to deal with is hydroplaning. There isn't much weight back there and it doesn't take much water on the road to get you disconnected (been there/done that).

Unidirectional tires are primarily designed to shed water first and handling other traction duties second. Unless your rear tire is very good at shedding water, you're probably going to be in for a surprise that you're not going to like.

[ARtraveler]

The is very susecptible to hydroplaning--even with the OEM tires.

I had it happen twice--and its very scarry at highway speeds. Now, I try to avoid any standing water, and if I have to drive in it--keeping the speeds below 55 seems to help.

[swrafey2000]

I just put a set of Falken 912E on my 2008 GS.They are unidirectional so the can be rotated on the fronts easily.The only thing I had to do was put a 1/2inch spacer and longer bolts on the front fenders.I got all three tires from the local tire shop for $224 bucks, which was cheaper than on line.

[Sarge707]

I just put a set of Falken 912E on my 2008 GS.They are unidirectional so the can be rotated on the fronts easily.The only thing I had to do was put a 1/2inch spacer and longer bolts on the front fenders.I got all three tires from the local tire shop for $224 bucks, which was cheaper than on line.

Even of their unidirectional wouldn,t you still have to take them off the rims because-
If you are wearing on the inside (Quite normal) and you take the wheels off and swap sides I,m picturing they will still have the worn parts on the insides?

[Boyd2010RT]

The unidirectional issue is not important for rotating tires as it applies to the rear tire; just the fronts. Is hydroplaning as significant an issue for the front tires as it is for the rear?

[NancysToy]

The unidirectional issue is not important for rotating tires as it applies to the rear tire; just the fronts. Is hydroplaning as significant an issue for the front tires as it is for the rear?

It is every bit as significant. When the front hydroplanes, you lose steering control. With the wide tires on the Spyder, and a weight less than 1,000 pounds, you need all the help you can get. I would not mount a non-directional tire, nor one with a hard compound for better wear.

[boborgera]

Even of their unidirectional wouldn,t you still have to take them off the rims because-
If you are wearing on the inside (Quite normal) and you take the wheels off and swap sides I,m picturing they will still have the worn parts on the insides?

They still would have the worn spots on the inside, The tires have to be taken of the rims and rotated.

[Sarge707]

They still would have the worn spots on the inside, The tires have to be taken of the rims and rotated.

So unidirectional tires have no benefit as far as labor goes and are More Dangerous in wet conditions?
Don,t matter to me because I don,t ride in the rain BUT it might be REALLY dangerous to those that Do?

[Bob Denman]

I think it's something that every Spyder owner who's getting ready for new tires should know...
Perhaps they're not "more dangerous"; but they just have different handling characteristics that should be noted...

[RJB]

The conceses seems to be: skip the valve check untill 24k miles; safer to stay with the Kendas; there is probably an alignment issue; and RT shocks are an improvement but the Elka's are even better.

Called the local dealer and he quoted me $800 for the 12k service w/o the valve check; $400 for 3 new Kendas installed; and while they have the bike they will install the Elka's for another $80. When I questioned the premature wear on the inside front tires I got the old song & dance about they all do that but would check the alignment if I insisted.

What do you guys think about the prices, reasonable? Also, which Elka's are you using - the 1-Way or the 1-Way+ (as I rarely have a passanger I'm just doing the fronts).

Thanks for your responses.

BobSled

[Sarge707]

The conceses seems to be: skip the valve check untill 24k miles; safer to stay with the Kendas; there is probably an alignment issue; and RT shocks are an improvement but the Elka's are even better.

Called the local dealer and he quoted me $800 for the 12k service w/o the valve check; Seems a Lot for things you can do yourself in a afternoon? $400 for 3 new Kendas installed; Tire price is $300 so thats not bad. and while they have the bike they will install the Elka's for another $80- Easy to do yourself with a $20 floor jack. When I questioned the premature wear on the inside front tires I got the old song & dance about they all do that but would check the alignment if I insisted.

What do you guys think about the prices, reasonable? Also, which Elka's are you using - the 1-Way or the 1-Way+ (as I rarely have a passanger I'm just doing the fronts).

Thanks for your responses.

BobSled

The More handy you become the More reasonable owning a Spyder will be!

[Questions]

Absolutely; and the More capable you will be at recognizing #$%& from dealers.

Born as a mechanic so skipping valve adjustments makes me cringe - but given Dealer prices, expertise, and integrity I understand.

The More handy you become the More reasonable owning a Spyder will be!