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Water in the gas
So I have a bit of an issue. I inadvertently put gas in the bike that had water in it and now I can't get the bike to crank up at all. Was trying to head out for a ride, didn't have enough gas to make it to the gas station and grabbed the gas can that had flood water in it without knowing it.
I've siphoned out the bad gas, put in fresh gas and added dry gas, but I still can't get my bike to crank over. I've had it on a battery charger, but it just won't budge. It sounds like it wants to start, but it just won't.
Any ideas on how to get it to turn over and stay on? I haven't been able to ride since August, and really could use a spin!
Thanks for the ideas!
Gimpy
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Originally Posted by Gimpy Girl
So I have a bit of an issue. I inadvertently put gas in the bike that had water in it and now I can't get the bike to crank up at all. Was trying to head out for a ride, didn't have enough gas to make it to the gas station and grabbed the gas can that had flood water in it without knowing it.
I've siphoned out the bad gas, put in fresh gas and added dry gas, but I still can't get my bike to crank over. I've had it on a battery charger, but it just won't budge. It sounds like it wants to start, but it just won't.
Any ideas on how to get it to turn over and stay on? I haven't been able to ride since August, and really could use a spin!
Thanks for the ideas!
Gimpy
Don't use anymore dry gas, A shot or two of starting fluid [ether] in the air box usually will get it running till the fresh gas gets into the system.
Last edited by boborgera; 11-28-2011 at 08:36 PM.
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Very Active Member
I hope that you mean it cranks and will just not run. If it will not turn over you could have water in the cylinders. you may have to pull the plugs and clean them, they may be shorted with water.
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Originally Posted by warp10
I hope that you mean it cranks and will just not run. If it will not turn over you could have water in the cylinders. you may have to pull the plugs and clean them, they may be shorted with water.
It starts sometimes for a spit second and dies again. Most of the time it just tries to start but won't start up. Think this weekend will find me getting new plugs and some starter fluid.
Thanks guys!
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by Gimpy Girl
It starts sometimes for a spit second and dies again. Most of the time it just tries to start but won't start up. Think this weekend will find me getting new plugs and some starter fluid.
Thanks guys!
I would put some Sea Foam fuel treatment in the tank. That will not only dry the water but will help clean out the injectors and the rest of the fuel system. Obviously, you're going to have to flush out the bad stuff before it will run at all. Then it may not run that well. Putting non-Ethanol fuel in the tank will also help, once you get the old stuff flushed.
I would go easy on the ether. Too much of that can cause permanent problems. Good luck and tell us how it goes.
Last edited by BajaRon; 11-28-2011 at 08:48 PM.
Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)
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Motorbike Professor
Your post is somewhat confusing. You say the Spyder won't crank over, which has nothing to do with the gas. Then you say it sounds like it wants to start, which indicates it is cranking over but not firing. I am assuming that the starter is spinning it, but it won't fire. With gas that bad, drygas may not help. You may need professional assisance.
With that much water in the fuel, it is unlikely siphoning would remove every drop. The water collects in the bottom of the gas tank, so it may well still be there. The best way to empty the tank is, unfortunately, by removing it and turning it upside down. Big job, maybe best done by your dealer. You could try carefully siphoning again, though. Whatever you siphon out, try to get to the very bottom of the tank. Siphon some fuel from the bottom into a clear glass, and let it sit. If you see water, you have more work to do. You do not need to siphon all the gas to get all the water, but you have to siphon from the very bottom. Putting the front of the Spyder on jackstands or boards might tilt it enough to get the Spyder tilted so the lowest spot is right below the filler cap.
You should also change the fuel filter. Water can plug them, so that no fuel will flow. If all this fails, you may have to pay the dealer to purge and clean the injectors. Small water drops will block the injector ports. This is the last thing to be reached with the fuel, and if the injectors are not flowing, your drygas can't get to the injector to break down the water drop. The injectors need to be cleaned manually in that case.
Sorry for your problem. I'd either dispose of that waterlogged gas ASAP, or label and tag it within an inch of its life, so you don't make this mistake again.
-Scotty
2011 Spyder RTS-SM5 (mine)
2000 BMW R1100RTP, motorized tricycle & 23 vintage bikes
2011 RT-622 trailer, Aspen Sentry popup camper, custom motorcycle trailer to pull behind the Spyder
Mutant Trikes Forever!
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Active Member
Patience
I would siphon out as much liquid as possible, leave the gas cap off, then let the tank dry for a week. My 2 cents.... Good luck.
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Originally Posted by Gimpy Girl
It starts sometimes for a spit second and dies again. Most of the time it just tries to start but won't start up. Think this weekend will find me getting new plugs and some starter fluid.
Thanks guys!
If your going to change the plugs yourself , Be very careful in pulling off the plug wires, They damage very easy, Too easy!! All so don't forget to use heat sink paste on the spark plug threads.
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Why the heat sink paste? - I had never heard of it until seeing it on this site. What function does it serve?
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Originally Posted by Boyd2010RT
Why the heat sink paste? - I had never heard of it until seeing it on this site. What function does it serve?
It disperses heat, And makes removal of the plugs eazy' er among other things.
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Very Active Member
Are you talking about anti-seize?
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Originally Posted by warp10
Are you talking about anti-seize?
NO, ''Most'' anti seize should not be used on Aluminum.
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Heat sink paste is available at Radio Shack - $5 -
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Bad gas and more
Water can be a big problem I don't have a Spyder at this time but I had trouble with my bike cutting off during riding. I checked everything on the bike but the gas. when I was testing my fuel pump I looked at the gas and it was brown. Pulled the tank, drained took pitcock off flushed the tank twice with good gas and put some Heat in it with new gas. new filter and cleaned the Carb.
only to find out that the fuel pump and the relay had burned out. So now I have them on order hope to have in the next week or so. Good luck, hope uoyr riding soon. Oh I had a 1/2 cut of water in my gas at the end.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Originally Posted by warp10
Are you talking about anti-seize?
Do not use Anti-Seize on your spark plug threads. Regardless of how it might or might not affect the aluminum threads, anti-seize will do the exact opposite of what is needed.
In a high performance engine, like our Spyders have, it is somewhat critical (depending on the conditions) and always desirable to wick heat away from the spark plug helping it to maintain a more stable temperature under various conditions. Heat sink paste helps transfer heat from the spark plug to the cylinder head helping to reduce, among other things, pre-ignition.
Anti-seize is an insulator which will inhibit heat transfer between the spark plug and the cylinder head. This is worse than using nothing at all and can allow too much heat to build up in your spark plug.
If you get spark plugs from me I include the correct heat sink paste with your plugs.
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